Thanks for the link to the picture of the spanner but I already had mine built. I modeled it after my Lisle engine flywheel spanner, (automotive type), and about 10X scale. 2 jaws with a pivot in the middle and a short piece of pipe welded to the "flipper" end so you can stick a big bar in it.

Oddly enough I thought, the adjuster wasn't tough to break loose. I ran it over until the sprocket tightened up but a little concerned about how far I had to go. When I started, the adjuster was backed clear to the outside tight up against the threaded piece. Seemed like maybe somebody put it together then didn't adjust it to preload the bearings? The lock was in place and tight so the way I found it is just how someone left it. After I got the bearings tight, there's probably .300" between the adjuster collar and the hub that it threads onto. That no doubt didn't do the bearings any good. I'm going to run it a little bit this summer to see what I've got them probably do bearings and seals next winter.

Next up, trying to get all the confounded bolts out of one of the front track idlers that needs replaced. Taking a lot of gas through the blue tip and a few blue words too.

Hi Team,
to correctly adjust the sprocket bearings the castellated nut HAS to be turned in a Counter-Clockwise direction--this true for both sides.
There should be NO gap between the adjusting nut and the outer bearing holder housing.
Hope it has not been run yet.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

I guess I'm going to have to get those CAT books bought then. Maybe the service manual will make things more clear for me. When I turned the castellated adjuster clockwise it tightened the sprocket up so I guess I don't understand without seeing a breakdown.

Yes, you need the books. You got ahead of us, I didn't think you would be able to come up with a spanner so quickly!

When you adjust the bearings, you are turning a nut threaded on a bearing "cage" which holds the bearing cup. The outer part of the whole hub assembly is fastened solidly to the end of the dead axle shaft. The outer track frame support pivots on this solidly anchored hub with a large bronze bushing. So with a fixed distance from the final drive housing on the inside and the hub on the outside, when you turn the nut on the cage counter clocwise it bears on the outer hub assembly and forces the whole cage and cup assembly toward the sprocket, tightening the bearings on the sprocket hub.


The reason it got tight was the adjusting nut is bearing on the sprocket or seal, NOT good if you run it. You can force the hub off the dead axle if you ever need to remove the final drive by turning the nut clockwise (after removing the large nut under the circular cover on the outside), so I don't think it hurts anything unless you run it with it like that.

Hey, the funnest part of any fix like this is getting to build the special tools! I probably had the spanner all cut out and welded up in less than an hour.

I just ordered Service, Maintenance and Parts books, total of $154 so I don't feel too bad about that, thought it would probably be more.

I'll wait for my books and go from there. I won't have much time until this weekend anyway.

Thanks for all the pointers.

It's been a while but I'm reviving an old thread. Got the books and sure enough, nothing was as it seemed. So I ran the castellated adjusted back out counter clockwise like I found it (I had only moved the machine off of one set of rails onto the other set so about 30 feet), locked it and went to work. Some observations: 1. Like previously identified, one brake doesn't work so I'll start with trying to adjust. 2. After it sits a few days or weeks, the first time you hit the starter it does nothing. Batteries are hot. If you keep hitting the start switch, the starter starts to hit then next thing you know, it's cranking just fine. Switch?. 3. Everything seems pretty smooth until the engine is wrapped up to full RPM. Right about the time it's getting to full RPM it starts to develop a small vibration. 4. It's got plenty of push but up against a big stump in low gear, if you spin down some and get a good bite, it will stop the tracks sometimes at WOT. I figured in low gear at WOT, it would always turn the tracks but not used to a powershift, maybe this is normal?

On another note, of course the original specs on the machined called for 30 wt SIII motor oil from front to back. I'm planning on straight 30 wt Rotella in the engine, hydraulic oil in the transmission, maybe Hytran that I run in all my Case tractors, and 90 wt in the finals. Seems like oils have advanced enough in the last 42 years to use one specific for each task rather than just motor oil in every hole. Any objections or input here is welcome.

Thanks,
Brent

Problem #2 sounds like a solenoid problem. Most can be taken apart and the copper discs cleaned up or turned over to get away from where the arcing is. As they slam together to put the juice to the starter and as they come apart after having done that job, there's a momentary arc between 'em.

Finally got the clutches and brakes pulled out. The left brake band was over half bare. Out of the 5 brake lining segments, 3 of them were gone. The rivets were all still there so evidently the linings had crumbled into chunks.

Anyone ever seen this? Wondering if it could have been from poor aftermarket brakes? Incompatible fluid? Or what?

Hi Team,
crumbled brake linings--we saw a rash of them back in the day in D7's, 8's and a few 9's as well.
Cat soon had a new lining formula--BUT it might have been more to do with the change from Whale oil additives to the new
Zinc Dithiophosphate slippery additive that the oil companies used then that made engine oil become not suitable for powershift transmissions and wet clutches, etc.

Cat then went to work on a new range of oils, the now recommended TDTO4 Transmission and Drive Train style of Oils.
Cats own TDTO4 oils came a bit later when troubles persisted due to owners not following the new advice of not using engine oils in their Trans etc.

Easy to tell if the wrong oil has been used in a Trans with burnt discs, it is to rub a sample of the oil hard between your thumb and forefinger--engine oil will continue to slide easily, where as Trans oil will soon grip after 2 to 3 rubs--used to catch clients out with that when they reckoned Cat Trans were not up to standard--but with this test we could easily explain and demonstrate the oil differences--sorry Mr Customer, No Warranty on that unit due to incorrect oil being used.


Probably started another oil war here but this is my experience and others experience may vary.

Cheers,
Eddie B.