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Caterpillar Twenty Two electric starter options?

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2 years 1 month ago #239987 by GrantJ
The bar next to the starter access that is welded is an indication of some kind of probably serious problem. The engine must not be bolted properly to the transmission or there has been movement for some reason.. It would be a good idea to investigate. I hope to soon (some day) install a ring gear and starter on my 22. It involves pulling the motor and having a ring gear pressed on to the flywheel. It will be a lot of work but my 22 never starts on less than a half dozen pulls and typically 8 or 10. I have had the mag overhauled and timed, the engine has great compression and I have tried priming and either, I have tried adjusting the main jet with no difference. Once started it runs like a top. Old farmers must have been a lot tougher than this old man.

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2 years 1 month ago #239995 by trainzkid88
it looks like the bolt ear has broken off at some stage and the bell housing has been cut away for some reason so that tag is a bush fix. yes i would be checking if the housing is cut away by having a feel through that inspection cover.

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2 years 1 month ago #240000 by greengiant
the guy who sold me my Twenty-Eight cranked like a mad monkey I thought he would have a heart attack. after i got it i got the book and it said don't crank, or it won't start, just give a pull on the crank. I was always afraid of a kickback (it never did) so I devised my own system. prime the prime caps, full throttle, stand on the blade with my left foot, hold onto the radiator cap with my right hand, and step on the crank like a motorcycle kick start. starts sometimes on first "kick," always by 2nd or 3rd. then quickly turn the throttle to idle. a neat old machine with a great sound.

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2 years 1 month ago #240009 by dpendzic
thats exactly how i started my R2 that had a blade!!

D2, D3, D4, D6, 941B, Cat 15
Hancock Ma and Moriches NY

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2 years 1 month ago #240014 by Ray54
On the subject of kickback, it only needs to happen once to hurt. Today with people being less familiar with mags it is not hard to get it set wrong.


I farmed with a RD 6 and 7 for several years. Several times a year they would kick back. Had the pickup pulled up close to pump fuel in as I cranked on the RD7 on a cold morning. I had the grip I was taught of just my finger tips pulling the crank over the top, thrum up out of the way. The crank pulled back out of my fingers, I stepped back ran it pickup. Still had my left arm sticking out. Crank rapped my knuckles a good one. Not a broken arm but every so often the knuckles will just start to achy. Nothing serious but a good reminder that it does happen and you never know when it will happen. So never take hand crank to carelessly, in can get you.
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2 years 1 month ago #240043 by neil
Grant, if you were to fully choke it, and then do a series of pull-overs until you get flooding, could you count the number? On my cousin's unit, it takes three to flood, and this unit will start on the first or second pull almost every time (sometimes I forget to turn on the mag switch but that's a different issue... : ) If your mag is hot, then I wonder if you're getting adequate priming from the choke? My cousin's Twenty Two is only started once or twice a year and sometimes not at all, and even after sitting all that time, it will start that same way, so they are capable of starting very easily; seems like there still might be something not right with yours, and I suspect the fuel, even though the carb has been refurbed.

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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2 years 1 month ago #240057 by ctsnowfighter
Cranks - "OLD DOBBIN NEVER KICKED LIKE THIS CRITTER"
If I recall correctly, that was in a book on the Model T Fords.

I grew up with a 1927 Ford TT that had a 1923 engine in it. Still used the original commutator and coils. It had a starter - a bent piece of Iron on the front that was used - it did have a 6 v electric starter was not used - that I ever recall. Retard the spark, set the throttle, ensure it was in neutral ( had a 3 speed warford trans behind the planetary so no need for e-brake and ensuring the clutch was disengaged as with most "t's), choke and pull it over a couple times, most often second time it would run.

Dad and I were hauling sacks of walnuts from the orchard to the huller with the "T", I was probably about ten years old then, Dad said you drive! I got behind the wheel got it in gear and was doing fine till he said STOP! I DID - stepped on the brake pedal and killed the engine! ( for those that do not know, the brake pedal tightened a band in the transmission, stopping all movement - including the CRANKSHAFT!) My lessons began - next time you kill it - you CRANK IT! I learned very fast - 1. - use both feet when stopping - (T transmission has 3 pedals and the two on the right side have the same effect - they stop something! without the clutch, it is the engine crankshaft!) 2. When Cranking the engine ensure the spark is retarded and you have proper stance and position of your body and hands!

Since that time, I have "cranked" many engines of many sizes and descriptions. I have a great deal of RESPECT for that bent piece of iron!

A Caterpillar Thirty is a great example of a "LONG THROW CRANK" can you get out of the way of it if you were pushing down on it or kicking it like a motor bike?
It is truly amazing how fast they can come around and "WHACK YOU" with no forgiveness what-so-ever!

Think about something --- all that "explosive power developed in a cylinder" relates to movement. If it is in the wrong direction, is there any less power developed?

Yes - the "old timers" knew, some learned by experience, right or wrong and thanks to them - many of us escaped those lessons.

Sorry for the "old war stories" but my hopes are that each and everyone that wraps their hands around a "crank" or pulls on a "rope" thinks before it is too late.
Follow the proper procedures, stay alert, keep bystanders out of harms way!

Something that Dad always told me - and it really works --- if you are positive problem is fuel, look at ignition - or vice versa.
When the ignition and fuel systems are working properly - engines will run, some even in such poor mechanical condition you wonder how they can function.

CTS
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2 years 1 month ago #240059 by juiceman
Please tell us a story about a rope start tractor please? I know this leads up to your love of D2 pony motors and callused hands from hanging on to the radiator, all whilst laying on the hood...LOL. You may thank me later. JM ***You never tell anyone what the view is like from the front***snicker snicker...

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2 years 1 month ago #240062 by ctsnowfighter
Veiw - see separate topic

JM - view depends upon your height over hood when in the seat as compared to the hood looking down.
In my case, the ground was much closer from the hood.

Sure glad the hood was not waxed and polished like a certain members trucks! It might have needed some special care to remove the fingernail marks through the paint and some super duper detergent too!

"Laughter is the best medicine" --- various answers to a search of whom coined this phrase - but certainly we can all use a large dose of it.
Hope this helps to that end.

"keep 'em crawlin"
cts

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2 years 1 month ago #240074 by greengiant
here's another kickback story just a week old. my D6 R4 pony has been giving me fits. it started fine this spring but won't start at all now despite all the usual (carb clean, new plugs, spark check, full tank of gas). in desperation and worn out from pulling the rope I ran down to Harbor Freight and got a Predator motor, bolted it to the fender, and belted it to the flywheel. I pulled on the rope with my right hand but had my left hand below it. It (the Predator!) kicked back and the rope sliced the skin between my first and 2nd fingers and left my hand bruised and sore. But once i got it running, it did start the pony and the pony ran fine and started the diesel. but i decided that was a Bad Idea and removed the Predator and back to trying to solve the pony start problem.

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