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933 Traxcavator d311 engine coolant level changes....head drains

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4 years 6 months ago #213524 by ccjersey
Do you have a good stud gripper tool? If you’re getting a good grip on it, I would heat the casting bulge from the water jacket side as well as externally until it breaks loose. Welding on a nut is for when you haven’t got anything to grip. At least for me.
I think I would fit a partial gasket between the pan flange and the clutch housing and use some silicone up at the top after cleaning up all the oil I could so it has a chance to stick.

D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time:D

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4 years 6 months ago #213549 by rehpig
Replied by rehpig on topic update
Thanks again for all the helpful information. It's making this project a joy.
Liner inspected: Number 2 liner needs replacement. looks like water sat at some time and pitted rings about midway down.
I have a new set of rings also ordered.

I have all the parts ordered thru Florin (EXCELENT to work with).

Everything is available with the exception of one gasket (oil pan to bell housing). My brother is an aircraft mechanic and told me about a sealer that is used on aircraft fuel tanks, fuel resistant. (CHEMSEAL B1/2 6oz/3.5oz FILL CS3204B1/ Aircraft Spruce). My intention is to make this one gasket and use that 2 part sealer at the intersection of the oil pan/engine block/bell housing. There was basically no gasket at this location when my pan was removed. Might be tough for the next person to remove the oil pan but that won't be me. :smile:

I will also be making a new pin for the cross over, it's quite worn.

I looked over the bolts missing on the crossover and determined that there are just one missing on each side on the oil pan side of the frame. I may try the weld the nut trick to them but there are a ton of other fasteners including very large loader frame bolts that are all good. We will see on that one topic. I agree with Old Magnet that this would be the time to do it. I hate to not fix something broke.
Will take a week for parts. Cleaning up my shop is in order before new things get here!

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4 years 6 months ago #213550 by rehpig

Do you have a good stud gripper tool? If you’re getting a good grip on it, I would heat the casting bulge from the water jacket side as well as externally until it breaks loose. Welding on a nut is for when you haven’t got anything to grip. At least for me.
I think I would fit a partial gasket between the pan flange and the clutch housing and use some silicone up at the top after cleaning up all the oil I could so it has a chance to stick.


I do have that stud gripper tool. I started one heat cycle this morning and will do another a little later

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4 years 6 months ago #213582 by rehpig
Patience, heat to a touch of red on the casting boss, PB blaster four heat cycles and success. The hardest part was the PATIENCE. Thank you to all the knowledgeable masters of machinery on this site.
Now just the waiting for parts. More patience
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4 years 6 months ago #213633 by rehpig
I have a small seep of hydraulic oil coming out of the drive end/shaft from my hydraulic pump. Is there a replacement seal for this? Is it removable/replaceable?
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4 years 6 months ago #213638 by Old Magnet
I thought you said you had a parts book? Parts book includes pump diagram and parts.

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4 years 6 months ago #213646 by rehpig

I thought you said you had a parts book? Parts book includes pump diagram and parts.


You are correct. I just needed to look closer!!!

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4 years 6 months ago #213863 by rehpig
Replied by rehpig on topic Oil pan pin housing boss
While waiting for parts and cleaning I come to the oil pan boss/pin. The pin is quite worn and I will turn a new one. Bushing in crossover is tight with very minimal wear. The bosses on the oil pan are worn to .022 over the pin size of 1.5”. My question is: How much movement takes place at this location? Does this .022 wear worth bushing out? In your experience is just replacing the pin the extent you would go to?

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4 years 6 months ago #213878 by Old Magnet
Although motion is limited there obviously is some. It would be no small task to line bore and bush the pan bosses. Considering the machine is 60+ years old with 0.022" wear I think I could live with a little slop knowing it will probably outlive me.

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4 years 6 months ago #214040 by rehpig
Replied by rehpig on topic Clutch housing updating
More time on my hands. Dug into the engine clutch. Removed the brake band... new one coming. Removed the clutch and clutch support. Clutch shaft has much wear at top needle bearing. Lower needle bearing replacement ordered. In regard to the clutch shaft. Recommendactions needed. First looking for a replacement Second option would be to turn out worn area and sleeve it. What do you all think.
Also a look at the clutch plate. From my eye zero wear.
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