"edb" wrote:

Hi George,
thanks for great videos of family enjoying the startup.

In the videos it sounds to me that the engine maybe laboring.

This will be so if the Torque Converter/flywheel housing is overfull of oil, If the T/C scavenge pump does not return oil or enough oil back if there was a large T/C leak, back to the trans oil reservoir--the rear case.
Being overfull the flywheel drags in the oil and tends to overheat the housing to ones feel quickly--it acts as a large Horsepower sucker and so heats up.

Two pumps of concern to look at :-
As said above that the engine oil can transfer back into the Trans Oil system if the Trans/steer pump input gear seal has failed or indeed been fitted back to front--the seal lip has to face outwards--contrary to popular belief-- as the cavity behind the seal is connected to the pump suction port so is in a low pressure condition so as any oil leakage past the pumps gear shaft bearings can leak back into the Trans oil suction side of the pump system.
If the seal has failed or is fitted with the lip facing inwards engine oil will be drawn in from the pump drive box.

At this point I would get the machine home and then test the T/C Scavenge pump for correct operation by running the engine at about half RPM's for about 1 minute then back to Low Idle for 1-2 minutes. Stop the engine and carefully and quickly drain the T/C/flywheel housing --if all is well you should only get 1-2 gallons of oil drain from the housing--if more then the T/C Scavenge pump is suspect or if the pump is OK then a large T/C leak is overpowering the scav pump flow ability.

If at the end of the day the T/C needs to come out I will get in early and say to remove the Scav Pump before removing the T/C as many scav pumps have been ruined by the T/C dropping down onto the scav pump drive gear and bending its shaft--also refit the pump after the T/C has been refitted.

Let us know what you find and keep us in the loop as you proceed so we can help.

In the mean time keep a good eye on your engine oil level until you can ensure if it has stabilized or not.

Regards,
Eddie B.

What can be done without removing the torque converter? Can the Trans/steer pump input gear seal be replaced without taking out the Torque Converter?

The Tractor will not be moved for 2 more days and I would really like to try and fix it if it is a pump issue or something that can be fixed without taking the T/C out... Please let me know thank you......

Yes you can remove the pump without touching the converter. Might as well open the pump and check the housings and replace the seal. Its a gear pump.

"Rome wrote:

Yes you can remove the pump without touching the converter. Might as well open the pump and check the housings and replace the seal. Its a gear pump.

Thanks Rome, I see it in my manual... The scavenge pump.... There is according to the manual a screen on the pump that could be clogged....

"Oil level rising in Torque Divider Housing:"
Plugged Scavenge Pump Inlet Screen.
Defective Scavenge Pump
Excessive Internal Leakage in Torque Converter.....

Ok I was referring to the main trans /steering clutch pump.

For the small amount of operating time and the rate of engine oil loss it would seem the problem is bigger than transmission pump seal leakage. There is no front torque divider seal. The crankshaft baffle, thrower and ring is what seals between the two. I would suspect that is where the problem leakage is coming from.

"Old wrote:

For the small amount of operating time and the rate of engine oil loss it would seem the problem is bigger than transmission pump seal leakage. There is no front torque divider seal. The crankshaft baffle, thrower and ring is what seals between the two. I would suspect that is where the problem leakage is coming from.

So that means the Torque Converter is removed, flywheel is removed, and then get to the crank and start there... Crazy if you are right as that means when they replaced the crank they screwed up..... Thanks Old Magnet.... I Think.........

The crankcase breather is plugged up causing excessive pressure which is pushing oil into the torque converter housing?
Around here, rust and mud daubers would plug off the breather.
Not sure what flying creatures you have there?
Seems simple enough to check....

"drujinin" wrote:

The crankcase breather is plugged up causing excessive pressure which is pushing oil into the torque converter housing?
Around here, rust and mud daubers would plug off the breather.
Not sure what flying creatures you have there?
Seems simple enough to check....

In my experience that causes oil to come out the dipstick tube and make quite a mess. But maybe the 9G is sealed up better than what I've been around.

"drujinin" wrote:

The crankcase breather is plugged up causing excessive pressure which is pushing oil into the torque converter housing?
Around here, rust and mud daubers would plug off the breather.
Not sure what flying creatures you have there?
Seems simple enough to check....

Well today we moved Beastie down to the loading area to be picked up Saturday morning... She will be home very very shortly... I went ahead today and took out the filter for the transmission. Needless to say it was beyond clogged... It had a lot of stuff where you couldn't see through the filter.... I didn't mess with the scavenge pump at all as I am waiting until it gets home to start figuring things out.... I will check the breather that is a great idea....

Old magnet I need some parts... My parts booklet doesn't have what I am looking for.. 2 of the 4 cylinders for the ripper are dripping pretty bad and I need to reseal them... I did it on my d7g and was pretty easy with the correct tools...

"Silver" wrote:

In my experience that causes oil to come out the dipstick tube and make quite a mess. But maybe the 9G is sealed up better than what I've been around.

True, if the Dipstick Tube goes down far enough into the oil pan that it is in the oil?