"Neil" wrote:

Another question for the knowledgeable. I had the air cleaner painted and there's some overspray on the aluminum label. What's a good way to remove the paint without wrecking the label?



Also, I want to disassemble the main governor control that's mounted on the air cleaner. I can see a keyway but no pin or other retainer. How are the lever and the arm fixed to the shaft? Press fit?

"Neil" wrote:

Some more progress. Very enjoyable when parts are reassembled with new hardware and chased threads, everything lubed and shinied up. Left-side final and brake assembly reinstalled with new bearings, seals, hardware, etc. I used caulk instead of cork, because a) it rhymes, and b) it'll probably seal better. Rolls very smoothly. This side has new clutch hubs and plates from General Gear. The steering lever rebound springs were frozen up so they're all free now and working as expected. Speedi-sleeve on the pivot shaft for the seal, E-Z Loks in the final housing for the fender. Welded a new thread on the gear lever so I fit a new knob.
Tested out the clutch after fitting the left side - very satisfying. The clutch lever has a stop adjustment on it, that I adjusted to limit lever travel to just before the clutch bottoms out on the springs, which I presume is close to what it needs. It has 3" of free play when engaged. Brake works like new. New bellows seal.
I'll put the unrefurbished left track frame on next week so I can turn the tractor around and refurbish the right steering. I'm going to get my guy to make a couple of pins that are a snug but not tight fit in the rails so I can easily put the tracks on and off while I dick around with the track frames. I was excited because I thought I was buying the old-style master pins with the plugs 2F2565 from Blumaq but they turned out to be the regular and current interference fit pins.

I'm assuming I'll need to adjust the rails but of course, the threads on that long bolt and the nut are frozen / rusted / wasted. Don't really want to replace a whole bunch of stuff on this frame if I can find better ones that are all rusted out but may have to. Presumably those bolts are still available?

"Neil" wrote:

Hi Gary,
Speedi-Sleeve is 99293 and it was fairly easy to drive it on. I just needed a fairly close fitting tube so that it didn't damage the sleeve. I buttered the eroded areas up with JB Weld and drove the sleeve on, then cleaned up the "overspray". Seems to have worked ok