Glum wrote:

Are you trying to drop the trans or lift it out? You need the machine on blocks to take it out the bottom.

bottom, i have it up on blocks

Hi, wlf89.
As I understand it, those engine mounts have vertical adjustment - with shims on the ones I worked on - to make sure the couplers are correctly aligned. I don't think there is any fore-n-aft adjustment.

Just my 0.02.

I was thinking fraction of an inch from hogged out engine mount bolts. Something is wrong if your needing an inch of clearance.

Have removed/refitted Transmissions to 941--951--D4 and never recall having to shift the engine--there are two bosses--one each side-- on the trans case ad from memory you lift by these as they are close to the for and aft balance point allowing you to tilt the trans for and aft to work it down in stages by placing the pinion head into a cavity in the rear case--at which point you lower the trans and do the same again with the pinion.
The main flywheel cover plate lower bolts on the flywheel housing need to be removed, also the trans pump and lines on the front if the T/C housing--it is a bit of a Chinese puzzle to maneuver it just so and if you hold your mouth right it should come out.

Maybe loosen the the engine mount bolts and slide the engine forwards 1/2" or so for some extra clearance--perhaps if the front engine support bushing has failed/worn the front of the engine would be down and so the lower edge of the flywheel housing may be back some but not much I feel--could be the difference though.
If the front of the frame is bent down this could explain it too.

Below are scans for aligning the drive coupling--it is important for the longevity of the pucks, the front T/C bearing and spline.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

it seems that the six bolt flange is being held tight by the interference fit of the spigot to the flywheel.
Cannot recall if there could be puller bolt threads between some of the flange retaining bolt holes--if not maybe tap a thread into one of the bolt holes just enough to get a suitable puller bolt in for a few threads--first cut a length of suitable diameter rod that will drop into the threaded hole of the flywheel to jack onto with the puller bolt and see what happens.
Hopefully with the flange off, along with the dust plate you should pick up the needed 1" or so.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

It doesn't look like you are in luck as far as a forcing bolt goes but there is nothing but a tight fit holding it in place once the bolts are out.


Here is a pic of the 3 holes for lifting eyes


I know its a hell of a tight fit but I'm pretty sure if you can hang it right it should come out without removing the flywheel side flange. Also helps to have a helping set of hands so one guy can work the tackle while the othere wiggles and pries.

Hi Team,
agonized over this most of the night as it is some 30 odd years since I removed/refitted a few D4, 941/951 Trans. and as best I recall that as long as the Steering pump is removed from the top front of the Torque Converter housing there should be ample clearance especially with the engine drive flange removed also.

Failing that remove the Torque Converter from the Trans. and you will walk it in. The T/C is on the front of the Trans and can be easily removed after removing the Trans Pressure control valves and 2 pipes that go from them to the T/C housing--undo the ring of bolts that attach the adapter ring to the Trans Case.
Also check the T/C to Trans drive shaft splines on both shafts and their splined coupling--the T/C shaft splines seem to be designed to be soft and so wear and eventually shear off--sometimes a source of drive loss.

Now to get back under my rock in lock down since March.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

Service manual says to remove the "eight" bolts holding the pucks for transmission removal. Doesn't say anything about removing the flywheel flange. If you must remove I can't believe a suitable pry bar and fulcrum point wouldn't pop it of off there.

got the trans removed and am down to the part where it says to clamp the planetary together and lift out. all i have is regular vise grips and they are slipping to much. thinking i need some of these welding pliers. unless yall can recommend something better?