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D2-5U13753 - master pins - please check my understanding

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6 years 6 months ago #180086 by neil
Righto sounds good Stephen. Machinerytrader is showing pinions available so I should be good there.
While I have you, what would your thoughts be on whether a short track frame could be extended (maybe add a roller) the requisite six inches for a "long" track frame? The adjuster bolt would need to be longer and I wonder if the blade ram mount holes would be in the same position? Maybe that's a workaround to the lack of long track frames.

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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6 years 6 months ago #180090 by STEPHEN

Righto sounds good Stephen. Machinerytrader is showing pinions available so I should be good there.
While I have you, what would your thoughts be on whether a short track frame could be extended (maybe add a roller) the requisite six inches for a "long" track frame? The adjuster bolt would need to be longer and I wonder if the blade ram mount holes would be in the same position? Maybe that's a workaround to the lack of long track frames.

Neil, don't know much about the long frames. The oem ones might have had a repositioned spring perch to use thge regular spring & bolt. The forward most gusset/plate welded to the bottom of the channels would be more forward to reduce the length of the "horns". It would be an interesting project. Someone here rebuilt their frames not too long ago and might have some valuable input. it would be great to replace the channels and build any way you want.

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6 years 6 months ago #180100 by neil
Thanks Stephen, the rear spring perch is definitely the six inches forward on the long frame vs. the short frame, so presumably the adjuster parts are the same as you mentioned. I'm beginning to think that it wouldn't be terribly hard to make a new set using flat / straight cut pieces rather than trying to make the bends like Cat did. I'd reuse the pivot shaft tube and replace everything else

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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6 years 6 months ago #180126 by neil
Question for the enlightened - the serviceman's manual says to tap the final driven gear hub while tightening the nut when refitting it to the shaft. That fitment is very similar to the sprocket in that it has a similarly sized splined arrangement, and yet the sprocket is to be installed with 15 tons. When I removed this gear, the nut and gear were essentially loose on the shaft - seems like I should reinstall with at least, say 5-8 tons - what do you all think? The hub on the gear is not as thick as that on the sprocket so it would take a lower tonnage, but I'm surprised that the manual says just to tap while tightening (although it also says that doing so will seat the gear securely on the shaft)

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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6 years 6 months ago #180200 by drujinin
Does the shaft have a shoulder or just splines like the sprocket side?
Its early in the morning and I can't visualize.......

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6 years 6 months ago #180202 by dpendzic
you can usually get a high amount of force with just torquing a nut down--we routinely checked the torque each morning on 7/8 bolts to get 15 tons of clamping force--usually ran 600 to 650 ft lbs.

D2, D3, D4, D6, 941B, Cat 15
Hancock Ma and Moriches NY

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6 years 6 months ago #180204 by hfdzl
I looked at my D2 service manual , it gives conflicting specs. ''Tap on the hub as nut is tightened. This will seat the gear securely on the shaft." If you go to front of book, "Final drive gear to shaft press fit- 25 tons"

I made an adapter to fit the end of the sprocket shaft with 1 1/4-12 thread to use the hollow ram piston. Have yet to use this set up. This would seem to put far more tightness on the assembly than "tap the gear" method.

But am still curious to which action is correct.

R2 5E3562 SP U.S.A. W.9151
R2 5E3563 SP U.S.A. W.9152

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6 years 6 months ago #180205 by neil
HFDZL - I didn't think to check there in the front of the book but when I did, mine (Form 30441) says 20t so it's different again :noidea:
Jeff - just splines like the sprocket side but a slightly smaller diameter
Dan - interesting. Given that though, would you recommend the tap-and-turn technique (after all, it is what the manual states) or put it in the press to "something" tons?

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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6 years 6 months ago #180210 by dpendzic
with a press you know exactly the force so that is preferable---but when you don't have one then turn of the nut should work

D2, D3, D4, D6, 941B, Cat 15
Hancock Ma and Moriches NY

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6 years 6 months ago #180212 by neil
I have a hollow ram and a pressure gauge pump so I'd just need to make up an adaptor. I have an adaptor for the sprocket so I'll make one for the driven gear. By the time I'm done with this unit, I will have every adaptor for every pressing requirement : )
Given that I need to also refurbish the other side of the tractor, having all this equipment should make that job go faster / easier :thumb:

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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