edb wrote:

Hi,
like Phil says lets not get too harsh on yourself as yet and, as a first step of troubleshooting would be to change the Hyd. oil and see where we go from there.


 

Could I have damaged the piston pumps? I do have familiarity with rebuilding that style pump, not for this application, but for a HST trans Ford tractor.  imgur.com/a/KH5gQ  
So I do understand the principle of these types of pumps and could rebuild if neccessary I think.  However, if I had lost a plunger foot, seems like I think I'd know...

But yes, first step will be to drain oil, replace what look to be the original pump return lines, then refill with 10W30 DEO, and go from there.

Hi,
you would know if a slipper had come off as there would be a vibration like one cylinder misfiring in a car engine and no doubt some internal banging in the pump. Loose slippers not so easy to diagnosed I am afraid as a dismantle and de-oil of the slipper ball joint and pulling apart and pushing together to determine any end play.

If you have been warming the unit up a lower engine RPM's all should be fine--most piston/slipper separations I ever dealt on any type of machine were often due to a relief operator flogging the machine at High Idle when cold and not adhering to the stated warm up procedures especially on frosty mornings here down under.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

I can't say I know the proper warm up procedure, but when in winter I would let the machine idle for about 5 minutes and then step up to one third throttle for about a minute, then two thirds for a bit then full. Summer something similar but for not as long. 

My last few vehicles have had a remote starter, no matter what season, I hit the remote starter on my pickup about 10 minutes before I drive anywhere. Just a habit. Have always been paranoid about cold oil since I twisted apart the oil pump hex drive shaft on a 1972 Ford puckup one sub zero morning driving to a physics exam at University. After that incident in my early 20's I've always let engines and transmissions get warmed up a bit before I put them to work.

Hi Team,
I feel I posted this recently as it was scanned recently into my 225 HEX files--no time to go searching back thru this post so here it is again--if I misunderstood your last post then I am sorry.
Scans are from my Green Operator's Guide for the 225 HEX. Form No SEBU5339 and Dated 10/75. There may be a later version or not.
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Eddie B.

edb wrote:

Hi Team,
I feel I posted this recently as it was scanned recently into my 225 HEX files--no time to go searching back thru this post so here it is again--if I misunderstood your last post then I am sorry.
Scans are from my Green Operator's Guide for the 225 HEX. Form No SEBU5339 and Dated 10/75. There may be a later version or not.
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Oops, I guessed I missed these attachments when you posted them earlier. Thanks again.

Also, now that I read them, I don't recall having a working red/green light on the console. I will have to investigate.

Looking to get pricing on this oil from a local distributor.  www.nu-tierbrands.com/wp-content/uploads..._oil_cj-4_sn_pds.pdf

Per Bob Ont's original 10W30 DEO recommendation for the HYD system, wondering if Caterpillar ECF-3, ECF-2, ECF-1A negatively impacts my vintage machine HYD system (HYDO 10)? (I currently use Rotella 14W40 in the 3208 and will continue to do so as all my diesel engines use that to make things easier).  I will also price out ISO46 HYD oil (and probably CAT HYD oil as well...), but I am hoping to not have to drain all the HYD equipment and prime, so thinking the Gulf 10W30 DEO is the way to go?

This CAT liturature recommends 15W40 DEO as a HYDO 10 replacement:  www.petersoncat.com/sites/cat/files/down...at%20HYDO%2010WT.pdf

I found an old flow meter test kit at work, we used to design & build hydraulic machines when I first started here. I have not had a chance to run the model number of the unit yet, but saw that it had a 3000psi gage on it. I'm assuming I need a unit with a 6000psi capacity to be safe?

The system pressure for implement operation is 3600psi. This is the absolute max pressure when digging etc. Lifting the boom up and down should not reach this pressure until you get to the end of the stroke (all the way up or down). If you are careful it would do the job but you risk damaging the test unit. I doubt it would explode or anything like that as they have a safety factor built in.
One thing though the flow meter shows flow so you may need to get it calibrated as the sticker says first. Unless it has an external zeroing screw.

Hi Team,
one older design Cat meter we used was capable of blocking the test flow completely, it had a safety burst disc that should fail at or just above designed maximum pressure--the flow dumps external of the unit and makes a good sized mess--look for a angled bolt on guard and the disc holder should be under there.
I feel a later re-designed unit we had did not block the test flow completely and so was less prone to blowing the safety disc.

Be safe and alert when testing at these pressures as an insecure coupling, damaged hose or equipment can see hoses fly off at human damaging force.especially if the flow enters a bodily orifice apart from the impact of a coupling, hose etc. hitting you.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

I have to move the machine tomorrow, however the HYD tank is only 1/2 full. Is that enough to lift the boom about 12" off the ground and track maybe 50 ft? Really hate to add oil just for this move. Also. If I take out all that straight 30 DEO someday, can that be used in small engines etc, or is it contaminated for use as engine oil now?