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Stuck In Hawaii D9G Still Wont start!!! Bad Injection Pump????

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4 years 8 months ago #210572 by Rome K/G

If you can't find where the oil is going how would someone find it on their computer?
Don't worry it's nothing large sums of money and brute force can't fix.
Bob

Maybe some of us have "been there done that", engine oil can be pulled into the trans by the trans pump seal on the access drive housing on the engine and torque converter seal leakage.

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4 years 8 months ago #210575 by gvanhouten

Maybe some of us have "been there done that", engine oil can be pulled into the trans by the trans pump seal on the access drive housing on the engine and torque converter seal leakage.



That makes sense... Thank You... It appears meaning my tranny fluid level that it is high.... Is it safe to keep the engine oil up and put her on the lowboy that way or is it something I must do before I break her? I do not want to mess up the power shift transmission... If it is something I can do relatively easy meaning I dont need to yank an engine but I have a feeling to get to the torque converter and transmission the engine needs to come out....

Thanks for the insight nothing is ever easy... The big gain here is she is out of the muddy pit... It would be nice to bring her home this week though....

Let me know what your would do....

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4 years 8 months ago #210590 by Rome K/G
Your going to have to pull the engine before you move it anymore! Ha! just kidding, just keep an eye on the oil and load her up and take her home. The converter can pulled without pulling the engine, may have to pull the cab. Check the trans oil pump, magnetic screen and filters first[when you get it back]. Is that ticking noise from the turbo or the trans pump?

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4 years 8 months ago #210599 by gvanhouten

Your going to have to pull the engine before you move it anymore! Ha! just kidding, just keep an eye on the oil and load her up and take her home. The converter can pulled without pulling the engine, may have to pull the cab. Check the trans oil pump, magnetic screen and filters first[when you get it back]. Is that ticking noise from the turbo or the trans pump?


Rome, that is a good one... you got me.... not sure where that damn ticking is coming from... I believe behind the turbo... I hear it in the muffler side... Might be a bad bearing in the turbo or something... I should take off the turbo before I start her back up. I am certain it is from the turbo... I will post the follow up to that.... thanks Rome......

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4 years 8 months ago #210601 by Old Magnet
Engine oil getting into other systems will eventually turn the oil dark/black if you get some hours on it. Keep an eye on levels and it should not be a problem with your move. The turbo thing is a different matter.

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4 years 8 months ago #210602 by edb
Replied by edb on topic Torque Converter Scavange Pump
Hi George,
thanks for great videos of family enjoying the startup.

In the videos it sounds to me that the engine maybe laboring.

This will be so if the Torque Converter/flywheel housing is overfull of oil, If the T/C scavenge pump does not return oil or enough oil back if there was a large T/C leak, back to the trans oil reservoir--the rear case.
Being overfull the flywheel drags in the oil and tends to overheat the housing to ones feel quickly--it acts as a large Horsepower sucker and so heats up.

Two pumps of concern to look at :-
As said above that the engine oil can transfer back into the Trans Oil system if the Trans/steer pump input gear seal has failed or indeed been fitted back to front--the seal lip has to face outwards--contrary to popular belief-- as the cavity behind the seal is connected to the pump suction port so is in a low pressure condition so as any oil leakage past the pumps gear shaft bearings can leak back into the Trans oil suction side of the pump system.
If the seal has failed or is fitted with the lip facing inwards engine oil will be drawn in from the pump drive box.

At this point I would get the machine home and then test the T/C Scavenge pump for correct operation by running the engine at about half RPM's for about 1 minute then back to Low Idle for 1-2 minutes. Stop the engine and carefully and quickly drain the T/C/flywheel housing --if all is well you should only get 1-2 gallons of oil drain from the housing--if more then the T/C Scavenge pump is suspect or if the pump is OK then a large T/C leak is overpowering the scav pump flow ability.

If at the end of the day the T/C needs to come out I will get in early and say to remove the Scav Pump before removing the T/C as many scav pumps have been ruined by the T/C dropping down onto the scav pump drive gear and bending its shaft--also refit the pump after the T/C has been refitted.

Let us know what you find and keep us in the loop as you proceed so we can help.

In the mean time keep a good eye on your engine oil level until you can ensure if it has stabilized or not.

Regards,
Eddie B.

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4 years 8 months ago #210605 by d9gdon
I had a D7G that was leaking engine oil out of the rear crank seal and transferring it to the transmission via the torque converter.

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4 years 8 months ago #210607 by kittyman1

Your going to have to pull the engine before you move it anymore! Ha! just kidding, just keep an eye on the oil and load her up and take her home. The converter can pulled without pulling the engine, may have to pull the cab. Check the trans oil pump, magnetic screen and filters first[when you get it back]. Is that ticking noise from the turbo or the trans pump?


-ya... i thought there was a clicking....metallic noise too... from the start up video...

Greatest Lie told to mankind: just give us 2 weeks to flatten the curve!

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4 years 8 months ago #210616 by gvanhouten

Engine oil getting into other systems will eventually turn the oil dark/black if you get some hours on it. Keep an eye on levels and it should not be a problem with your move. The turbo thing is a different matter.



I am tomorrow going to remove the 8 bolts and take off the turbo for inspection.... Clearly something to my ear is on the other side and keeps hitting the opposite side of the fins... I looked at the trans oil and it is black like the crank oil. I will get it home to sort that out....

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4 years 8 months ago #210617 by gvanhouten

Hi George,
thanks for great videos of family enjoying the startup.

In the videos it sounds to me that the engine maybe laboring.

This will be so if the Torque Converter/flywheel housing is overfull of oil, If the T/C scavenge pump does not return oil or enough oil back if there was a large T/C leak, back to the trans oil reservoir--the rear case.
Being overfull the flywheel drags in the oil and tends to overheat the housing to ones feel quickly--it acts as a large Horsepower sucker and so heats up.

Two pumps of concern to look at :-
As said above that the engine oil can transfer back into the Trans Oil system if the Trans/steer pump input gear seal has failed or indeed been fitted back to front--the seal lip has to face outwards--contrary to popular belief-- as the cavity behind the seal is connected to the pump suction port so is in a low pressure condition so as any oil leakage past the pumps gear shaft bearings can leak back into the Trans oil suction side of the pump system.
If the seal has failed or is fitted with the lip facing inwards engine oil will be drawn in from the pump drive box.

At this point I would get the machine home and then test the T/C Scavenge pump for correct operation by running the engine at about half RPM's for about 1 minute then back to Low Idle for 1-2 minutes. Stop the engine and carefully and quickly drain the T/C/flywheel housing --if all is well you should only get 1-2 gallons of oil drain from the housing--if more then the T/C Scavenge pump is suspect or if the pump is OK then a large T/C leak is overpowering the scav pump flow ability.

If at the end of the day the T/C needs to come out I will get in early and say to remove the Scav Pump before removing the T/C as many scav pumps have been ruined by the T/C dropping down onto the scav pump drive gear and bending its shaft--also refit the pump after the T/C has been refitted.

Let us know what you find and keep us in the loop as you proceed so we can help.

In the mean time keep a good eye on your engine oil level until you can ensure if it has stabilized or not.

Regards,
Eddie B.


Eddie, thank you for this outline as I will be and I am obsessed with the oil level because at this point I dont want to ruin a good engine.... Stay tuned... Of course nothing in life is easy but the good news is she starts up super easy and just need to sort out the engine oil... Hey I can tell you this for sure.... If the engine needs to come out the damn flywheel will be put on right....

Talk to everyone soon....

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