"jmvmopar" wrote:

I've used shim stock before to take up the slop, it doesn't always work. I would try a mix of metric and standard sockets to find one that fits best.

The metric socket route occurred to me today too : )

Decided to stop burning any more time and picked up a 1 inch rattle gun from the pawn shop (brand new for 99 clams) and rented a compressor. Turned out or broke all the bolts except one whose head is rounded, and another whose head is rusted away. I'll blow those two off. Six out of the fifteen (one missing) came out ok with the torque set on 2 out of 3.



Next is to split the chains. Both master pins are of the equal size plug in each side version, and both have the inner side plug missing. Is there any chance that I can pound the pins out from the inside with the outside plugs in situ? If not, I'll need to gas axe those out as they're all messed up inside the plug

I tried to pound the master pins out from the inside with the bride bucking the outside with a 6' crow bar - it loosened up on the inside rail segment but it still stuck on the outside rail. I'll get my neighbor to help to see if he has any more horsepower than the Boss has, but he's 90# dripping wet so I'm thinking not... : )
Picked up some more oxygen so will give it another shot tonight. Visited the 5U13221 rear end which has great undercarriage but unfortunately is pre-two-piece clutch shaft so is not long enough.

With the help of my eldest, I got the left side master pin out. Since I was unable to remove the broken-off bolt inside the plug, I blew out the plug with the gas axe. I still had to pound it out though. I cut the end off my 5' crow bar and ground the end flat, then passed it through the other side idler and into the inside of the left side master pin. I had my kid hold the drawbar swing quadrant against the outside rail but it wasn't enough, so I jammed an old cylinder head up against the quadrant too, and that was enough to break the bond between pin and link. Took about 20 hits with the big pounder to get it out.
Next I used the lawnmower to drag the track out of the garage, rolled it up, and used my cheap HF shop crane to move it aside. Then my helper and I removed the track frame which, like everything on this tractor, fought until the end. I put the 12t jack in between the frame and final drive, put some load on it, then wiggle the frame up and down. Took about an hour.... During that process I saw that the frame with rear roller installed would not clear the sprocket sitting on its usual angle. I also noticed that the sprocket was loose, so I spun the nut off by hand and removed the sprocket, put a drain pan under the shaft and finished up for the night. In the morning I saw that the seal had kind of sprung out on one side - hopefully it's not damaged.

The sealing surface on the bellows seal looks ok and about an eighth thick. Is it still serviceable?
Also, the track frame is very wasted from rust. I know I can start welding chunks on to the frame to try to regain some strength but is it worth it? I've put an ad out for a replacement set of frames but with no takers so I'm assuming I'm going to have to make do with these ones until a good parts machine shows up. I have the longer frames congruent with the two-piece clutch shaft - 33 links. The rails are over 100% and I have a good parts machine with 31 link rails and frames - can I acquire two more links to lengthen that 31 link rail suitable for this tractor?

Severe wasting:


Seal popped out:


Dry frame:


Carrier roller pedestal barely holding on:




Master pin 2F2565 - I can reuse this if I can pick up some new plugs 6B5281:


Gas-axed plug 6B5281:


Attempting to remove broken studs. Just about every stud / bolt / nut on this unit is seized:


The 3J's cylinder head is mostly back together. Just waiting on a clean up inside the 3 old chambers, clean up the cylinders with a hone, and a new head gasket. I do have new pistons and liners for this unit but I want to clean up the existing liners and see what it runs like. If it's acceptable, I'd rather get as much use out of the old liners as I can before switching in the new ones. They're no longer manufactured.


Obligatory crack just aft of the idler:


More wasting near the spring seat pocket:




Hopefully the link ID and the frame shaft will clean up ok. The area of the shaft nearest the final assembly is rust-pitted so I'll have to see how close the seal bears near it. If it does, I'll see what size speedi-sleeve over quickmetal will fit:

Is there any particular trick to sliding the final assembly off the pivot shaft and dowels? I've been wiggling the assembly up and down with a jack and it does move on the rear side but the front side near the pivot shaft seems firmly stuck. I removed 13 bolts (one long, rest short) but it seems to be hung up at the front. There is movement between the pivot shaft and the assembly. It's not hung up on the steering clutch or brake.