Welcome Ken!

"Old wrote:

Time to quit flogging this dead horse. Move on to testing compression or leak down. Should have been done long ago.

I have to agree with old magnet here... it should have been done a long long long time ago. Next step is to post the compression readings from each cylinder.... stay tuned....

"kracked1" wrote:

Not hard to weld a quick coupler to a 3/8 fine thread bolt with a hole drilled in it. Any semi decent welder should be able to do it. Or just braze it.

I agree, that would be simple to make. I would braze the qd on. A nut on the top of 1 inch of threads with an o-ring would seal it well enough. Threads would not need to go to the bottom of the glow plug seat.

Hi George,
as a last thing to clear up before doing compression tests

---

relating back to Post #549 by razz,
if fitted, have you bled the indicated bleed screws on the inside of each Injection Pump Body behind the fuel injection line nut--as pictured in the scan below?
From memory the screws can be difficult to get at on the D353 engine without the correct spanner wrench.

If so then fine--if not you are most likely not to get this thing started until the air is removed from this area of the forged body injection pumps--seems maybe not due to no fuel evident, at one time at least, at No1 inj. pump/line.

Apologies if this was done just prior to last start attempt.

Also note:- the Compression test RPM range as shown in the scan posted in post #533 by OM, for the tests to be meaningful a bare minimum of 200+ rpm is needed.
Also 200+ RPM is needed to get this thing to fire off.

Best Regards,
Eddie B.

"Old wrote:

Time to quit flogging this dead horse. Move on to testing compression or leak down. Should have been done long ago.

Except i am guessing , if done earlier with the timing out would have given a false reading .

"edb" wrote:

Hi George,
as a last thing to clear up before doing compression tests

---

relating back to Post #549 by razz,
if fitted, have you bled the indicated bleed screws on the inside of each Injection Pump Body behind the fuel injection line nut--as pictured in the scan below?
From memory the screws can be difficult to get at on the D353 engine without the correct spanner wrench.

If so then fine--if not you are most likely not to get this thing started until the air is removed from this area of the forged body injection pumps--seems maybe not due to no fuel evident, at one time at least, at No1 inj. pump/line.

Apologies if this was done just prior to last start attempt.

Also note:- the Compression test RPM range as shown in the scan posted in post #533 by OM, for the tests to be meaningful a bare minimum of 200+ rpm is needed.
Also 200+ RPM is needed to get this thing to fire off.

Best Regards,
Eddie B.

Eddie,

Thank you for this as I have not seen any bleed screw on the IP or in the picture you are describing.... The only bleed screw I am aware of is the turn wheel located just after the fuel transfer pump... According to the manual you pump it with primer pump until full stream of diesel no air and close it... I went up to the injector nut and opened and closed that as well... Never was aware or saw on my pump a bleed screw...

Can anyone else confirm this on this pump. I even made a video and tore this thing apart and never saw one....

"gvanhouten" wrote:

Eddie,

Thank you for this as I have not seen any bleed screw on the IP or in the picture you are describing.... The only bleed screw I am aware of is the turn wheel located just after the fuel transfer pump... According to the manual you pump it with primer pump until full stream of diesel no air and close it... I went up to the injector nut and opened and closed that as well... Never was aware or saw on my pump a bleed screw...

Can anyone else confirm this on this pump. I even made a video and tore this thing apart and never saw one....

I don't believe my pump is fitted with this bleed screw.... Unless I am blind.... Of course if it is this could be my problem. because the service manual has never mentioned it....

The bleed screws are part of the pumps so the newer style pumps probably don’t have them. They are sort of hidden behind the lines and nuts, but you would have seen them. When they are present, it’s easy to get all the air out.

At this point we keep going over old ground. These pumps do not have bleed screws and led to the discussion about bleeding with the rack shut off which only works if bleeding is done by opening the injector line. Bleeding with the rack on also works in the same manner.

Valve timing needs to be correct for leak down or compression test.

"Old wrote:

At this point we keep going over old ground. These pumps do not have bleed screws and led to the discussion about bleeding with the rack shut off which only works if bleeding is done by opening the injector line. Bleeding with the rack on also works in the same manner.

Valve timing needs to be correct for leak down or compression test.

Thanks Old Magnet.... I would have seem them before.... My only concern and possibly was cleared was the air in line 1 and with the fuel in the on position it was completely dry... My father in law was pumping the new primer pump and nothing was coming out.... I am headed to her to recreate my initial start up that had a bunch of risilone and oil in her and she started on that combo for a brief second....