RE earlier post; I have a parts manual & service manual for 94V ser# Will part with them forsmall money. Also have some others for 17A & 8&9u#..
We have 7G that does the same thing with shift. The dip stick under the seat is for trans and bevel gear case
must be full .Add mark is 3gal. ithink. Also when you have pans off; there is a suction screen in bottom of
tourque conv. CAT recommends using TDTO -TO4 weuse 50 wt.Say motor oil has too much wear additive for
clutches.

I wondered about the transmission not going into gear when it didn't appear to be pumping any pressure. I figured it must have been some kind of lockout feature. When it was pumping pressure and working right, it popped right into gear. Good news, all 6 gears work....when it's putting out hydraulic pressure.

It's going to be a while before I get to dig too deep so this post may go cold for a while but I'll dig it back up when it's time.

Digitty1, send you a PM regarding the manuals.

Thanks all,
Brent

Serial # checks out to be 1972. catskinner

I brought home a used undercarriage last weekend now I'm preparing to change it out. It appears that due to the stretch of the rails and an idler that's almost gone on one side, at least one track adjuster may be completely extended. I anticipate having to push it all the way back in to install the newer rails. Is it a good idea to disassemble the track adjuster and rebuild it prior to trying to tighten the replacement rail? What's the chances of it leaking after it's been bottomed out then re-extended? Any other pointers in the U/C changeout would be appreciated as well.
Thanks

"blythkd" wrote:

I brought home a used undercarriage last weekend now I'm preparing to change it out. It appears that due to the stretch of the rails and an idler that's almost gone on one side, at least one track adjuster may be completely extended. I anticipate having to push it all the way back in to install the newer rails. Is it a good idea to disassemble the track adjuster and rebuild it prior to trying to tighten the replacement rail? What's the chances of it leaking after it's been bottomed out then re-extended? Any other pointers in the U/C changeout would be appreciated as well.
Thanks

Yes, do the adjuster while you are there.

I split the tracks today and laid them out. Got most of the sprocket segments changed today, will finish in the morning. I noticed my sprocket centers have a little play side to side. I assume this can be adjusted? How big a job is it? Can it be done without tearing into the finals?

You've already done it, but you can easily change sprocket segments with the track on, just slacken it and get an impact to take the fastners loose. There is enough room to pull the segment out at the 8 o-clock to 11 o-clock position of the sprocket.

The slack in the sprocket could be one or both of two separate problems. The worst is the sprocket has come loose on the tapered spline of the final drive hub which rotates around the dead axle on two large roller bearngs. The second and less serious possibility is the bearings may be loose. There is a large "nut" under the sheetmetal cover over the sprocket hub which is used to tighten the bearing clearance. The proper spanner tool for this job has about a 4' handle on it and the instructions say to tighten it as much as you can!

Last year, I discovered the sprocket was loose on our D6. Of course I wanted to do the easy thing, so I borrowed the spanner and tightened the bearings. This made absolutely no difference since the problem was the sprocket had come loose on the tapered spline. Ended up swapping a final drive and then tightening the bearings on it! Looking back on it, if the sprocket is loose on the splines, it may wobble more dramatically than if the bearings are simply loose, so it should have been obvious that tightening the bearings wasn't going to fix it. Best way I can explain it is when the bearings are loose, when you pry on it with a bar, the sprocket will mostly move up and down, and while when it's loose on the spline, it will wobble more side to side and less up and down

Ccjersey, thank you for the insight. And I hear you on changing the sprocket segments one at a time but I'm replacing track groups too so they had to come apart anyway. I think my rails were ran nearly to total destruction. I tried to post a picture, maybe it worked. If you've been around dozers forever maybe you're seen worse rails but I imagine these nearly have to take the cake.
I'll check out the sprockets with a pry bar later today and see if I can develop an opinion of which way the play is coming from. As for a spanner, I assume most guys just fab one from some steel plate and piece of pipe?

You can drain a sample of oil from the final drives and examine for metallic particles in the oil. If you see particles, that is an indication of bearing failure going on in the final drives.

Checking for movement of the sprocket with a bar is good also.

Of course no metal is best, but many finals have a little from the gear surfaces spalling off. Chunks on the other hand............

The wrench you need looks like a log rolling hook or "peavy", just a small heavy duty version. I actually used a log roller hook on our D6, but it is really not heavy enough to do the job properly.

here is a thread showing one of these wrenches
www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?16160-Re...ight=sprocket+wrench