No PITA Bernie, lol we get this figured out.

Will all sincerity, thanks again. I appreciate the interest from many, but you and Edb kept digging!

I'll set a puller up today and see if I can 'shake this sticky booger'! Truthfully, I was considering just eating it, and that's in the COVID-19 environment, to let you know how ready I am to move on! I'm sure that plug is in there tight, hoping the threads in there are strong.

Not sure how that housing can work on my machine with my hour meter being attached to my Fuel Filter Housing....

Thanks again-have fun,
Bernie

I've been following along with your posts about your pump housing. I'm not sure what your serial number is but I know somewhere in the 2t run there were a lot of changes. I have a late 2t that is a close match to my 5t. I think edb is on the right track with the earlier model parts book. I have a 2t pump disassembled that I can get pictures of if it will help.

Hi d2Gary,
Likewise on your rebuild-cool stuff for the next guy contemplating a ground up dozer build. Quoting Joe Dirt, "keep on keep'n on!".

Anyway, I try to pick up manuals that may run close to my 2T. That said I have a 5T-1 to 5T-7411. I've never checked how many of those were manufactured. That book does not show (that I can find) a call out for the 8B4967 O-Ring around the 9B1332 plug, but my 2T book (2T1-2T&up) shows a separate detail of the housing assembly inside in exploded view.

I appreciate the interest-I read on your pinion removal and found several items in there very helpful. Sometimes the best help I receive on this board is 'where NOT to go...'.

Have fun!
Bernie

"bernie" wrote:

Man! I have been a PITA on this one, but could not rectify what I was seeing. I did not see Eddies post until after I last posted.

I'm wondering now if when the block was repaired the fuel housing was replaced. If you recall the lower two nuts on the housing that lie against the block were missing. The hour meter assembly is odd too. Need to take another look at that also.

Any expectation that the governor is a changeout too? Or does the D42T governor match up with the 4G housing? Also, is the 25P535 stamp on the housing consistent with the 2T and 4G?

I appreciate the help-you guys are sharp and tenacious.

Have Fun-
Bernie

25Pxxxx housing/pump is not for a tractor/vehicular application. Need to be looking at Industrial or Marine Engine. Unfortunately I don't seem to have any parts books for the early Industrial D4400.
The 4G, 7J1-5103 uses a 7Pxxxx pump
7J5104-up, 2T-up and 5T-up use either a 19Pxxxx or 22Pxxxx pump

Hi Team,
the gov. weights on the 4G D4 are mounted on the front end of the Inj. pump (Accessory) drive shaft inside the timing gear case and not on the rear of the Inj. pump itself. the Gov. spring and control are on the rear face of the Inj. pump housing.

The hour meter on the 4G D4 is driven from the rear end of the Inj. pump camshaft and so is mounted on the rear of the Inj. pump below the above mentioned control assembly and its housing.

I believe I used a stud and socket to attempt to pull the one I recall doing--likely someone else used another engine application pump too as I mentioned in a previous thread on this subject where I also alluded to the fact that this may be an Industrial or other application Inj. Pump just as OM has reiterated above.

Odd things are done in the field to keep these things going as cheaply as possible and so what you can have in front of you may well not be what the P/B shows, your current setup has worked in the past so either just run with it or change it out for a more correct unit if you feel the need to do so--yes, it can be frustrating trying to order parts for a non-standard unit.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

Hi OM! Thanks for the helpful info:

Well, little embarrassing I did not look closer to Eddies post for the housing serial number and put two and two together.

I worked on that plug most of the day with no luck. Attempted the slide hammer early on, but just for a short time-seemed abusive on the housing considering the pumps are still in and the governor assembly was getting bounced around, even with a shop towel stuffed inside to absorb the shock. I put together a pretty effective puller, but kept breaking bolts-if that is a plug like the 4G shows, that sucker is in there-tighter I think than the steering hanging clutch shafts. I didn't have grade 8 bolts, which I think will help considerably to walk that plug out.

The threaded hole has to be for a plug up in there, and based on what I am seeing, it must be the small one similar to the one in the earlier machine EDB notes.

I don't have a parts manual, but I do have the SRB for the D4400 and the picture of the housing, looks like mine. I also have the Operators Instructions for the "Diesel D4400 Power Unit" form 8848. The photo shows the throttle mounted to the top of the housing, which I am not sure I see capability on my housing-hard to tell though.

I need to start scrounging around for the Marine Set and Power Unit Parts Books.

Have Fun-Bernie

Hi Eddie-I'm ok with the after fit for whatever reason. My machine ran well-the only issue I had with the governor / fuel transfer was adjustment to the governor to make it shut down simply by pushing forward on the throttle from the operators seat.

Hi All,
Below are photos of the rear of the housing.....this is the "plug hole" I have been working on. It not threaded for about a 1/4" then the threads take over. Looking over it again, it looks like that is a milled hole and will not slide out from the rear. I mentioned on other post that I tapped lightly on a threaded bolt thinking that maybe the plug may need pushed out form the front and through the fuel chamber. If so, the threads would serve a purpose to push rather than pull. It is pretty solid when I tap it toward the front and nothing moves when I pull it. I've found Marine Parts books to buy, but in meantime if anyone has a photo of a parts book to share of the 25P353 housing, it might tell the story.



Puller set up:

Hi bernie,
seems to me if you removed the outer plug and seal then the threads would be part of the main housing and if they go thru to the fuel gallery it indicates that a long threaded bolt could be used to force the outer plug out via the fuel galley--easy to say now that we can see the threads.

Other than that I have missed the point and so not understand what you are trying to achieve--if the inner threads do not go thru to the fuel gallery--if they do then they would likely be utilized to push the outer plug out.

As a starting point for Shut off problem I would begin externally at the operators station Stop lever with the adjustment of the linkage rod length to get the lever back in to its effective operating range.
I stand to be corrected.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

"edb" wrote:

Hi bernie,
seems to me if you removed the outer plug and seal then the threads would be part of the main housing and if they go thru to the fuel gallery it indicates that a long threaded bolt could be used to force the outer plug out via the fuel galley--easy to say now that we can see the threads.

Other than that I have missed the point and so not understand what you are trying to achieve--if the inner threads do not go thru to the fuel gallery--if they do then they would likely be utilized to push the outer plug out.

As a starting point for Shut off problem I would begin externally at the operators station Stop lever with the adjustment of the linkage rod length to get the lever back in to its effective operating range.
I stand to be corrected.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Looking into the fuel galley from the front is solid at the end and no threads come through it from the rear. I've removed no plug from either side. I'll get my hands on a parts book....

It seems that if the plug is there and is threaded, the only way to remove it is to drive it down the fuel gallery using a 5/16" bolt with those threads holding it.

I'm hesitant tapping or driving a bolt threaded into the hole too hard, but that is appearing to be the only direction I see it coming out.

Does it look to you that the recessed hole on the rear of the housing in the pictures looks milled into the block and the face of it not a plug but just the milled face of the fuel housing block.?

With all the gentle force I have put on that threaded whatever it is while bulling back on it, I think something would have moved by now.

I run the risk...or maybe arrived...at fatiguing everyone on this, but I in it now.
Bernie