D9GD0N - Well I took one of my burnt up starters and welded a nut on the back end of the shaft and welded the Bendix drive so it would stay locked in, then I hauled it over to the dozer and tried to put it on and realized it had the wrong gear on it after I tried to bolt it up.

So I threw it in the back of the pickup along with my white lab overcoat and dropped the belly pan and dove off into the mud and diesel and turned the engine from the front balancer nut with a socket. Got it done though.

"drujinin" wrote:

D9GD0N - Well I took one of my burnt up starters and welded a nut on the back end of the shaft and welded the Bendix drive so it would stay locked in, then I hauled it over to the dozer and tried to put it on and realized it had the wrong gear on it after I tried to bolt it up.

So I threw it in the back of the pickup along with my white lab overcoat and dropped the belly pan and dove off into the mud and diesel and turned the engine from the front balancer nut with a socket. Got it done though.

Appreciate that advice sounds like you had some fun!!!!


When I put in those old numbers this comes up::::

Pinion 9S9082 Engine Turning Tool fits Caterpillar CAT

Want to use my old starter for mounting and fit in the pinion... Will have to modify and weld of Course... I will look at the front engine balancer nut... If I can figure out how to stiffen the fan belts maybe I can turn the fan clockwise.....Just a thought...

"ccjersey" wrote:

If you have an old starter, you have the basis of a good turning tool!

Remove solenoid and spring to allow manual shift and then motor housing and brush rig to expose armature.

Bolt to flywheel housing, shift drive into mesh with flywheel and turn armature with an oil filter strap wrench. If you want to turn engine backwards you'll have to block the drive in extension and weld it up somehow as it will not turn the engine backward due to the design of the internal clutch.

Good advice and appreciate it... I can't believe they don't sell the tool with the housing... I understand they are old but come on they are not ancient yet at least....

Mine's got the hydraulics driven off the front. Not sure what's behind that flange or on the later tractors.

9S9082 does not fit that engine.
You will need the RH helical drive gear to work on your D9G that has been converted from pony start.

"Misterskill" wrote:

Not easily. Pipe wrench on the front PTO on the engine? getting down and crawling under is going to be a pain by yourself though

Well, he can hire a helper. This sounds like the best solution.

"oldbeek" wrote:

Well, he can hire a helper. This sounds like the best solution.

Yes, not a problem as my father in law has been helping me.

Going to look at compression of cylinders. What should they read? Not sure of the specs on cylinder compression. Just trying to make sure we rule that out....

Cat does not recognize or recommend compression pressures as a test.
That said auto ignition occurs at 500 to 700 deg. F.
To achieve that temperature in a cold engine temperature needs to run much higher, near double auto ignition to overcome the heat sink losses.
To get the temperature required compression pressure would need to be in the 450-475 psi range.
Depending on ambient temperature to start with each psi raises the temperature 2 degrees F.

"Old wrote:

Cat does not recognize or recommend compression pressures as a test.
That said auto ignition occurs at 500 to 700 deg. F.
To achieve that temperature in a cold engine temperature needs to run much higher, near double auto ignition to overcome the heat sink losses.
To get the temperature required compression pressure would need to be in the 450-475 psi range.
Depending on ambient temperature to start with each psi raises the temperature 2 degrees F.

Does that mean they would perform a leak down test instead? There was a heavy equipment mechanic that heard the engine try and start and believes the rings are probably stuck... He suggested taking the air cleaner out and put warm air in using a weed burner connected of course to a propane tank... My father-in-law and I installed the IP back and had timed her. We tried starting her but still the same... He believes there is a lot of air still in the system... So we are going back tomorrow with the idea of bleeding the system again.. We wanted to perform a compression test if she does not start...

We bought some Risilone and I took out the glow plugs and put it down the hole and let it sit for the last day and a half... We will crank her over with the plugs out to avoid hydrolock... Any other suggestions that I could try? I know about pressurizing the gas tank...

Even though CAT does not recognize a Compression Test, you can still do it if you want to.
Nothing wrong with not TOTALLY playing by the Rule Book!
I guess if you feel that it is totally bled out, then maybe check your valve lash again just to validate that it is set with your new Flywheel/TDC starting point?
PS
Weed Burner is a good idea to help it get some hot air