I am certainly no expert, but I had what sounds like a similar problem of no power on my D6b. It turned out that the only problem was that moisture had gotten into the governor housing and the fuel metering shaft had rusted slightly and was not moving freely. A little polishing with some emery cloth and it was as good as new. I hope it will be something simple like that for you.

You will always get a fine metal paste on the magnets but large chunks and slivers are a sign of trouble.
Don't think it's an engine problem since the trans can't load it down. If you can hear the engine bark when you stall the hyd's at full throttle start checking the trans pressures. If you can only get one gauge and hose get it rigged up with a 9/16"fine thread STOR Boss fitting to fit the plug on the top of the trans filter. You can check pump pressure there and get a good idea of condition. I suspect it might be staying at initial pressure and not modulating up to full.
Later Bob

Later Bob,
I have question that i want to ask you, I m sure that you re good mechanic, which do you like high track or flat track??? I like Cat D5 96Jseries and it has wide guage. The high tracks are nice and powerful, i notice the Cat D6N engine is smaller but has bigger transmission. Thanks
FarmerD5

Turn around and warm it up and run it through the gears sitting still and then shut it down and off and pull the bottom drain plug out of the Torque.
You should only have about a gallon or so of oil.If more than that it's possibly
the Torque is flooding, which can be a hole new can of worms. Also a other
visual check is pull the floor plate and watch the u-joints with your foot on the brake and put in each gear and raise the throttle from idle to stall and watch to see if the u-joints turn setting still (they should just hold if the clutch packs are holding only turning as the tractor starts to move)
One other thing to check is the hose and clamps below the magnetic screen
(it's just a hose with two clamps or it could be a steel coupling with two
beveled clamps - they were bad about sucking air) Hope that helps find the problem. Al

Farmer D5, they are all good tractors but if you are not in the construction business and need realitivley new machinery you can't beat the older machines. They are simpler and tougher. Fix them right with good parts and they stay fixed. The newer machinery are designed for more operator comfort and manouverability. You have to plan your moves more carefully with older machines but you don't run the undercarrage off them as quickly.
Later Bob

"Al wrote:

Turn around and warm it up and run it through the gears sitting still and then shut it down and off and pull the bottom drain plug out of the Torque.
You should only have about a gallon or so of oil.If more than that it's possibly
the Torque is flooding, which can be a hole new can of worms. Also a other
visual check is pull the floor plate and watch the u-joints with your foot on the brake and put in each gear and raise the throttle from idle to stall and watch to see if the u-joints turn setting still (they should just hold if the clutch packs are holding only turning as the tractor starts to move)
One other thing to check is the hose and clamps below the magnetic screen
(it's just a hose with two clamps or it could be a steel coupling with two
beveled clamps - they were bad about sucking air) Hope that helps find the problem. Al

I don't have the belly pan off yet, but as soon as I do I'll get back to you. Thanks! I'm not seeing any U-joints on this machine from where I can see so far.

PMP, there isn't one, only a flexable coupling between the engine and trans. Torque is in the front of the trans housing and drains back internally. Al's recomendations are excellent for tractors D6C and Up and loaders 977's and 983's that have the torque attached to the engine. You will not hear this many places but I do that test with a 5gal pail under the plug and stall the torque for 1 minute. A cat torque leaks about 2 GPM so if you get more than half a pail you have trouble. I think you have an oil flow or pressure problem. If the torque had a stripped stator spline it would kill the engine at stall.
Later Bob

"bob" wrote:

PMP, there isn't one, only a flexable coupling between the engine and trans. Torque is in the front of the trans housing and drains back internally. Al's recomendations are excellent for tractors D6C and Up and loaders 977's and 983's that have the torque attached to the engine. You will not hear this many places but I do that test with a 5gal pail under the plug and stall the torque for 1 minute. A cat torque leaks about 2 GPM so if you get more than half a pail you have trouble. I think you have an oil flow or pressure problem. If the torque had a stripped stator spline it would kill the engine at stall.
Later Bob

Thanks for the latest info, because I was starting to doubt what I thought i was seeing. I've got a d8h, and a 977h, and a 955h and all the manuals show a different set up than the 955L. When I looked at the shaft going into the torque converter, it keeps spinning, even when tracks stall. Is it supposed to?I tried it again after running the machine about 1/2 mile back to my shop, it lost alot of the power being transmitted to the tracks. When I first started out, it had pretty good power to the tracks. When I got to my shop, I held the middle brake on , wide open throttle, and shifted through the gears, both forward and reverse. Engine made no noticable change in sound.I did notice some oil in the belly pan, and what may have leaked from a hose going to the magnetic strainer. Could I be that lucky? Why would the condition (leaky suction hose) be worse as operating temperature increases.I'm taking the belly pan off this p.m., and see what I can see. Thanks again!

PMP, if it gets worse with higher temp/warms up it's an oil leak or worn out pump. Do you notice the TC temp getting into the red? If it's got a suction line leak you should hear a buzzing sound from the pump.
Later Bob

Actually I didn't see much movement on the temp guage. I do believe it went up a little, but couldn't swear to it. I just got the machine a week or so, and really don't have any history or experience with it. When you say oil leak, were you referring to the magnetic screen hose, or were you talking internally. Are these machines hard to pull the tranny out of. Have you ever went out through the bottom with the tranny? Also when you say pump , what exactly are you referring to. I appologize, but I have very limited experience (none) with a power shift machine. I did rebuild the trans in my D8H , however, it is direct drive.