I hope that I have posted five pictures of the Eisemann book on impulse starters. The section on impluse starters is 12 pages long. The easiest way to say the difference between the IS5 and the IS 6 is the cover and catch plate. One of the problems I think we have finding the IS6 covers is that they were used only on Caterpillar engines where the IS5 was used on just about everything else. All of the parts that are not involved in the covers are the same between the IS5 and IS6 if you keep the same rotation, lag angle and cut out speed.
As can be seen in the pictures there is a great variety of lag angles that can be had. On the first page it talks about new parts and old parts. The new parts are the forged flange, pawls and drive cup and the old parts are the stamped flange, pawls and drive cup. I will try and take some pictures of the various different parts if I can get over to the shop tonight.
I have a complete NOS IS6 cover with spring with 20367 spring, 20872 cup and 20668 disk. I had a small run of the springs made and have made the disk before but have not made any of the cups.
I know that I have done more to confuse people now, sorry.
Ken

www.acmoc.org/bb/attachment.php?attachmentid=49291&d=1422818990

"drujinin" wrote:

Drive a wedge down into the clamp to break the tension on the shaft, then work the shafts out from it. Remember, they will be keyed so it takes some tapping with a rod and hammer to get those apart.
Actually I assume you are pulling the engine to get the clutch out?
In which case, unhook the clutch pedal so the shaft will pivot freely, pull the engine away, jiggle it up and down as you go. The shaft should pivot enough to let the clutch free.
I know that I have those parts all assembled when I put the engines in, reaching in there to align the throwout bearing stubs into the fork. I've down 3 TENS which means I'm pretty sure I am right.

I would like to get the engine off to send to the shop.
The tractor owner said the clutch was slipping the last time he ran it 25 years ago. So I would like to take the clutch appart to inspect it.

Above photo from Vista CA museum.
So I will need to tap the left.and right clutch support shafts outward from the fork?

"naylorbros" wrote:

I hope that I have posted five pictures of the Eisemann book on impulse starters. The section on impluse starters is 12 pages long. The easiest way to say the difference between the IS5 and the IS 6 is the cover and catch plate. One of the problems I think we have finding the IS6 covers is that they were used only on Caterpillar engines where the IS5 was used on just about everything else. All of the parts that are not involved in the covers are the same between the IS5 and IS6 if you keep the same rotation, lag angle and cut out speed.
As can be seen in the pictures there is a great variety of lag angles that can be had. On the first page it talks about new parts and old parts. The new parts are the forged flange, pawls and drive cup and the old parts are the stamped flange, pawls and drive cup. I will try and take some pictures of the various different parts if I can get over to the shop tonight.
I have a complete NOS IS6 cover with spring with 20367 spring, 20872 cup and 20668 disk. I had a small run of the springs made and have made the disk before but have not made any of the cups.
I know that I have done more to confuse people now, sorry.
Ken

Thanks Ken.

Frank

wedge the clamp where the bolt went through then tap the shaft out.
I still think you can get the engine out without taking it apart. I've taken 4 of them apart just by unhooking the clutch pedal. I'm sure the linkage flops enough to let you do it. At the most I pulled the engine forward, then tilted it after the shaft comes out of the bearing in the flywheel.
Like in the picture you have of the clutch linkage on a transmission
www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?22401-lo...n-of-Vista-CA-museum

Something is holding on to the shaft. Cant get the engine loose from the tranny. Managed to get a gap between the two to slip a penny. Where can I apply leverage w/ pry bars to wiggle the cluthch pac forward. Can I push against the flywheel bolts in side the case?
Was thinking of putting a scissor jack to pish on tab at bottom of tranny case and bear on the flat backside of the oil pan.

If the clutch pedal linkage is unhooked, the yoke should flip forward as the engine pulls away. I'm pretty sure, I push the engine hoist away so the engine wants to pull out, then grab hold of the engine to shake and wiggle it forward. There are a couple of alignment pins on some of the TEN's between the clutch housing and the engine that maybe bind if you have too little or too much lift.
Mainspring is out from underneath? (just checking)

Looking down at the lube hole for the throw out bearing. There is black tar that may have been oil that hardened up.
That could be the cause of the clutch pack not coming off the shaft.
www.acmoc.org/bb/attachment.php?attachmentid=49346&d=1423029555

Sprayed some WD 40. Will wet with laquer thinner this weekend and see if it dissolves it.
Can I unbolt the springs from the flywheel as another way to get the engine off?

Thanks again.

Frank

"drujinin" wrote:

If the clutch pedal linkage is unhooked, the yoke should flip forward as the engine pulls away. I'm pretty sure, I push the engine hoist away so the engine wants to pull out, then grab hold of the engine to shake and wiggle it forward. There are a couple of alignment pins on some of the TEN's between the clutch housing and the engine that maybe bind if you have too little or too much lift.
Mainspring is out from underneath? (just checking)

Mainspring is out from under the engine.
clutch linkage unhooked.

Something is stuck inside?
www.acmoc.org/bb/attachment.php?attachmentid=49346&d=1423029555

Thanks

Frank

I have seen several where the splines are messed up . Take the nuts off and separate to see what you got.