Would it be easier to pull the final drive off than taking the cab off? I’m just wondering if there will be enough room to take the steering clutch apart inside or if something is stuck in there. I don’t want to pull it apart then find out the whole final drive needs to come off.

Like Bursitis you do't need to removed the final drive for repair your stering cluch you need to removed the fuel tank and the floor inspection plate from the probleme side

You might as well started at the radiator! The steering clutches are in the case in front of the cable control! Thats why you should get a service manual BEFORE attempting to work on these old machines!

it'l be ok. inside the final drive case is bull gear and pinions + bearings. take the drain plug loose drain the final and inspect the oil for chunks of gear teeth. if the tractor was moving and just not steering there is a very high likelihood that the steer clutch is your only problem. the steering clutch is serviceable from above by taking the cover off of the rear case. sometimes the clutches can be free up by putting the plug in the bottom of the case that holds the steer clutch and fill with diesel to let it soak for a few weeks or longer. to RR the final drive you will need to rent a press from your cat dealer or hire a field mechanic to do the press for you.       a suggestion?  ====  just let the tractor down on a block with the sproket free to turn and let your attention to the steer clutch. and when that is done you can turn your attention to the final drive if need be without loss of work done.  with the steering clutch removed you can turn the final by hand to feel any rough spots or locking.

Thanks for joining up!!! take a look at the library and take lots of pics with questions. 

Well since no progress in 2 days we sending this machine to China. I don't know what lead you where you started at the final drive to get to a clutch. But the clutch will never slide out the end. Please get over the fact you went the wrong way. Steering clutches are not hard just big heavy pieces of pig iron, that just barely fit in and out the top where the engineer could of just given us a 1/4 inch more in several places. My hands would not be so chewed up . Sounds like way to nice a tractor to let rust away from a bad start at a repair. Hopefully your looking for a D6 Tractor Chassis Service Manuel. for serial numbers 4R,5R, 8U, and 9U.

We didn't work on the d6 Monday, yesterday, the tank the process of draining the tank begun (found out that the drain plug is clogged and today the drain will be blown out to get the 30 gallons of full out. It seems like the fuel tank might fit out of the door since it has a cab, but on of the hand grips might have to be cut off. I did look at the service manual that Deebo posted (thank you) and it does come out of the floor. (looks tight) This is going to be fun to see how it come out. The thing hasn't gone to China yet. We look at 2 d2 (one parts and the other one needed to be pulled because the pony didn't fire a long with other issues) two weeks before this one and I think they "gong to China before the snow comes" (the seller said they would become steak fork "")

Sure would be a shame to go to all this hard work of pulling the steering clutches, only to find they are at new spec thickness and might have only needed adjusting, or a little more weight behind the tractor when the left steering clutch lever was pulled back.

Stuck steering clutches from sitting around too long is a very common problem, and most times can be fixed simply by dragging something REALLY HEAVY behind the tractor, or tying it to a tree like I did with my RD6, the fact the right side clutch was stuck, and got broken free successfully, suggests to me more time should have been spent on doing the same with the left side.

2 or 3 hours dragging a heavy plow up and down a field, is still a lot quicker, cheaper and easier, than several weeks, or months, or years you will now spend trying to figure how to to pull those clutches and get them back in without any idea of where to start, or the basic tools needed.

Welcome to ACMOC, there are plenty of good folks on here who will pass you the donuts and coffee, and expert opinions, on how to proceed.
Mike

It's a shame you did not have an owners manual or repair book handy before you tore into the D6. I would be lost without one here for some of my junk. They have saved me lots of grief and made life easier for sure. Good luck on getting the tractor running to your satisfaction soon. JM

First, welcome! I look at the bright side in situations like this, consider that the $40 for membership just saved a whole bunch of work, you now know your machine better, and very possibly, a clutch housing full of diesel and/or a large tree could solve the problem. A D6 would be awesome to have, keep at it and you'll get support from here.

We ended up getting to the cover over the steering clutch off. The clutch definitely seems stuck. The handles on the fuel tank ended up coming off. The fuel tank will fit though the cab. There's a lot of fine threaded bolts in there. The fuel tank has a few pin holes in it since it's been seeping a little.

• Mike Meyer, It would have been nice to have it loosen up, we ended up cleaning up one of the fields and that took about 6 hours. There is rust around the steering clutch and case.
• juiceman, It does stink, but the manuals have helped, its going to be fun to get the clutch out next.
• DHC1, Thanks and now its a little late
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