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D4 7U starting engine carburetor

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2 years 7 months ago #235282 by EliG
Are there any tricks to removing the carburetor on the starting engine?  Pull the dash or the magneto to get to the lower bolts?  For some reason the manual I purchased is missing the entire section on the starting engine and I can't get the entire manual in the library to load completely.

Thanks!
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2 years 7 months ago #235283 by bruce oz
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2 years 7 months ago #235287 by GrantJ
I had the carb off of my 6U a couple of times recently. After fighting with the nuts, I removed the governor to get to the outside bolt. Cat did not make it a user friendly job. Crows foot wrenches are needed for the inner nut. Fun, fun ,fun! Grant.
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2 years 7 months ago #235297 by Busso20
The easiest way I found was bonnet off, governor off a couple of different brands and types of spanner/wrench and wedge them in to make it happen, 1/4 or 3/8 drive socket if inner nut is tight next to mag, it will only crack it then go back to spanner/wrench, the linkages are reasonable to access, yes a few harsh words the first time around then its not to bad there after.
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2 years 7 months ago #235336 by Fat Dan
They all have great ideas like extensive expletives ... they really do help. I'd like to add to the crow's foot tool and an old distributor wrench 1/2"- 9/16 has that funky s shape to get in odd places.
On my No.12 Motor grader's pony I had to remove the fuel bowl to get to the one nut.. Use caution with the long needle jet

Once off they are off simple carbs to work on
Good luck

ACMOC Membership
955E 12A08263; 955C 12A04040; 955C 12A03563.
No.12 Diesel Motor Grader 8T14777.
No.12 Diesel Motor Grader 9K9320

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2 years 7 months ago #235337 by Fat Dan
I did find some rebuild kits for the 10hp pony one ebay
 

ACMOC Membership
955E 12A08263; 955C 12A04040; 955C 12A03563.
No.12 Diesel Motor Grader 8T14777.
No.12 Diesel Motor Grader 9K9320
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2 years 7 months ago #235375 by trainzkid88
cat still have gasket kits for those carbs.
ours needed new butterflies too.

check the choke and throttle shaft bores for play if loos either have them machined for bushes or add a o-ring to each end to make a seal the wear can be a cause of hard starting.

the best way to clean them is to sonic bath them. it's worth the $ at the local mower shop to get it done.
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2 years 7 months ago #235405 by EliG
Thanks for all the suggestions. I got side tracked and haven't had a chance to get back to working on it. I bought some cheap wrenches and am going to creatively adjust them to get to the nuts.

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2 years 7 months ago #235406 by Fat Dan

cat still have gasket kits for those carbs.
ours needed new butterflies too.

check the choke and throttle shaft bores for play if loos either have them machined for bushes or add a o-ring to each end to make a seal the wear can be a cause of hard starting.

the best way to clean them is to sonic bath them. it's worth the $ at the local mower shop to get it done.
 

Thanks trainzkid88 that's good to know ... I had gotten mine before I knew how to SIS over on Cat.com

ACMOC Membership
955E 12A08263; 955C 12A04040; 955C 12A03563.
No.12 Diesel Motor Grader 8T14777.
No.12 Diesel Motor Grader 9K9320

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2 years 7 months ago - 2 years 7 months ago #235420 by outbackrider
      For me, I found removing the gas fuel bowl allowed the easiest access to remove the 2 nuts holding the carb onto the starting engine. Remove the 2 screws that hold the bowl on, and gently pull the fuel bowl horizontally as mentioned earlier. You can see the corroded long brass jet tube that connects the bowl to the carb in my photo (photos posted in reverse order) I had to replace my jet, it was toast, the jet is still available.   Once all cleaned up and all passages cleaned, (there are good posts in the forums on how to clean the passages)  I reattached the carb body and then reattached the fuel bowl right on the starting engine.  
 
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Last edit: 2 years 7 months ago by outbackrider.
The following user(s) said Thank You: 8C 361, Fat Dan, steve_s, Shaban1983

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