What Bursitis said

mikewood869 wrote:

What ended up happening is the left steering clutch is stuck from what I was reading online.
 

 

 

Unfortunately you have done a lot of work for very little gain as far as the steering clutch goes. Here's the procedure for removing the clutch (assuming it is a dry clutch like the 4R/5R)
1) Turn off the fuel valve under the tank and disconnect the line to the fuel transfer pump.
2) Undo the bolts holding the fuel tank on and remove tank.
3) There are two sheet metal covers over the steering clutches one on each side, Remove the cover on the clutch you need to remove. (You may get a shock when you remove the cover if there is water in there)
4) Remove the brake linkage mechanism. I don't remember if you need to remove the mount from the rear of the case or not. Don't remove the brake band yet.
5) Disconnect the steering clutch yoke connecting rod and nut,
6) Disconnect the grease line that goes to the steering yoke pivot.
7) Remove as many bolts as you can access from the flange next to the bevel gear housing. Do not rotate anything yet.
8 ) In front of the final drive housing is a small cover. Remove it and you may need to rotate the sprocket slightly until you see a bolt. Using a socket with a long extension remove the bolt.
As you have removed the track it may make things easier or harder depending on if you can release the other steering clutch to allow the bevel gear to rotate. If not then you well need to move the entire tractor either forward or backward. Either way does not matter. Do not start the engine to do this. Use a bottle jack on the tracks or something similar.
9) As you turn the sprocket to find the next bolt for removal also remove the one from the bevel flange at the same time. There are 16 bolts in each flange.
10) Once you have the bolts removed then you can remove the steering clutch drum and plate assembly as a unit.
11) Here's where there can be a bit of contention. Some will tell you it OK to use the brake band to lift the steering clutch out and if it was a wet steering clutch then I would agree but if your clutch is a dry type and has had moisture in it then the band could be rusted through or partially through underneath the drum which could be disastrous when lifting it out. At the very least you should rotate the band and inspect it for corrosion before attempting to lift it out. Otherwise remove the band by unbolting the band midway and run a sling around the drum.
12) Once you put a bit of load on the lifitng gear you will need to move the drum away from its mounting flange and the center assembly away from its mounting flange as they both have locating spigots. Once clear the assembly should lift up. Do not attempt to lift it with the steering clutch release yokes but do put a sling around the shaft near the yoke in case it falls out of the drum when lifting it..

I am unfamiliar with the Ford wet brake but the steering clutches are a plate type clutch with 24 plates 12 internal and 12 external. I don't know if the 9U ever had wet clutches or not but I assume it would be similar.

Regards

Phil

Deebo wrote:

Just added the Servicemen’s Reference Book for the D6 to the Technical Library. Hopefully this helps! 


 

Hello Deebo
Could you rename that book to show the models that it applies to?
Also if you type in D6 in the search it shows multiple copies of the same thing for example Caterpillar starting pinion assembly show up 5 times.

Regards

Phil

Hello Tony
I think the manual is mainly aimed at the 8U/9U series but is also usable for the older 4R/5R as they share the same drive train. There is brief mention of 4R/5R's engine being in a separate book but the Serviceman's reference book for the 4R/5R includes information about the engine.

Thanks for looking into the multiple entries.

Regards

Phil

How would you take the drum off and all that? I’m confused. The cab would also have to come off to replace the steering clutch. It would be nice if they made a IT manual for these.

Sorry I did not realize you had a cab on yours.I don't know whether or not the cab needs to come off for the tank removal or if there are some panels that can be removed to give access. Last time I did one I pushed the fuel tank back onto the winch but with a cab that may not be possible.
Take a look at the first manual Tony posted it is the correct one for your model or follow my instruction above once you get access to the fuel tank.