I started heating it the other night with the Mapp gas until I got bored (meaning, my wife told me to come in for dinner : ). I'll take another shot at it tomorrow but I have a thinner 20t ram coming which I'm sure will give me more oomph.
I fitted up the new electronic regulator tonight. My old cover doesn't quite match up with the screw holes so I'll tinker with that tomorrow too.

It's a lot cheaper to buy a replacement mechanical regulator, $30 vs. $110 but I'm more interested in trying things like this out. They're at cloversystems.com

More progress - the thinner 20t ram fit between the bolts and popped the sprocket off at 7.5 tons if my math is correct (7500psi and piston area of 2.46 square inches). That means I was not achieving that pressure on my OTC 938 17t push-puller cranking it up with a 24" crescent. That surprised me but it's good to know now. The components might be good for 17t but I can't crank it up that high.
Had to weld nuts onto a couple of the final bolts and one of the sprocket gear cover bolt to get them out but everything else came out ok. Sprocket seal looks ok and the inside of the brake/clutch chamber is full of grease so hopefully all those parts will come apart easy. That said, I'm still going to replace the brake drum and the clutch hub unless they're perfect spline-wise because of how good steering is when those components are brand-new. Seals and bearings unless they're perfect too.
There's no easy way to pull the final from the transmission case because it's not set up for forcing screws or any kind of leverage. I guess they assumed it would just come apart easily. I set a jack between the sprocket gear case and the trans case and that moved it on that side but I'm not sure how I'm going to move the other side. Thinking I might pick up a 5t jack that might be small enough to fit in between a boss on the case and a lug on the pivot shaft boss and push it off that way. Couple of forcing bolt holes would have been nice. Might even install some myself for next time.

Boy it's good to have the right tools, and to not have components rusted and seized up. The right side is just falling apart during disassembly. Removed the inner and outer hubs and sent them to Potato and have my new ones coming from General Gear plus springs and such. All of the inner springs were broken while the outers were intact.
Right side bevel gear shaft bearing rusted and powdery just like the left side. Right side final bearings look worn but not actually damaged except for the inner sprocket shaft race which was stained. The thrust bearing was fully rusty. So, replace all bearings. That will make every bearing in this unit new except for the two steering clutch needle bearings that sit inside that 90 degree actuation arm. They're tight - probably rusty but I've squirted some oil in there and I may get around to them at some stage.
This steering clutch was less rusted than the left side and the lined plates were largely intact but the steel driving plates were toast. The brake band was still intact so that's gone to the local shop to be relined.

The bellows seal surface looks alright and it didn't show any sign of leaking so I'd assume I'm ok to redeploy it?

Making more progress. Both fenders are back on - the holes in the finals that the fenders bolt to were all flogged out. On one side I installed EZ-Loks with a 9/16 coarse external thread and the inner is the OEM 3/8-16. On the right side I installed 9/16 fine bolts instead. I will see which approach holds up. Dash is in. Complication here is that neither the current model oil pressure gauge nor the temp gauge are able to be installed like original, mainly due to the temp gauge. The hole in the firewall lines up with the bottom gauge opening. Normally the oil gauge would go here but because I didn't want to put a tight bend in the bourdon tube, I elected to put the temp gauge there, and ran the tube out across the top of the pony manifold - normally it would skirt down the back of the firewall.
Tank is on after some r-n-r on the mounts which had cracked. Currently working on getting the breather fixed up (see other thread). Right final is done. Also noticed that there is a helpful line across the tank drain valve that shows when it's closed.

















Next step is to bore out the broken blade mounting lug nuts from the track frames, and patch up the frames as best I can - they're really junk but I can't find replacements.

PTO and belt pulley are being installed in order to run it on Norm's rock crusher at the Canandaigua show hopefully. Also, look at the wear on this idler. I'm assuming this is telling me that the rail was running off to one side of it?