Hellos fellas. I've been following your forum for a while but since I just bought a Cat yesterday thought I should go ahead and register to start some conversation. I just bought a D7F 94N04314. Haven't even seen it yet "in person" yet, still looking for someone to go get it for me. I was talking to the last owner yesterday and he mentioned that when you start it, you have to let it warm up for a minute before it'll move. He thought the transmission was having to pick up oil at each cold start. He said after it warms up and goes, it's not a problem again as long as you're running it. I bought it on an online auction based on a video that was posted where the machine was pushing dirt so I didn't know anything about the slow start until talking to the guy yesterday. I'm not sure how concerned to be on the issue. Also, the undercarriage is probably -50% if a negative is possible. Everything is shot. I'll just be using it around the farm, low hours, so if anyone has a lead on rails and rollers that have a little life left in them, I'm in the market. Any feedback is welcome. Thanks.

Hello blythkd,

You will find plenty of people here that can help you with your new tractor. If possible, post some photos so that we can look it over with you.

Used undercarriage parts for D7 may be hard to find. There are sources for used Cat parts and new aftermarket parts.

Rebuilding different parts of the tractor can be expensive, so a thoughtful evaluation will be worthwhile before you get started.

Hi, Blythkd.
Re the slow-starting transmission, the first things I would look at would be the oil consistency and the transmission filter. If the oil is too thick or the filter choked, that is the sort of response you could expect. I can't remember if the D7F had a magnetic screen on the transmission but, if it did/does, that would be another place to check.

Fordhook is right. Once you get your 'grubby mitts' on it, photos will help us see what else might need attention - - - and also feed our addiction. LOL.

Just my 0.02.

If you have any doubts about the transmission, get a set of hydraulic pressure readings.

Not a good way to buy a tractor!!!!

Thanks for the pointers guys. And yeah Magnet, I couldn't agree with you more. I usually have to be in and out and all over something before I'll buy it. The only reason I bought this without actually seeing it was because per all the research I'd done, I believed I was buying it pretty right. And I enjoy getting my hands greasy on new and different stuff. I started working on small engines for a local Homelite dealer when I was 15, now I prefer to work with jacks, hoists, forklifts and cheaters when making old stuff new again. We'll see how this one turns out. I've got some land to clear. Will post pictures when my Cat arrives.

Find a set of manuals for it. Op Manual, Parts, Service, etc. Change all fluids and filters. Adjust everything back into spec.

When I bought my HD11, some of the oils were pretty nasty. It would only turn one direction due to improperly adjusted clutches. A few days going over everything and it works great now!

As for undercarriage, you aren't likely to find too much for used I wouldn't think. They are going to be worn down too far to bother with. I'd look for aftermarket. Or you might get lucky and find a machine that has been damaged - fire, accident, etc and get the undercarriage from it.

Andrew

Yeah, all good points. I do hope to find manuals without spending a fortune. One other thing some of you may be able to help me with right now. I'm getting freight quotes and so far have been guessing on the weight. The auction listing said, "41,560 base operating weight." If I'm not mistaken base operating weight in the dozer world is based on a bare tractor, no cab, no blade, no winch, no nothing. I asked the previous owner if he had ever scaled it and he hadn't. This is a base power shift tractor with a 12' S blade, hydraulic tilt, an open brush canopy and a solid hitch. It does not have a winch, ripper, or even brush sweeps. Any advice on estimated weight would be much appreciated. I'm sure some of you could give me better information than what I currently have. Thanks.

blythkd,
First check the magnetic screen to be sure there is no metal in it. (it should be located on the right side of the engine just in front of the flywheel housing). Be sure to replace the O-ring (5F-0149). Then I'ld drop the belly pans. Then you will see should see a steel line about 2" in diameter coming from the bottom of the transmission, that is your suction line, there will probably be a short rubber hose on it that has hose clamps, check them for tightness, most of them were double clamped. Make sure the clamps are the heavy duty ones and not the auto parts store ones, then try it, if that did it you good to go. (for a time they used a manufaftured hose instead of the steel in which case you'll have to replace the hose if the rubber is hard so I could be sucking air at the crimps). Before I would spend the money for the new hose I would drain the transmission and remove the entire suction line all the way to the pump, in order that the O-ring are not hard. Also check the one at the transmission. some people don't realize that the tube in the case has to be sealed also or it will starve for oil going up a steep slope. Some time the O-rings are black and I always use a yellow one from Cat to insure that they don't get hard again. Make sure that your replace the one on the bottom of the oil strainer it will be black and probably extreemly hard (everyone forgets about that one) causing it to suck air.

Hope that is of some use to you
Maurice

I've attempted to upload a picture, hope it works.

Thanks Maurice for the direction. Definitely plan to drop belly pans as part of an overall inspection when I get her home. What you're talking about shouldn't be too tough to do at that point.

Hey, I'm really good. I got the picture posted twice!