You would need the fan bracket and fan from a D330c or D333c Industrial engine.
Be aware the fan will extend forward much further than your D330A arrangement. Necessary to clear the water pump that sticks out much further.

The three point engine mounting with the flex bushing mounted to the timing gear cover allows for vehicle frame flexing. Not to be overlooked.

Picture of fan hub and bracket for the D330C Industrial Engine.

"Old wrote:

You would need the fan bracket and fan from a D330c or D333c Industrial engine.
Be aware the fan will extend forward much further than your D330A arrangement. Necessary to clear the water pump that sticks out much further.

The three point engine mounting with the flex bushing mounted to the timing gear cover allows for vehicle frame flexing. Not to be overlooked.

Picture of fan hub and bracket for the D330C Industrial Engine.

Definitely will keep some sort of rubber/loose mount. The engine in this cat almost "floats" the way the transmission mount is designed...

Thanks for the heads up on the fan. Honestly, I'll probably do a new universal aluminum radiator and electric fan combo - my radiator is also toast and they are like $1000 plus to get one made. It is going to be a full fab/hot rodding project at this rate. My turbo is also toast, so I'll be using some sort of aftermarket turbo to run in the place of the old one.

-Will

Take a good look at the oil pump pickups. The vehicular engine probably would not have the double oil sump setup for off level work. May be interchangeable or may work as is for your purpose. Just one thing to check.

"old-iron-habit" wrote:

Take a good look at the oil pump pickups. The vehicular engine probably would not have the double oil sump setup for off level work. May be interchangeable or may work as is for your purpose. Just one thing to check.

Another good point! Although I dont think the D330 is like a D2 engine, etc with the multiple scavenge pickups. IIRC there is only the single sump/pickup in the original engine. We really dont do anything radical with with machine so it would be fine as is....I probably do more radical angles with our Ag tractors and they are setup like every other engin and we have no problems.

-Will

Good news - I have dug in deep with the new engine and it is looking very promising so far. Clutch housing is straight swap, flywheel should be good, the front accessories should be good. The new engine seems to have a speedy sleeve on the crank that I need to remove as the new clutch housing hole is too small to fit over it, but the seal surface is the same.

How does on go about swapping the IP - Should I swap the entire IP or just the rear governor section? The power unit IP is setup for static throttle operation and has electric shutoff it seems. I think it would be best to just swap my entire old IP over, looks the same otherwise.

Do you guys have any thoughts on the removal of the front crank pulley? Any special tools to do the job - it is really on there...

I have pictures I will upload shortly

-Will

The speedy sleeve on the crankshaft flywheel flange is a combination for a worn seal surface.
Swap over the whole governor/injector pump as it will be different in governor and possibly injection pump cam shaft.
A two bolt puller w/crossbar is recommended for pulling the crankshaft gear.

I’ve pulled several crankshaft pulleys with a home made puller I have. It’s a chunk of 1” thick plate with a 1” NC forcing screw through the center. I just welded a nut to the plate for the all thread rod screw instead of trying to thread the plate. I just drill a new set of holes to bolt the puller onto each pulley hub.

Every one I’ve pulled has come off with a bang! Most required a whack with a small sledge hammer on the end of the forcing screw to shock it loose. Lubricate the threads well and then tighten the screw all you can get before smacking it.

As you may have gathered, they are put on with a keyed taper.

"Old wrote:

The speedy sleeve on the crankshaft flywheel flange is a combination for a worn seal surface.
Swap over the whole governor/injector pump as it will be different in governor and possibly injection pump cam shaft.
A two bolt puller w/crossbar is recommended for pulling the crankshaft gear.

The existing sleeve is insanely thick....must be an old model. The new speedy sleeves Ive used are like paper thin. I'll remove it and see what wear exists... I'm talking to my local CAT expert tomorrow about swapping the pump, etc. He probably has all of these tools, so that saves me time and effort in making them.

"ccjersey" wrote:

I’ve pulled several crankshaft pulleys with a home made puller I have. It’s a chunk of 1” thick plate with a 1” NC forcing screw through the center. I just welded a nut to the plate for the all thread rod screw instead of trying to thread the plate. I just drill a new set of holes to bolt the puller onto each pulley hub.

Every one I’ve pulled has come off with a bang! Most required a whack with a small sledge hammer on the end of the forcing screw to shock it loose. Lubricate the threads well and then tighten the screw all you can get before smacking it.

As you may have gathered, they are put on with a keyed taper.

Thanks for the head up on how to make a tool - I have what you describe in my mind. I'm talking to my CAT mechanic tomorrow to see if he has these tools, otherwise, I'll be making them. Any thoughts on the reinstall process?

-Will

The sleeve and seal assy is a Cat part #5S6297. Seal only is a 5S9022.

If you’re going to make a puller, for sure buy a fine thread screw and nuts instead of coarse. I used what I had on hand and it limits the force I can develop.
McMaster Carr should have all-thread rod if you can’t find it somewhere else.

Crankshaft wear rings aren’t a typical speedy sleeve application to salvage an unserviceable part. Instead it’s a designed renewal feature to allow engine overhaul to like new tolerances. That’s why they can be so thick.