"Old wrote:

The sleeve and seal assy is a Cat part #5S6297. Seal only is a 5S9022.

Thank you so much! This helps out greatly. I have an entire list of part numbers I need to order. My plan for this project is "get the engine installed" then worry about the auxiliaries. The turbo will get rebuilt, the radiator I have a quote for, etc

"ccjersey" wrote:

If you’re going to make a puller, for sure buy a fine thread screw and nuts instead of coarse. I used what I had on hand and it limits the force I can develop.
McMaster Carr should have all-thread rod if you can’t find it somewhere else.

Crankshaft wear rings aren’t a typical speedy sleeve application to salvage an unserviceable part. Instead it’s a designed renewal feature to allow engine overhaul to like new tolerances. That’s why they can be so thick.

Good call on the fine thread. Like I said, I'm going to see if my CAT buddy has the right tools (hes an old school CAT guy) but will make it if not.

I've used speedy sleeves before to good effect - the one on the engine is like 1/16th of an inch thick, limiting the ability for the clutch housing to go over it. One of three things needs to happen - remove the speedy sleeve and install a new thinner one with new seal, remove speedy sleeve revealing a clean crank surface, or get the clutch housing machine for a larger ID to allow it to move over the crank speedy sleeve.

-Will

Good news - Parts have started to be swapped over and new parts have been ordered. The only "difficult" part will be swapping the IP, but otherwise it should be good.

My only question is what to do with the oil cooler lines for the transmission? I am losing that capability with this block - can I just run it to some sort of external cooler like a tractor?

-Will

Unless you’re running in the depths of winter, an air cooler should be fine. However one thing I see pretty commonly is a heat exchanger in the bottom tank of the radiator. Seems it would be a fairly simple thing for a competent shop to add to a tank and check the condition of the radiator core at the same time. This is the typical system used on all automobiles and trucks with automatic transmission.

Does your old engine have good heat exchanger cores? I might be able to use a good one for my 922 wheel loader. I’m expecting a parts book any day now so I’ll soon have a part number to compare. Mine has a replacement industrial engine that has the place for the transmission cooler but no core in it. The line is simply looped back to the transmission as it was when the previous owner had installed a Perkins in it.

I probably won’t ever run mine hard enough to need a cooler and if I do, I could add an air cooler cause my winter climate is much milder than yours.

Quick update - I've been making some progress but have come to a crossroads. Any of you CAT wizards out there know this - Is it possible to take the entire rotating assembly out of the genset block and put it into the Traxcavator block? Here is my problem/logic - The amount of time I will spend making the needed mods my just exceed the logical time that makes sense for this machine. We got the engine basically for the cost of the rotating assembly from CAT so financially it wouldnt be a problem. At this point, I'd love to just swap the crank/rods/pistons and the oil pump and let it run from there...

Let me know what you guys think. If it is a direct swap, I'm going that route. I made the crank pulley puller the other day so it should be easy from that point out.

-Will

Nothings changed, see post #5

"Old wrote:

Nothings changed, see post #5

I understand that but let's work through this. We have a crankshaft that has the same front and rear sizing, we have a similar engine in sizing, it is a sleeved engine so the bore is largely irrelevant unless the actual block size is bigger but by measuring I doubt it. Basically, if the dimensions are the same between the parts, I'm swapping the parts over. And from what I can see I think they are very very similar in dimensions.

I've taken it apart some more. The cranks look very similar except the end with the pulley. I'll either have to modify the original pulley for a slightly smaller snout or I'll just use the other pulley and it'll underdrive the accessories a bit. Otherwise it doesn't look far off. Bearing spacing looks the same from the back of the engine, etc

You stated exchanging the entire rotating assembly, that's rods, pistons and crank and that's not going to work. If your talking just the crankshaft there is a difference in thrust bearing arrangements but that may interchange. Pulley is different, crank gear is the same, main bearings have different part numbers, rod bearing are the same.

"Old wrote:

You stated exchanging the entire rotating assembly, that's rods, pistons and crank and that's not going to work. If your talking just the crankshaft there is a difference in thrust bearing arrangements but that may interchange. Pulley is different, crank gear is the same, main bearings have different part numbers, rod bearing are the same.

Thanks for the info!

Crank would be my main concern. So you're saying there is a chance it might work? I could figure something out for the front pulley....

If the journal size of the mains matches and the thrust bearing arrangement interchanges then I guess your good to go as far as fit. There is an issue of balance as your talking different piston sizes between the two crankshafts. Also the rods are a different part number. Likely hood of a matched rotation balance seems iffy.