Here is the parts page for the clutch shaft, yoke. It shows a retainer and spring 5H6022 and 5h7908. Both parts are obsolete. Anyone have a memory of what they are? Looks kind of like a washer and spring. My machine did not have them on it, or the washer 1h7084 (available CAT) on the top of the seal.

At least the spring is available here...
www.machinerytrader.com/parts/search?pag...archtype=starts-with

In thinking ahead to the reinstallation of the cylinder head. What preparation, attention, should be given to the push rods/lifters. Should I remove the covers on the engine side? Or do I simply just insert the rod into each port as it was removed. My concern is if any gunk or trash would have rested down in the ports in the block. Can I access them through the oil pan to clean off? Just worrying ahead of time. Thoughts?

I have reinstalled the clutch and am in the process of installing the clutch brake, cover and linkage. I only have the 933 service manual for the 42a and my machine is 11a. There is a linkage adjustment measurement listed but the newer machines used linkage that was housed in the clutch compartment. Mine is outside the cover (above). Here is a picture from the 42a manual. Does anyone have a dimension for the 11a?
Here is the compartment without the cover.
Here is a picture of the shaft after I turned it down and pressed on a repair sleeve. I wish I would have been able to have a shop spray on some metal but that wasn’t in the cards. My lathe finish isn’t the beast but it’s to tolerance and I think it should work well.

Can't say as I've ever seen a spec for the D311 oil clutch adjustment. May be a special publication out there but I haven't seen it.

"Old wrote:

At least the spring is available here...
www.machinerytrader.com/parts/search?pag...archtype=starts-with

Thank you. Part is being shipped.

Hi Team,
I take it you are asking fro the external linkage length from the operators clutch control lever to the clutch vertical shaft lever.
My take on it would be that the linkage length would be adjusted so that the operators lever worked centrally within the floor plate cutouts--if any were so.
Or, then the length of the linkage adjusted for operators best preference for ease of operation by placement, by adjustment length of said linkage, of the for and aft positions of the operators lever handle.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

Well all back together, having a tough time bleeding fuel but I think I am getting there. I have used the inner tube valve stem over fuel with 5 lbs pressure. I am making progress as I did get a bit of a fire. I am preheating up the engine with the engine heater really well this morning with battery chargers on all last night. I over filled the oil clutch and found it to be a drag on the starter which kept it from turning over as quick as it had in the past. The similarities are what it was like when I tried to start it before when the clutch was Disengaged but the transmission was in gear. I had a milky oil problem, (since fixed with new gaskets on the pony motor cover plate and the oil pan to bell housing gasket.) That created a drag on the engine. It was ok if I started with the transmission in neutral. So at this time I have drained most of the clutch oil out (I used hydraulic fluid, I think the designation was TO 2 oil. Tractor supply. My book calls for 14 quarts.
I have searched this site and looked in the manual and have gotten very different views on what oil to use from SAE 30 to T0TD4 (??) if that is the correct designation from CAT).
Is there a definitive wet clutch oil to use? and definitive quantity to use?
Thanks again for all the help on this machine.
BTW.....I signed up as a member

The TO4 spec is the newest from CAT. Probably the best but also the most expensive. The package contains anti corrosion, anti foam, anti wear additives.

I believe motor oils can be used but question whether they are optimal. The challenges of oil for an engine are quite different from a transmission or wet clutch/brake. The oil clutches were noted for extremely long life and infrequent adjustment with the 30 weight motor oils of the day, so I would say that proves the requirements for the fluid to be used in them is pretty minimal beyond an oily fluid that the pump can circulate through the clutch disk and pressure plate.

My opinion is the cheap “yellow bucket” oils that cost about $30 for 5 gal are probably better than the oils that were spec-ed when these tractors were made. Most of that stuff says it meets JD 20A spec which is an obsolete spec now. the first JD transmission/hydraulic spec was for the New Generation -10 series tractors with wet brakes in the early 1960’s.

Are these cheap oils as good as oils meeting the TO4 spec....... no.......not likely. There’s really no regulation of them to say they even meet the JD20a spec since it’s obsolete. A few states department of consumer protection have restricted the sale of these fluids since there’s really no spec to use to regulate them. If they say they meet some other spec like Caterpillar TO2 or a MIL SPEC, maybe they really do.