I went the route of replacing all possibility's of current draw without removing the starter. I believe success. Remade, using soldered copper terminal ends, all my battery cable system including installing a new disconnect switch on the ground wire, (replaces the original cat one mounted on the dash.) With newly charged batteries, start up with a little shot of ether. Starter spun as it hasn't ever before. Also, I have a volt meter installed in place of a Amp meter on the dash and it registered 27+ volts during run and (for the first time ever) registered 27+ volts with the engine shut off. Typically it registers less than 24v. I have moved it back to the shop and am crossing my fingers that tomorrow morning I will get it to fire off first thing.

I've been discussing starting procedure with "restore49". With a d311 with a decompression lever and electric start is rotating the engine in decompression on initial start up a process? Is the decompression even used when you have glow plugs and electric start. I am a little concerned that I am needing to use a bit of ether. In my Allis Chalmers HD6B, prior to purchasing a new (to me) fuel injection pump) ether was the only way to get the old girl to fire up. Now with the proper working pump, I have not used even a wiff of ether and have started it up in 30 degree weather.

Are the old/worn fuel pumps the cause of the poor starting? Are they still available to replace? Is the fuel transfer pump the issue with poor starts? My new fuel pressure gauge runs short of the green, about 2/3 into the red. Never seen it in the green. I really want this machine to be dependable for use on my farm. I like machines to run when I need them, that's why I keep working down the list. One of my next on the list would be to replace the cutting edge on the bucket. Weld in type.
Thanks again for all your help in this process.

Normal fuel pressure is 15 psi. Expect starting problems if you get much below 5 psi.

"Old wrote:

Normal fuel pressure is 15 psi. Expect starting problems if you get much below 5 psi.

What needs replacing to up the pressure?

Pressure loss is usually due to excessive clearances within the pump, a leaking pressure relief valve, or weak spring. Valve seat and pump cover can be resurfaced but not much you can do if gears have worn into the pump body or gear tooth to body clearance is excessive.
The addition of a fuel filter ahead of the pump is recommended.

If you build a spare 42MT gear only is still available G2751PT $21.00.

Good luck getting the drive apart to change gears. Doesn't work at all if you have a sprague type rather than ratchet style clutch on the drive.

The last two are of the starter nose on my inertial starter
The first one is the nose recommended. Do you see an issue with the different offset of the nose cut out?

That drive end housing works on the D2. If it's too close you might have to trim the opening a little. How it all fits kind of depends on what lever housing/starter you use and where you position the solenoid if your doing a 42MT conversion.

Edit:
What does the back side of that housing look like? They are different for the 40MT and 42MT.
The 40MT uses flat gasket sealing, the 42MT uses an o ring.

Think Rehpig just found one - think he will post numbers. 3-293 may be a part #