That's the style that needs to go with the pressure gauge. Have a look at my relic thread and Eddie & Rome explain it. Basically if the water pressure gauge i have is in the blue then the dozer can run in the blue zone of the temp guage, same with the yellow zone of the water pressure matches the yellow zone of the temp guage.

The water pressure gauge sender plugs into the top of the radiator. Mine isn't connected as it isn't applicable to my temp gauge and just fills the hole in the dash, I have some pictures in my other thread.

www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?29992-Re...old-relic-D9G/page10

"Misterskill" wrote:

That's the style that needs to go with the pressure gauge. Have a look at my relic thread and Eddie & Rome explain it. Basically if the water pressure gauge i have is in the blue then the dozer can run in the blue zone of the temp guage, same with the yellow zone of the water pressure matches the yellow zone of the temp guage.

The water pressure gauge sender plugs into the top of the radiator. Mine isn't connected as it isn't applicable to my temp gauge and just fills the hole in the dash, I have some pictures in my other thread.

www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?29992-Re...old-relic-D9G/page10

Thanks for the link to review...The gauge that I took out did not look like the one I bought from cat... I believe the one I pulled out was aftermarket and I din not like that for temp...

A little confusing but I will figure it out. I know that it was good before the old girl overheated which she never has and I will never allow that to happen....Appreciate it...

"Misterskill" wrote:

That's the style that needs to go with the pressure gauge. Have a look at my relic thread and Eddie & Rome explain it. Basically if the water pressure gauge i have is in the blue then the dozer can run in the blue zone of the temp guage, same with the yellow zone of the water pressure matches the yellow zone of the temp guage.

The water pressure gauge sender plugs into the top of the radiator. Mine isn't connected as it isn't applicable to my temp gauge and just fills the hole in the dash, I have some pictures in my other thread.

www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?29992-Re...old-relic-D9G/page10

Just went over your post.... Clearly we have been working on the same big girl and trust me I know your pain... My wife says she is going to let me marry her...I am in the same boat went through the whole dam dozer and replaced all the fluids except final drives... That will be next... Yours seems a little older... Mine is a 1970... I finally got her not to leak which I am beyond happy... Did all the cylinders repacked ect. lip seals, rocker box seals, and the list goes on and on... That radiator was beyond caked up with mud... My oil cooler seemed pretty clogged for my liking... I will install the pressure gauge for my rig as living in Hawaii I need to keep her cool... Good tip from Rome on shifting in your thread...

Hi Team,
if you have either one of the old style water temp. or pressure gauges and not both that work then the water pressure gauge should be removed and the dash aperture plugged and only use the very latest style water Temperature gauge that is used on its own should be used or the confusion you have is the result.
Scan below gives a description of the INTENDED use of now superseded system using both a working temperature and pressure gauge in tandem.
Description is for the old style gauges that caused more confusion than they were worth so Cat removed them from their product Line and went back to the simple single temperature gauge system.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

"edb" wrote:

Hi Team,
if you have either one of the old style water temp. or pressure gauges and not both that work then the water pressure gauge should be removed and the dash aperture plugged and only use the very latest style water Temperature gauge that is used on its own should be used or the confusion you have is the result.
Scan below gives a description of the INTENDED use of now superseded system using both a working temperature and pressure gauge in tandem.
Description is for the old style gauges that caused more confusion than they were worth so Cat removed them from their product Line and went back to the simple single temperature gauge system.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Eddie, thank you for posting this.... I ordered a new temp gauge from my dealer here in Hawaii Hawthorne, and boy oh boy I fell into that one... As we can see though my oil cooler needed some serious attention either way... Would you recommend I go back to the simple temp gauge? Its pretty easy after I looked at it... The other thing I like it will tell you when you have a weak or bad water pump....

Hi George,
I fully recommend that you go with the new style single gauge system--keep it simple comes to mind.
Put the old colour graded Temp. gauge up on the wall as a souvenir.

The old two gauge system had lots of issues like the pressure gauge capillary tube would block with crud from a dirty system and so give incorrect readings which then cause the operator to miss read his Temp. gauge and risk cooking the engine.
Best thing ever is to stay well clear of what seemed a good idea at the time but due to operator error and issues like above the system was doomed to failure.
Oil coolers are about the first things to get cooled coolant for cooling the engine, transmission etc. and so could be thought of as first stage coolant screen in a dirty system.
Keep it it Mate and you will eventually triumph over metal.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

"Rome wrote:

Good! some large tractors had a sand blast deflector on the inside to protect the fins from abrasives, yours may not have one, but yes the cores are on an angle or you have to look through on an angle to see through. Yea once that crap has been stuck and packed in the fins its a %$@# to get out, I always keep them cleaned out regularly.

"edb" wrote:

Hi George,
I fully recommend that you go with the new style single gauge system--keep it simple comes to mind.
Put the old colour graded Temp. gauge up on the wall as a souvenir.

The old two gauge system had lots of issues like the pressure gauge capillary tube would block with crud from a dirty system and so give incorrect readings which then cause the operator to miss read his Temp. gauge and risk cooking the engine.
Best thing ever is to stay well clear of what seemed a good idea at the time but due to operator error and issues like above the system was doomed to failure.
Oil coolers are about the first things to get cooled coolant for cooling the engine, transmission etc. and so could be thought of as first stage coolant screen in a dirty system.
Keep it it Mate and you will eventually triumph over metal.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

Thanks again Eddie, I appreciate you taking the time....I was at my cat dealer today and ordered up my gaskets to put back together my oil cooler ect... I asked them to look up an appropriate single gauge for water temp and all they went by was my serial number and could not find another gauge... Go figure... So I ordered the water pressure gauge off of eBay an original old stock Cat... Now after reading your response I am taking your advice and ditching both gauges and going simple... Do you have the part number for what should go in my machine???? Thanks for helping keep my D9G Alive by not cooking her.... What did you think of my oil cooler... Looked pretty bad to me but it was the first one I opened up... Now this engine was gone through but I don't know when... Fortunate for me the guy used anti seize on the bolts or some of them....

"edb" wrote:

Hi George,
I fully recommend that you go with the new style single gauge system--keep it simple comes to mind.
Put the old colour graded Temp. gauge up on the wall as a souvenir.

The old two gauge system had lots of issues like the pressure gauge capillary tube would block with crud from a dirty system and so give incorrect readings which then cause the operator to miss read his Temp. gauge and risk cooking the engine.
Best thing ever is to stay well clear of what seemed a good idea at the time but due to operator error and issues like above the system was doomed to failure.
Oil coolers are about the first things to get cooled coolant for cooling the engine, transmission etc. and so could be thought of as first stage coolant screen in a dirty system.
Keep it it Mate and you will eventually triumph over metal.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

Any idea of coolant gauge for my d9g that doesn't use the water pressure gauge???? I bought the new one from cat they are clueless as to what other one to put in as it calls for the one with the pressure gauge....

Thanks

There should be two separate gauges, water pressure and water temp. Never had a problem with them.

Hi Team,
a list of Cat gauges from the Cat One Safe Source. Be aware that these numbers may supersede by now, the Dealer should be able to confirm this and if so supply a unit with the correct capillary tube length.

George,
I agree with Rome K/G in that the two gauge system takes out any guess work for a machine in heavy production work, BUT, certainly at our Dealership we found that, as I said above, the pressure gauge was the weak link in poorly maintained cooling systems and tended to block the capillary tube with crud and so incorrect readings were calculated by the operator--based on the colour code sections of the gauges.
We always recommended the single gauge.
As per the scan below for the D9H--1W5170-- I believe as it is now too long ago now to be sure on my part. Also I was under the impression that the two gauge units were superseded--Rome K/G has indicated otherwise and thus I stand corrected.
As I do not have access to a Numerical Parts Record I cannot define the latest Part Number for a gauge to fit your unit.

You have a choice of sticking with the problematic 2 gauge system or going to the single gauge as per the O.S.S. Gauge list.
Cheers,
Eddie B.