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Caterpillar Twenty Two electric starter options?

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2 years 1 month ago #239881 by kristoff
 
Good morning everyone. I recently became the owner of an old Cat, 1936 Twenty Two, with the intention of using it to do some work on an acre of vacant land I bought. I know this thing is old and should probably be a collectors piece at this point and goto tractor shows, but it runs really well (usually starts within a few hand cranks after sitting) and it can still do work. This is my first piece of heavy equipment ever, I am already super attached to it, I've been fixing a couple leaks and minor things and after it helps me work my land, I want to paint it and get it tip top.

My question is, is there an electric starter (12v preferably) that anyone knows of that can be installed/retro-fitted on this puppy? The hand crank, while very cool is getting old haha. There is a 3 bolt plate on the left hand side of the engine at the bell housing to the transmission. It looks like a spot where a starter could be installed.
 

Thank you!
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2 years 1 month ago #239886 by Skinner
Remove the plate and look inside to see if you have a ring gear for the starter.
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2 years 1 month ago #239900 by kristoff
Well that ends that idea hah, I should have thought to look first. I'm so used to new vehicles having electric starters that I assumed a ring gear was there. Hand cranking it is! 

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2 years 1 month ago #239901 by Rome K/G
Put a skateboard wheel on the starter drive, whulla!. lol

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2 years 1 month ago #239908 by 3J1Bill
This setup works. It is a easy option if you have trouble cranking with the blade in the way. Bill
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2 years 1 month ago #239913 by neil
Does your tractor start on the first or second pull? If not, it might need either a tune-up or fine-tuning your starting procedure. For my cousin's Twenty-Two, the procedure I use is to turn on the fuel and the mag switch, leave the throttle closed and close the choke, pull it over two cylinder's worth of compression, then open the choke and pull to start. Works every time on an unrestored engine and of course is very easy. Pull to start is not a jerk or yank either because the mag has an impulse function, so just steadily pull it over.

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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2 years 1 month ago #239916 by kristoff
I'll have to try that procedure. I've been yanking it upwards to start it. It does seem to start quickly, I was under the assumption that pulling it faster would yield better starting results. The blade does get in the way a little bit causing an awkward position. I will try pulling in a more controlled, easier fashion. The previous owner warned me about back fires and how this thing could break my arm should that happen. So I've been a little terrified of that happening, is that a thing with these?

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2 years 1 month ago #239926 by 3J1Bill
Here is the history. You can go to the 25min. mark and it tells the story. Bill 
Second Thursday Talk, December 2020, Henry Leland - YouTube

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2 years 1 month ago #239933 by kracked1

I'll have to try that procedure. I've been yanking it upwards to start it. It does seem to start quickly, I was under the assumption that pulling it faster would yield better starting results. The blade does get in the way a little bit causing an awkward position. I will try pulling in a more controlled, easier fashion. The previous owner warned me about back fires and how this thing could break my arm should that happen. So I've been a little terrified of that happening, is that a thing with these?
A nice crisp tug up, always up, with your thumb not wrapped around the crank should more than suffice to start it. No need to pull hard enough to dislocate any joints. As stated by Neil, each one has their own quirks and when you find yours it will make a difference.
 

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2 years 1 month ago - 2 years 1 month ago #239935 by trainzkid88
yes the sharp snap idea works well with small engines. but anything with a impulse magneto it doesn't as the impulse generates that effect.

yes they can break your arm but its more likely from the crank handle getting stuck than a back fire. to prevent stuck handles clean the drive end up well with emery cloth and lube it with silicone spray or other dry lubricant such as dry glide etc and keep it clean and lubed don't forget to do the drive dog on the crankshaft pulley as well. also always tie the handle up out the way the get snagged on things if you don't.

the advice works for all crank handles keep em clean and lubed they work properly. I HAVE SEEN CRANK HANDLES GET STUCK ITS NOT FUN ITS BLOODY SCARY AND THEY CAN FLY OFF(most cat ones cant they are captive but they can still jam in place and spin at engine speed)

heres a valuable tip as todays petrol is absolute rubbish and wont keep it's omph for long, so dont fill the tank right up put in the amount of fuel your going to use plus a little spare then drain the fuel system after use bad fuel cuases most hard starting with petrol engines. if your using it every month not a problem your using the fuel quick enough. its also a good idea to use a fuel stabiliser.
and a upper cyl lube such as flash lube to save the valves these old things where made for power kerosene or leaded petrol. if power kero they had 2 fuel tanks a small on for petrol and the main tank for power kero. you started and warmed up on petrol then changed to kerosene.

i would keep it hand crank personally. but bill's idea wouldnt be hard to do. i would add a small solar panel and solar controller to keep the battery topped up have it mounted to the shed roof and a simple cigarette lighter plug to make it easy. the only challenge then is remember to unplug before driving away and hook it up when you park back in the shed.
Last edit: 2 years 1 month ago by trainzkid88. Reason: add more info.
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