"Neil" wrote:

Could do with a few icy moments here - been in the 90s for the last couple of weeks - been hell on the golf course : )

Been -1 and minus 2 celsius here in the mornings Neil, if that makes you feel any better!

"edb" wrote:

Hi Mike,
it almost goes without saying that if you have found that the Accessory Drive Shaft is not turning then the Injection Pump is not turning also and seizure in the drive or pump may be the source of your sheared key--if that is what you find--check the Acc. Drv. Shaft front bearing for seizure, ditto the Injection Pump, its drive tang and slot for damage if pump is seized and also the Governor due possibly from low oil level in the Inj. Pump sump.
If the Acc. Shaft front bearing is seized check the oil supply and pipe work to that front bearing cage and that the bearing oil hole is aligned to the supply port.

Looks like front timing cover off to do most of this checking/repairs--not a nice job these icy mornings you are having at present.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Hello Eddie, thanks for your thoughts, injection pump oil level was good, at the fill neck, straight 30W oil in there, so hopefully the pump is OK, I won't know what caused the issue till I get the front off, it will be something simple no doubt, on a engine with probably 50,000 hours on the clock.

The pain will be refitting the fuel transfer pump, you will recall the challenge of that 4B5098 gasket hole not being large enough for the 4B9052 "Seat", luckily I have a almost new seal tamping tool here you kindly made for me.
All the best
Mike

Hi Mike,
the Transf. pump gasket should come as a 2 piece item--main gasket with a larger hole to fit over the sleeve collar and, a ring gasket to go under the sleeve's collar now so you can destroy the main gasket but not have to remove the gear and the sleeve to fit a new main gasket.

I have cut the ring gasket at 45 Deg.--like a shaft packing-- across the ring and glued the joint before today as you need the tapered sleeve to re-install the sleeve's pressed packing over the shaft shoulder--you should have one or two of those as well.

The new fine woven mesh wound silvery finished packing can disintegrate if tamped too hard and so I now suggest to press them--they seem to hold up OK.

To refresh your memory maybe read the 5 pages of the Transf. Pump Tamping Tools thread from last time :- see the link below to save doing the exercise yet again.

www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?16426-Fu...ghlight=tamping+tool

Cheers,
Eddie B.

Thanks for that walk down memory lane Eddie, it was 7 years ago, I forgot you put it back together the second time.

Cat do not show that gasket as available, I like the idea of a 2 piece gasket, or gentle 45 degree V cut to allow the new gasket space to slide over the seat, I'd very much prefer not to have to go through all that drama again with the seals.
Regards
Mike

I got the starter pinion spring out, it was a bit of a trick getting the screws undone with the pinion engaged, I couldn't get access to the screw heads via the small circular hatch, and had to come at them via the main clutch inspection cover.

I was surprised to find the spring looks OK, I was expecting it to be broken or compressed, I had a spare pinion here and compared the spring out of that spare and they both look, and feel about the same. There is a fair bit a slop in the pinion, perhaps that might be rocking as it is spinning, causing the latches to release early?

I know when I got the rebuilt diesel engine running a few months ago, I had to tighten those 2 screws down several times trying to get the latches to hold long enough to fire off the main motor OK, they were certainly screwed nearly all the way down in their holes.

I have the radiator off, and water pump, plus the accessory shaft front cover, I can see when turning the crankshaft pulley that the idler gear is not turning, so the problem is closer to the crankshaft, it will be interesting to find out what is going on, I just need to find a socket big enough to get the crankshaft pulley off, my largest socket is about 1/16" too small sadly, it looks like the socket needed is 2-3/8", does that sound right?
Thanks
Mike

Well, I knew it would be something simple causing the problem, sadly, solving the issue is not so simple....

The fiber camshaft gear has stripped some teeth, that explains why I saw some oil sitting on top of the aircleaner, I guess that suggests bent valves and possibly damaged pistons, and obviously the reconditioned head I fitted only 10 hours run time ago, needs to come off again.

It took me 7 years to get this engine back together and running, this poor old tractor had been abused by a whole congo line of drop kicks and deadbeats.

Oh well, I always say, the day I never learn something new when working on these old Cats, is a day I've wasted.
Mike

"Mike wrote:

Well, I knew it would be something simple causing the problem, sadly, solving the issue is not so simple....

The fiber camshaft gear has stripped some teeth, that explains why I saw some oil sitting on top of the aircleaner, I guess that suggests bent valves and possibly damaged pistons, and obviously the reconditioned head I fitted only 10 hours run time ago, needs to come off again.

I took me 7 years to get this engine back together and running, this poor old tractor had been abused by a whole congo line of drop kicks and deadbeats.

Oh well, I always say, the day I never learn something new when working on these old Cats, is a day I've wasted.
Mike

Ouch... That fibre gear was a jolt to my memory! Remember it on our D4 5T and how it also stopped a Cat in its stride! I was about 6 years old then, but I do remember Oom Jaap (Uncle Jaap) coming to fix her up, all in a day's work! My Dad's issue about Cat putting such a rotten piece of "engineering" in such a wonderful machine cannot be repeated here... Uncle Jaap's comments to my Dad at the time was that the fibre gear was to protect the engine!

Hello dewets, that's interesting your D4 suffered the same fate, I know my tractor engine has been reconditioned previously, maybe more than once, so I was wondering if tractors made or rebuilt during WW2, were fitted with these fiber camshaft gears to save metal for the war effort, for example you see steel serial number and radiator model number plates used on these tractors rather than the nice brass one's used previously, I had assumed my fiber gear was a cheap aftermarket part, but I'm usually wrong.

Looking at the old gear I can see in different spots of it's circumference how the ends of the teeth are very thin, so it's no wonder it broke, I really am hoping the valves and pistons are OK, but knowing my luck I'll be looking for some more new valves, though hopefully not pistons, valves I can still get, piston's are a no go.

Hello Deebo, glad to hear you are dragging more Cat rubbish home, you really have been bitten by the bug haven't you, at least when you buy your next dead Cat, you will have all the spare parts you will need waiting ready to go.

How is Mrs Deebo adjusting to seeing her lovely garden and garage being overrun with your yellow rubbish??
Regards
Mike