"Old wrote:

Color for the 0.030" shim is blue (5S8122). That may have been a 0.030 shim that was in there. Check new shim thickness to be sure. If it is a true 0.030" that should be a good fit.

Is the “shim” the same as the copper gasket? It looks like the ones listed in your document are steel. Which ones do I use. Copper or steel

Cat calls it a Gasket - Shim #4f3792 from memory is copper .030?- this was original material in 1953. Bob

Just thinking ahead.
After preinstalling the liners to verify protrusion, is it ok to install the piston in the liner prior to final installation. It seams to me that this would be easier done on the bench compared to installing the liner and then fighting the rings installing them opposite of the way that I remove ( from the bottom up). I have not confirmed that the big end of the rod would go thru the liner hole without the liner.

Piston and rod assemblies can be removed or replaced along with the liner. It's just when they are separated that installation is limited.
The 5S8122 shim is stainless steel and a later application. I seem to recall chatter about being able to fit them over the liner, seems that might be a problem. I would say the ss shim is an improvement over the copper which would be more prone to extrusion.

would it be fair to say Copper is softer than Stainless Steel...perhaps more compressible....

Copper tends to creep under pressure, vibration and heat/cooling cycles.

"rehpig" wrote:

A few pictures from today.
First one is the oil pan/clutch housing. Looks like hell. I have had a difficult time keeping my wet clutch without water mix yuck. I think I finally found where it comes from. When I broke the pan free from the block a good amount of clear water came out. It came from the cavity in the end of the oil pan. Is there supposed to be a gasket there? If you look close at the top of the picture you will see a slight gap the is the interior of the clutch housing. I need to make sure that this is solved prior to reassembly


The next photos are of the one destroyed cylinder stud. I have heated it twice... not really hot. Just propane tank and pb blaster. Not giving any signs of loosening. Recommendations? Cutting torch to heat it. Should I heat the block? Other thought would be to weld a sizable nut toward the face of the block. That always works for rusted broken bolts. I just don’t know about doing that so close to the block.



Next is pictures of the pistons/rings/liners. To my untrained eye.... look brand new. Liners also have x hatching still and no stains

Do you guys have any insite on the stuck head stud and mating issue of the oil pan and clutch housing?

I have a pile of the 5S8122- 8118 stainless - wasted days with cat crossing numbers and trying to get on liners. Cat says numbers correct??? You can have the ### no good for nothing######pieces of ######. I went with copper and will probably be dead before they deform. Bob

Head stud -heating and cooling cycles -Krol penetrant - patience let soak for days - try heating cooling cycles again. Your idea of welding a 1" nut on close to head is good - cook it good and instantly cool with bucket of water or garden hose. Try penetrant and heat cool cycles for days first.

Should be a gasket there 5H5278. This would cover the full face of the clutch housing which would require engine removal to replace. Typical fix would be to get a new gasket and cut to match the pan flange using sealer at the cut joint. Looks to be an oil clutch addition. I looked at the D2 and they don't use a gasket there even with oil clutch.

Correction: The D2 started using the 5H5278 gasket at s/n 5U16128-up.