"Crawler wrote:

Since this seems to be problematic in quite a few older Cats and the fact that many of them clear up after hard running under load, I would think that the rings are stuck in their lands due to gummed up fuel & oil. Only after sufficient heat is generated through hard load do the rings break free and start sealing again. D4 Angelo's D2 has this same issue and after working it hard it did quit slobbering, but after hours of light use (idling and parades) it again started slobbering.

Thoughts??

not just old Cats, i think this applies to all Diesel engines..the nature of the beast:love:
your observations are correct!

Diesels are a very efficient engine, so at low RPM, idling, low load, they don't even use enough fuel to maintain engine temp...i like to see at least 180 degrees at all times...

they are a workhorse, and would prefer to be at operating RPM, loaded, and operating temperature...that's their happy place

I have a Caterpillar Service Magazine here dated July 29, 1959 which discusses the running in schedule for new rings, pistons and liners, their recommendation is the first 10 minutes at low idle speed, followed by 15 minutes of half load at 3/4 rated speed, followed by 3 hours of full load, followed by continuous full load if possible, they are very specific in saying do not pamper a rebuilt engine.

I had a Uncle who bought a brand new D4 6U years ago and it slobbered from new, the Cat Dealer Mechanic came out to the farm with some "break in" powder and removed the air cleaner, and with the engine running at around 2/3 speed slowly poured the powder down her throat, apparently it sounds like glass being broken as the motor burns that stuff, anyway, it cleared up the issue, seems the bores were glazed.

My Service Magazine mentions the "break in" powder, and I'll quote the magazine " Some servicemen feel it is necessary to use a break in powder to hasten ring seating. This is no longer recommended for Caterpillar engines. While some maintenance personnel may wish to use break in powder on some engines, the powder should never be used when an engine is equipped with cam shaped pistons. Conscientious attention to the proper running in schedule rather than pampering an engine with long idle periods and light loads will get a reconditioned engine off to a good start by hastening ring seating and minimizing oil consumption."

I'm with the folks suggesting you get that engine hot, and working hard, find the biggest plow it will pull and get out in a field and give her a good flogging for 8 hours, then do it again the next day, that will smarten her up, sitting around idling away is the worse thing for them, if they are not working under load, then shut them down.
Mike

We had a D2 5U that engine was completely overhauled. Dad pampered the D2, and linked to long periods of idling, the D2 started emitting all manner of black oily snotty soot...

We removed the cylinder head, and the bores were glazed so much that it looked like one was looking through a tube of glass... Replaced the rings, as the pistons and sleeves were still 100% OK.

The exhaust manifold was choked in the black tarry-oily stuff. So much so that one could just fit your pinkie finger through the hole on the outlet side! That got sorted quickly: laid the manifold out on a few lumps of firewood and set it alight. Allowed fire to burnt out completely, and buried manifold in dry sand to slow-cool...

Assembled and started the D2, and checked for leaks etc. Pulled a sack over the radiator, hitched the 8ft JD Killifer off-set disc, and gently worked her till the temp gauge was in the operating range, and then full off-set on the disc, and 3 rd gear full throttle for 4 hours.

Slobbering gone!

Over here that scouring powder was an everyday item in every household: Called VIM. What VIM could not clean was not meant to be clean..

I’ve been told that back in the olden days, some would add a couple generous tablespoons of Bon Ami cleanser to the intake side. Never done it here, and the word was don’t use any other brand!
I think it contains Feldspar? Works great in my kitchen sink too.
C$$$: When you mentioned slobbering and idle, the first thought was that was synonymous with Angelo!

-i remember reading an article years ago that stated idling, a cold diesel, slobbering diesel resulted in 3 times the wear than a diesel pulling a load at operating temperature (Cummins)(sorry for the swear word)

- it also said to idle fast enough to warm up and maintain engine temperature (1500 RPM)

-i also wonder why anybody would idle a diesel for extended periods? if you don't have any work for it to do, why did you start it?

Before my time but dad talked of a farmer with a RD 6 and dead pony,it ran 24 hours a day. As this area is not flat I assume he parked on a hill for rainy weather,or other extended times when the tractor was not needed.





Jan 1983 rushing to finish barely seeding. If my memory is not gone,I believe the 17th.Neighbor ran my RD 7 and field cultivator for several hour to finish that as I seeded. I seeded as the rain started, down to less than 5 acres and drill is empty. Just to wet and I had a seed truck and pickup 2 miles from the hard road. One little hill and it was down the canyon to the yard. The seed truck spun out,but here sits the old D7 idling away. Did one of those dumb farmer things,pulled the truck by myself to the top without a problem. Got the pickup to the top then shut the old 7 off. Never so glad to see a slobbing old diesel just idling away.I don't know my friend left it running other than he was a IH man,and you always idled them 5 to 15 minutes or started looking for different heads. It rained almost every day until April that year,did not see that tractor till after tax day in April that year. So was a real joy to see it slobbering away in the rain.

But of course generally not needed with a bit more modern equipment and good batteries. But even today many will not think of shutting off a pony motor start Cat until the are sure they are done for the day. From what I have seen does not shorten the engine life that much:doh: or does that mean if we did not let them idle:lol: a engine overhaul would never be needed?

170 seems low temp at that temp the thermostat is not opening. the thermostat should be a 180 in it factory set. where most of us hobby people can have very good luck with switching to a 195 thermostat to help get them up to operating temp if doing light work. I feel you need to get your temp above 180 to have any hopes of a clean burn. new fancy diesel that run really high compression and 20-40,000 psi range injection with Huey pumps with have problems with the emissions if let ideal as well. all this new DEF and other B.S. dose not to like to run cold either so run them hard or cool them down and shut them off.