"ccjersey" wrote:

The TO4 spec is the newest from CAT. Probably the best but also the most expensive. The package contains anti corrosion, anti foam, anti wear additives.

I believe motor oils can be used but question whether they are optimal. The challenges of oil for an engine are quite different from a transmission or wet clutch/brake. The oil clutches were noted for extremely long life and infrequent adjustment with the 30 weight motor oils of the day, so I would say that proves the requirements for the fluid to be used in them is pretty minimal beyond an oily fluid that the pump can circulate through the clutch disk and pressure plate.

My opinion is the cheap “yellow bucket” oils that cost about $30 for 5 gal are probably better than the oils that were spec-ed when these tractors were made. Most of that stuff says it meets JD 20A spec which is an obsolete spec now. the first JD transmission/hydraulic spec was for the New Generation -10 series tractors with wet brakes in the early 1960’s.

Are these cheap oils as good as oils meeting the TO4 spec....... no.......not likely. There’s really no regulation of them to say they even meet the JD20a spec since it’s obsolete. A few states department of consumer protection have restricted the sale of these fluids since there’s really no spec to use to regulate them. If they say they meet some other spec like Caterpillar TO2 or a MIL SPEC, maybe they really do.

At LA County they had every brand of equipment you could think of domestic and foreign. Guys in the field would get so confused as to which oil to use. This includes all the different hydraulic system oils. to-3, jd 303, ford ???,hygaurd , etc. I only used TRACTOR HYDRAULIC FLUID, Even in the big Allison truck transmissions. Run one oil in everything. I even had the Tractor hydraulic fluid sold by Walmart tested for all aspects. At that time it appeared to be the same oil as Union Oil in every aspect. WE had 190 pieces of heavy equipment maintained from my shop. Never had a problem substituting with Tractor hydraulic oil. Had less problems with fast turning hydraulic pumps on my snow plows.

Removed the starter from my machine after reworking the entire battery cable system. Energized starter with engine set in non combustion and ran starter. Sluggish and intermittent. Starter not properly running. Oh boy what did I find....disaster.....starter trash.
Spent the day researching: Parts to rebuild existing starter. Found a supplier that had ALL parts available to rebuild including armature, field and brushes. Problem with locating the Bendix but mine was in pretty good shape. Cost $460.00 approx. So for you purists out there I have a core and access/knowledge of where to locate to put the starter back to original. BTW....Starter came from/manufactured by Dixie Electrical (TS 1278) and sold to Cat with part number 9H3560. At least that is the information that I obtained today. I have a picture from the company showing my starter. I have a list of part numbers for all the parts that I was to get for the rebuild. Interested......pm me. Including name of person to talk with.

Upon further discussion with restore49 and his amazing research that put me in the HOPEFULLY nice position to obtain a 42mt starter with the proper SAE 1 mount with the proper clock configuration for matching my existing Drive end all as a manufactured unit MINUS the helical gear and drive assembly.
Again, HOPEFULLY, I have a helical gear/drive assembly coming.
Both items should be on my doorstep by Friday.
As it is looking, HOPEFULLY, I will have part numbers for both posted by Friday and a big smile on my face. 24 volt system.
Pictures of my starter/disassembled to follow.
Just a note this starter was reconditioned last fall with approximately 30 starts on it. Look over my photos and give your opinion of whether or not you think that this starter was reconditioned last fall. ( I paid $295.00) I personally think that I was ROYALLY RIPPED OFF.

It’s got good brushes!

Appears to me it may have stuck and overspeed slung the windings out of the armature.

Apparently it wasn’t sealed for a wet clutch.

Be aware that the current helical drive assemblies have a larger diameter drive gear than what is used on the original inertia drive units on the D2.

"Old wrote:

Be aware that the current helical drive assemblies have a larger diameter drive gear than what is used on the original inertia drive units on the D2.

Are you saying that ALL the gears are larger or just the ones on the current assemblies. Can you purchase the gear, that is to be used on the current assembly, in a smaller size? The Gear that was on my inertia unit measures 54.8 mm (it appears to be worn from use) The one on the new drive measures 58.4. I am needing to move over the starter about 2mm to gain clearance. If an appropriate gear was available I would be good to go without any need for modification of the bell housing. That would create, in my case a complete starter, bolt on, without any modifications to the machine. Bear in mind that my machine was fitted from the factory with electric start.

There are no options in size for current helical starter drives but can be found in 11 or 12 tooth arrangements but it makes no difference in fit.
When doing a conversion to a non original direct start tractor this normally is not an issue as the template and drilling already compensates for the larger drive gear.

Well starter is installed and running. With the help of restore49 , I now have a start up procedure that has worked perfectly for the last three starts (without ether). More on that and I will type up a separate post about the starter installation along with all the part numbers that I used to make it work.

I have been having on and off issues with water getting into the coolant system. Ran today and right from the get go the exhaust was whitish as if water was getting into the combustion chambers. I ran some stop leak in the system and also ended up removing the thermostat as nothing was changing. Running after the thermostat was removed looked promising. But still a little white smoke. I did some closer research using someones post reply that you should check the temperature of the exhaust manifold as it exits the cylinder head. Did that and found that cylinder number 3 was 30 degrees cooler that the rest. I removed the injector and re tightened the pre-combustion chamber. Was a bit loose so I gave it a good tighten. (I don't have a torque wrench that goes up to 200 lbs.) I proceeded, after putting back together, to run it on my drive. All of a sudden, large spray of water. Pre-combustion chamber separated and came out of the head. Here is a picture of it.
I will have to order new chambers and have them turned down. Looking for assistance in removing the threaded end still in the head. Has anyone been through this before? When looking closely at the picture with my thumb in it it shows that this crack was my culprit in the pressurized radiator problem. One half of the failure shows carbon deposits and the other side shows the copper from the stop leak.

Edited: Thanks Old Magnet. I will see if I can get my welding head down in the hole. Should work. Thanks for that help. It's quite nice finding the problem, all the while reworking head and replacing one liner and ring set. Machine should be good to go!!!!!

What do you mean by the statement " Does anyone have a replacement precombustion chamber....used part number? "
The chambers you need are a #1S1970 and yes the threads will need to be turned down to 1" - 12 tpi.
Good news is you've found the source of the problem. Seem to recall having to weld a bolt into the remaining chamber section for removal.

If the chamber was really loose in its thread and not just the top section shearing away from the bottom section as it turned you MIGHT get the remaining section loose with a large easy out. Unfortunately most often they are really stuck tight and can be a problem in the rear to get them loose without taking some threads out of the head with it.

If all else fails you may have to drill the remaining piece out to the minor diameter of the thread and pick out the remaining threads out before running a tap through to clean up the threads in the head.