Where do i get 1 those testers with handle?

The 9F2689 doesn't exist. Best you can do is make one out of an old chamber.

"ccjersey" wrote:

Just to note..... the coarse thread on the injector body/adapter piece is not designed to tighten up enough not to leak. It will do well enough for testing if everything is clean, but torque the hold down threaded bushing and the coarse threads become just a way for fuel to get into the top of the injector capsule.

I wouldn’t worry too much about the threads except it would be nice if when you remove them, you don’t leave the capsule stuck in the precombustion chamber. Even then I expect you could reach in with a bolt or a tap and screw it into the capsule enough to pull it out.

What is your engine coolant temp running? Running too cool doesn’t help with a slobbering problem.

Runs around 170 degrees

The first video is right at start up. Could put my hand over 2 cylinder and cold exhaust. After about 2 minutes warm up I took the second one. Just reset the valves to 10 thousand hot. Will be re videoing in a few minutes. Put new carrier and valve body in number cylinder. Could not develop a spray pattern over the tracks the just installed it

This video is after I reset the valves to 10 thousand hot

Is it possible that this could be caused by adjusting the valves without a precise alignment of the indicator on the flywheel, for TDC? When I did the head I put some white paint indicator lines on the crank pulley.

You would have to be off quite a ways. When adjusting the valve clearances on each individual cylinder in turn, there’s plenty of room for error and a small mistake positioning the crankshaft/flywheel won’t make any difference.

However it appears that you might have helped #2 while screwing up #1. I would go back and check your marks by watching for the valve rockers “rocking over” at TDC of EXHAUST stroke. You’ll see that the exhaust valve closes and the intake opens as you turn the engine past the TDC mark. If you see the rocking action doesn’t correspond with the mark passing the pointer, possibly you need to make a new set of temporary marks to allow you to set the valves properly.

When one cylinder of a pair (1&4, 2&3) is at TDC exhaust stroke, the other one is on TDC compression stroke, so you can even just watch for a cylinder”s valves rocking over and when you see it, stop and adjust the valve clearance on the other cylinder of that pair. It’ll be accurate enough to get the valves set properly if you stop as soon as you see the intake valve begin to open.

Hi Team,
it is not unknown for the flywheels on these early engines to be fitted incorrectly or NOT having the the TDC marks correspond to the actual piston position due to the flywheel to crank bolt pattern having equally spaced holes.
Later design engines have one staggered bolt hole to stop this occurring.

As CCJ says above simply turn the engine in its correct direction of rotation until you see a pair of valves moving together --Exhaust closing, Inlet opening--this will be close enough to TDC to accurately adjust the opposite cylinders valves--IE-- No 1 rocking, adjust No 4, and No 2 rocking, adjust No 3 and so on.
I also like to use a feeler gauge strip that is narrower than the diameter of the valve stem as the valve end usually wears a spot/divot into the actuating face of the rocker end pad-- the narrow feeler strip helps get more accurate setting as the strip is not bowed over the stem and into the wear spot and so giving an inacurate setting that is larger than the strip thickness--refacing/radiusing the rocker pads is a part of engine overhaul on an attachment on the Valve Facing machine at The Dealer--often did it with on a hone stone or if bad by hand on a fine grinding wheel being careful to follow the radius with a steady hand and accurate eye.

Maybe also check that the non-adjustable Inlet valve De-compression mechanism clearance to the Inlet valve rocker is around 0.125"--if it has little or no clearance on any one rocker arm then you likely have a pocketed in valve that would result in low compression on that cylinder.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

This may not be your problem, but to relate my experience : I bought a D6 that had been used as a dozer. It slobbered so bad I thought all the gaskets on top of the motor were bad , replace all seals, gaskets etc, cleaned it, painted it then pulled a disc with it. Black crap running down my nice paint and blowing all over me. It took more than a few hours ( 6 or more) pulling a multi gang disc under a good load for the barfing to stop. Once it did stop, it never came back.

Without a constant load ( the disc) I doubt it would have ever cleaned up. Just 2 cents in case injectors don’t fix it.

Since this seems to be problematic in quite a few older Cats and the fact that many of them clear up after hard running under load, I would think that the rings are stuck in their lands due to gummed up fuel & oil. Only after sufficient heat is generated through hard load do the rings break free and start sealing again. D4 Angelo's D2 has this same issue and after working it hard it did quit slobbering, but after hours of light use (idling and parades) it again started slobbering.

Thoughts??