Catching up on some work and overdue projects on my D42T 9069SP. Decided to try one last adjustment on the pinion latch screws, they appear to be done. I began pulling the Starting Pinion and heavily utilized the Serviceman's Reference as well as sasquatch (squatch253 on youtube) videos.

Starting Engine elevated not pulled off-worked just fine. Noting that I just redid my SE a few years ago and per suggestions on this board I applied grease to the pony block gasket. No issues with it tearing it up. Drained the coolant as well as the pony oil. Fully latched the pinion-took a little bit for it to hold. The pinion / clutch assembly is fully loose but not removed as I could not manipulate it beneath the Governor housing. The rear cap to the Governor is removed.

On the Pinion Clutch, the handle is removed as well as the end plate on the front of the mechanism. I did not remove the clutch cage (Part number 3B6399) as it was tight around the bearing and the dowel on the bottom wont allow it to turn. Two of the bolts for the main engine inspection covers are removed and therefore not obstructing the movement of the Pinion Clutch assembly.

Noted above, I was unable to pull the pinion clutch out-the Cage on the front of the Pinion Clutch assembly was striking the governor housing. If the cage was off, there would be no issue sliding the assembly out.

I decided to removed the Governor Housing making the removal more simple, but also I did not want to fight the governor when reinstalling the clutch pinion assembly once I make those repairs. A little disappointed I could not get it, but I decided I could use the effort to replace the "O"Rings on the Governor I have read on here about. Again, if I could have gotten the Cage (PN 3B6399) off, I am sure I would have slid past the governor-I was concerned I would break the Cage (which really seems as though it acts as a seal too). My intent was to video and post the removal.

My struggles come from removing the governor. I've read there are 8 each mounting screws-I just done see then. Looking at the parts book...again...I see I may have a third screw on the bottom of the governor. As of now I think I have four removed (two lower back side and two upper front side and one nut/ lockwasher located in a detent on the left side appx. midway up from the bottom. I removed one cap screw from inside of the governor and one nut-realizing now, each of them was a mistake to remove. The governor is hanging on and I cannot determine where. I have cleaned out between the main block and the governor and see nothing there; on the front right side of the governor I have cleaned out that too to where I do not see any nuts or cap screws. I have read that there are screw between the main block and the governor, but cannot determine where. Maybe the governor is hanging on, but I wont force it. Noting the Clutch Pinion assembly hung on for dear life too, but it coaxed free after a bit.

I have my governor off of my 2t and I only count 6 bolts holding it on, 3 on the bottom, 2 on the top and the stud and nut on the side. Sounds like you have one more on the bottom to get out.
The third bolt is up around the governor towards the block side.

If you’re wanting to change the fuel o-ring, take injection pump housing and governor off as a unit. It’ll be heavy but you can take it loose in one place and accomplish both tasks.

d2gary-thanks for confirmation. After looking at parts book when getting in from barn last night, that’s what I thought parts book was telling me.

Ccjersey- I’ll break down the parts book. Block is wet beneath fuel transfer housing but now that I’m this far on governor im going to need to replace gasket there so it needs split. I’m a little apprehensive on getting into the fuel transfer. How complicated does it get once I’m committed? Other than wet block the main engine purrs pretty good.

Also, to you both....what are thoughts on the end plate (Cage) at the front of the Clutch housing? Can this be removed on the tractor with governor on? I with idve put a small puller on it, maybe even a battery post puller using the end hex but as the leverage point. The assembly would practically fall out with that plate off.

Appreciate your feedback- Bernie

If you're just going to reseal the pump its pretty straight forward. You just have to work your way through the governor and pump to get to all the seals and gaskets. I would replace the seal where the shaft comes through the fuel tower while you are that far into it. I cant say if mine was leaking but the seal surface didn't look right . When you get to the orings on the fuel gallery they come out looking like a cone but they are in fact orings. The orings are still available from cat
I cant help you on the pinion removal because my governor was already off when I pulled it but it's not worth the fight for a couple extra bolts . Just put it in before you replace the governor

Yes, I agree. I’m committed on governor and injection housing. If that cap is removable while in tractor it would help the next guy-thx for the info. This “O” rings need replaced I’m certain. There is a lot of good info on the board for them.

Appreciated-Bernie

"Deebo" wrote:

I think your sentence “Two of the bolts for the main engine inspection covers are removed and therefore not obstructing the movement of the Pinion Clutch assembly.” might just have helped me enormously. I got the governor off having finally found that pesky bolt a third of the way up on the engine block side but couldn’t budge the pinion clutch assembly. It would only move a tiny amount. I’m away at the moment but hopefully if I can get those bolts you mention out that will help. I’m loathe to pry too much for fear of cracking the housing.. My pony is removed at the moment so I thought it should be straight forward to check the latches as per Squatch253’s video..

Good news-sometimes it turns out to be the smallest tidbit that can make a difference. I was just passing along with I learned from others here and elsewhere.

Happy wrenching! Bernie

"bernie" wrote:

…...

....what are thoughts on the end plate (Cage) at the front of the Clutch housing? Can this be removed on the tractor with governor on? I with idve put a small puller on it, maybe even a battery post puller using the end hex but as the leverage point. The assembly would practically fall out with that plate off.

Appreciate your feedback- Bernie

I've removed part of the quote above to just get to my primary question. The Cage with gasket 3B6401 needs removed so I can replace the gasket. Looking at it after trying to pull the cage seems to be a larger piece and not just a plate cover. This photo shows the Clutch and housing on the bench with needle nose straddling the gasket and the outside cage at one end of the pliers and the other interior that looks like it may be attached to the interior to where the plates are. The gasket that I want to get at is between the Cage and the housing. I don't want to gut the pinion assembly-bearings are not dragging, spring that loads the sleeve has plenty of push. The benefit I see to disassembly other than replacing the gasket is to be able to press the brass clutch discs as Sasquatch suggests-other than that I'd prefer to leave alone what's not broken.

A few more pics of Sleeve and both latches: