I agree.....only all of them I have are 1/8” pipe

Well today was adjust the clutch day. I have had a problem with the clutch not going over center. I backed off the ring yesterday to the point where I heard a snap over coming from the clutch area. I then tightened the two lock nuts and found that the machine barely moved. I spent today tightening about 1/8 turn at a time.....took four times before I got a result with no slipping in high gear. I have not pushed any load yet but intend to tomorrow. BTW the clutch now does snap over as it should. Not sure what was stuck but its not anymore.
Although I thought that the radiator problem was resolved.....not yet. When I started it this morning with the radiator cap tight, there was an inordinate amount of white smoke. At first I attributed it to being cold. It didn't missfire or stutter, just white smoke. After a warm up time of approximately 5 minutes I thought to loosen the rad cap to "Just Check". The white smoke went away immediately.
One thing that I haven't shared was the black goobering from the exaust pipe.....making a mess. Worse than it was before. This came to mind when I read cjersey reply about checking the exaust ports after removing the manifold. I think I will remove the exaust in the morning and see if I can tell which cylinder is producing all the slop. Is it possible that the slop is a mix of exaust gasses and radiator coolant? May lead me to a sollution. I will also pressurize the radiator a bit and see if I see / hear anything. Ill do that before I go into the pressurizing the cylinders. I did find a rubber tip that will serfice at least to a low pressure degree. I also checked with CAT for the tool/tip that OLD MAGNET posted. It is available for 35$

The black slobber is common to old CAT engines that need some hard work. It’s typically one that has lots of hours not one that’s relatively unworn but it’s also exacerbated by idling and not running up to normal operating temperature.

It looks like oil but it’s usually a mixture of unburned diesel and carbon with maybe a little oil in it. As such I expect any problem with an injector not atomizing fuel properly could contribute as well, but that’s certainly not a requirement to get a bad case of slobber.

Try here...

Happy Easter to you all!!!
Progress is being made. I spent the day friday checking my engine for leaks. I removed the exaust manifold as directed my cjersey. It gave me access to the head to listen for air leaks while pressurizing the cylinders. I removed the injector starting on TDC cylinder 1, inserted about 40 lbs pressure looking for bubbles in the radiator or some signs of hissing or air movement. The only sound came from the oil fill cap. This concerned me until I removed the number 2 cylinder injector and got the same sound. Number two has new liner and rings installed. No other signs from the radiator. I then pressureized the radiator with about 20 lbs pressure. Found a small seepage at the thermostat housing and one radiator hose. No where else including the pressure relief valve....even with 20 lbs. Maybe, as suggested by restore49, I have a pressure relief valve that is not doing its job. I put it all back together and removed the relief valve. I have run it for the past two days. I believe its good. Don't know if I can get a new relief valve, would be nice to have it as I don't really like running with out all the proper parts. What do you all think?

Last issue, starting....
I had my starter overhauled last summer. My batterys (out of my Freightliner Semi) are in excelent shape. I have checked/replaced most of my cables. They warm up hot in attempting to start the engine. And my batteries drain down quickly. Is this cable heating indicative of bad starter?
BTW.....The starter that I have is either a 9H3560 or a 5H764. When it was rebuilt, there was much aprehension from the technichian as to whether or not it would last. Not quite sure why he said that but I appears maybe he was right.

What options do I have for replacements?

"rehpig" wrote:

Happy Easter to you all!!!
Progress is being made. I spent the day friday checking my engine for leaks. I removed the exaust manifold as directed my cjersey. It gave me access to the head to listen for air leaks while pressurizing the cylinders. I removed the injector starting on TDC cylinder 1, inserted about 40 lbs pressure looking for bubbles in the radiator or some signs of hissing or air movement. The only sound came from the oil fill cap. This concerned me until I removed the number 2 cylinder injector and got the same sound. Number two has new liner and rings installed. No other signs from the radiator. I then pressureized the radiator with about 20 lbs pressure. Found a small seepage at the thermostat housing and one radiator hose. No where else including the pressure relief valve....even with 20 lbs. Maybe, as suggested by restore49, I have a pressure relief valve that is not doing its job. I put it all back together and removed the relief valve. I have run it for the past two days. I believe its good. Don't know if I can get a new relief valve, would be nice to have it as I don't really like running with out all the proper parts. What do you all think?

Last issue, starting....
I had my starter overhauled last summer. My batterys (out of my Freightliner Semi) are in excelent shape. I have checked/replaced most of my cables. They warm up hot in attempting to start the engine. And my batteries drain down quickly. Is this cable heating indicative of bad starter?
BTW.....The starter that I have is either a 9H3560 or a 5H764. When it was rebuilt, there was much aprehension from the technichian as to whether or not it would last. Not quite sure why he said that but I appears maybe he was right.

What options do I have for replacements?

- a simple check would hooking up a voltmeter across your battery terminals and see how much your voltage drops during cranking...a huge drop indicates huge amperage draw...and perhaps that technician was correct
-better yet a load test...and you can see exactly how much current it's taking to crank..

Options are limited on starters. Later conversion starters have a larger diameter drive gear requiring offsetting the large hole in the flywheel housing (about 1/16") and possibly the drive end housing mounting holes. The conversion starters (42MT typical) require the solenoid stick out to the side which the loader probably doesn't have clearance.
How much work do you want to do? I have done (one) Delco 42MT D311 conversion installation that allowed the solenoid to be tucked inside the engine side cover. Requires one mounting bolt to come in from the rear of the flywheel housing. Housing would need to be off the the unit along with some minimum grinding to the pony clutch housing and the starter lever housing to make it all work.

Hi Team,
I was sure there was a link to OM's site in the sticky's somewhere on this BB that dumbo here cannot find for you--hopefully some one smarter on confusers than I can find and post it for you.
I was sure I had put the link in my sidebars but, alas no can find there either.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

EDIT--your lucky day--

sites.google.com/site/oldmagcat/

My 933 42MT conversion has the solenoid at 6 o'clock ( iffy to some) ran this way for years. The starter has a boot that should prevent any moisture from the wet clutch fouling the solenoid. Think I may have also drilled a hole in the solenoid housing bottom with a cotter pin just in case. The 42MT is as common as hens teeth at most scrap yards and simple as pie to rebuild. Bob your welcome to my original tested working pressure relief valve shown in post #71.

It's not moisture that is a concern about an upside down solenoid, it's oil accumulation that is an issue.
You will not find original installations with this orientation but that doesn't stop necessity.