The fibre material on the clutch pack does not like any water/coolant at all, they erode badly and make the face look like it was sand blasted (pitting),
yes it will stick to mag screens as the black paste in the pictures, check oil cooler first i think maybe it was the start of problem as the loose fibre will travel, block,wear parts. The T/C rebuild is ok as the 8K I did had only 3 bearings and a hand full of seals.

Wombat wrote:

I cant see the bearings failing in such a short time providing they were properly adjusted on installation. Fibre material in the filters is most likely brake band material. Without seeing how the canopy is mounted, you should not have to remove it to access the rear end compartments, just the fuel tank, will be three covers under it. The two outer covers are steering clutch and brakes, middle cover is bevel gear. It is a very straight forward job to remove steering clutches, two rings od bolts on each and you lift them out with the brake band.

Oil transfer into the final drives is past the final drive pinion seal, it can be replaced after removal of steering clutch and steering clutch hub to pinion flange, I have removed pinion and flange as a unit on D8H, maybe also possible on D7E.

Best of luck, Wombat

All I can do is go from what the documents tell me, which they indicate "set preload on bearings and reset backlash on ring gear".  IDK.  I bought it on a hope and prayer that I could save it.  I feel it is in good hands now as I usually cross the Ts, thus why I am doing so much leg work before I turn a wrench.  Gotta know this beast before I go in.  

So if I pull all these bolts off the clutches, how is there clearance to slide them up?  I guess I am asking, if there are bolted flanges on both sides, is one of the flanges splined to allow a little wiggle?  

And I would assume once you have the clutches out, that is the obvious time to do brakes, which did get done, and be able to inspect and set backlash on the ring?  
I mean, I am hoping not to see more bearing issues, but it would seem the dealer swapped these seals VERY recent, and I still have coolant in the RH final.  So I guess I am expecting either FOD, or install error.  

Busso20 wrote:

The fibre material on the clutch pack does not like any water/coolant at all, they erode badly and make the face look like it was sand blasted (pitting),
yes it will stick to mag screens as the black paste in the pictures, check oil cooler first i think maybe it was the start of problem as the loose fibre will travel, block,wear parts. The T/C rebuild is ok as the 8K I did had only 3 bearings and a hand full of seals.

OH crap!!!  I didn't even think about all the clutches that took a douche!  That could really spell disaster here.  What is there, like 3 packs in the trans, plus the steer clutches?  

Generally, I think the coolant created a nice slurry of snot that worked real well to plug the trans pump inlet and screen.  What I still don't like is how black that trans oil is.  I have never see one with dark oil like this.  Like you know it got brand new oil only 30-60days prior.  

And I still need to figure out what the second filter screen actually is that I pulled by the waterpump.  I was first thinking it was for the TC but it isn't.  All I know is CAT did a great job trying to protect that machine!  We will have to see if the hydraulic pumps took a hit here.  I intend to at least open the trans pump and see if FOD is evident.  

Rome wrote:

Hmmm, well that dont sound good about the overheating issue either, you DONT want to overheat these D339's! If a belt was off the pulley then the tensioner is probably shot too, the rubber bushing will fail and the tensioner gets cocked and off come the belts, even new belts. This machine must have been beat and with allot of hours on it. Shouldn't see any chunks of steering clutch or transmission disc material. The steering clutches are probably well used up
 

There is actually a video of this exact machine as it was sold yrs ago.  I think the owner wasted no time putting its nose down.  I really cannot confirm any overheat or how hot, but probably good to follow the invoice tracks.  They said "was getting hot".  Dealer said it "needed belts".....lol  Even I know belts don't come off for no reason.  

Anything I can check on overheat concerns before I get too deep?  It would seem the overheat was on the prior invoicing in which it got actually like 60 days of action, and was even in the field when it stopped turning correctly.  

these are reasons I pull dipsticks EVERY time.....  

The black oil is from friction material only, easy to replace, only the packs that were used during failure will be effected, the other may have general wear on them, these have spec sizes so no need to change all for no gain, hydraulic side is totally different circuit, only deal with trans and T/C as they have an issue, you will only find out when you have it apart, stay focused on what does not work.

Busso20 wrote:

The black oil is from friction material only, easy to replace, only the packs that were used during failure will be effected, the other may have general wear on them, these have spec sizes so no need to change all for no gain, hydraulic side is totally different circuit, only deal with trans and T/C as they have an issue, you will only find out when you have it apart, stay focused on what does not work.

I'd like to investigate the clutch material issues a bit more.  If you know what they used, I might like to chat with a fellow engineer on it.  

What I may want to do is find and repair the trans cooler issue and pressure test everything, change oils, drop oil from final, install new filters, and give it a test.  

If the machine can verify to me it is not a loss, I would be OK doing some clutch work BUT, this would not just affect the steer clutches, it would have got the trans as well, in which it must come out to do the clutch work.  Yeah, replacing frictions is peanuts compared to the labor here!  But I just cannot justify it until I know more about the machine.  

I can't comment of the steer clutch as I don't know anything about the circuit, the more you can do yourself the cheaper, you can get someone to check over what you have found or done, if you can use the machine it will save you in the long run, up front pain long term gain

Busso20 wrote:

I can't comment of the steer clutch as I don't know anything about the circuit, the more you can do yourself the cheaper, you can get someone to check over what you have found or done, if you can use the machine it will save you in the long run, up front pain long term gain

Oh I am not worried about my skill level or ability to fix it, it's just getting up to speed and making a plan.  Yes, I bought the machine to use it, not just a toy or project.  

I understand the slope with the clutches.  I design and manufacture race engine components.  I should have been thinking more on the clutch concern.  Appreciated!  My goal would be to get the machine working again while I monitor the oil color and screens for concerns.  I would guess the steer clutches would likely be the first casualty and if I feel it slip, it gets torn down in hopes of saving the drive steels.  

And I have a 322C hoe sitting at the ready to assist with the lifting.  I just really don't want to end up in that transmission.  It doesn't scare me, but it looks like a week of my life lost on that deal.  

There is lots of confusing information here, lets start with trans oil transferring into RH final, I will guess it is RH steering clutch not working. Cause I will guess is loss of pre load on bevel shaft bearings, crown wheel on left side so RH side can move about and flog steering clutch piston seals, as well move Final pinion shaft about and open seal and allow oil into RH final.

Water/coolant in trans oil is via heat exchanger, will have a hole/split in it, not a difficult fix, just need to identify leaking tube and seal it off.

Wombat

Wombat wrote:

There is lots of confusing information here, lets start with trans oil transferring into RH final, I will guess it is RH steering clutch not working. Cause I will guess is loss of pre load on bevel shaft bearings, crown wheel on left side so RH side can move about and flog steering clutch piston seals, as well move Final pinion shaft about and open seal and allow oil into RH final.

Water/coolant in trans oil is via heat exchanger, will have a hole/split in it, not a difficult fix, just need to identify leaking tube and seal it off.

Wombat

I will need a little guidance on the construction to better understand you.  The service book and parts book is nearly useless to see how it is assembled.  From what I gather, a final pinion gear drives a ring gear on a "cross shaft" (you call a bevel shaft?).  There are bearings to handle the thrust and radial loads coming off that ring gear.  Obviously if those bearings lose preload, they would shift sideways creating way too much backlash and pulling on the steering clutch?  

my concern, if I understand correct, is what is getting hammered and worn?  If those bearings are not holding the load, something is!  

And of course the invoices do not indicate which side was having issues.  It was having steering issues on its first visit, and final visit.