66D1651 is not a 3306. That engine is a D333C. The priming pump used is a very reliable unit with only a seal and a couple of o-rings along with ball check valves. Part #9H2256. Scroll pump is correct. There are a couple of o-ring seals in the connection between the filter base and the injection pump fuel gallery that are candidate leakers. part#9H4557.

Glum, kittylover

You were right! Went out to the boat today with all sorts of plans to sort out the hard starting. Anyway gave the glow plugs a 20 second burst and the motor started straight away. I feel like a real goose. The starting had been difficult and I thought it was lack of fuel but quick blast on the glow plugs and I'm back in business. Thanks heaps, saved me a lot of worry and a lot of time and possibly a lot of expense.

Edb, I am moving onto my next problem and that is my max revs under load is 1500 rpm. I havent tested the tacho but the max rpm without load is a bit under 2000. As the boat is new to me and the engine is very old I had never pushed the rpm above 1400. The boat is a displacement hull so its all about the journey. Now that I have partially rebuilt the engine I was a bit more confident about pushing the throttle. I have a problem with the stop solenoid and the lever it pulls. The solenoid is toast and I had to cut it off as the bolt holding it to the governor is rusted solid. The shaft which I have highlighted in the photo is seized solid. You can see where I have been hitting it with a hammer and using multi grips without any luck.

My question is, is it possible that the stuck shaft and non moving solenoid levers are stopping the governor from getting to full revs? My plan is take the plate off the end of the governor and unbolt the fork which goes upward under the end of the governor. Is that do able for an amateur? I dont want governor springs shooting off in all directions.

Yes, if the solenoid shutoff lever is not fully retracting it can interfere with the governor and rack movement. Nothing is going to jump out if you remove the lever.

-great news!

they really do work well, that bit of time putting some heat into the cylinder really pays off

if you can get a couple of cylinders to light off, you're in business

Funny about the D333C/3306. When I am in SIS looking at parts and plug the serial no in it tells me its a 3306 but as I look at different parts it jumps to
D333C. I usually call it a 3306 because a small percentage of people have heard of them, not so much with the D333C!

I rang Caterpillar in Australia to find out the horsepower (its a turbo) and they told me it was a 3306B and reckoned it was 200hp to 215hp, but then told me they had googled it to get the answer! Lost a bit of credibility there!

Soon I will remove the end plate off the governor and remove the stop solenoid tang and hopefully it will help. I will install a cable to stop the engine.

Any info on the motor regarding horsepower and max revs would be appreciated and thanks always for your help.

Waltini:

i don't have any direct experience with diesels in boat applications (disclaimer) but....

-what i have read, powering a boat is a heavy, continuous load....a lot of factors involved...weight, speed, gearing, prop design,.......and probably many more factors....you may not want to run above 1500 RPM continuously...? (engine never gets a break or lesser load)

-longevity, reliability, efficiency, economy may all increase by being cautious and conservative...

-hopefully some experienced diesel engine boaters can chime in...

The D333C turbo charged marine engine is rated at 270 hp at 2200 rpm, 525 cu, @2200 lbs, 4.5"x 5.5"

Hi Team,
scan below shows what is in the shut off solenoid area--basically a bell-crank lever that the shutoff solenoid plunger moves to pull the rack to the shutoff position.
As said above it can affect the rack moving to the full rack position which should not affect the maximum RPM at no load unless it is severely restricting the rack travel.

Marine engine RPM's are usually set for the prop they are driving (picture gear ratio by virtue of the pitch and number of the blades) that can end up like trying to run in overdrive.
Your Marine gearbox ratios come into play also.
A displacement hull has an optimum hull speed that can be viewed by the position of the bow waves along the side and past the hull when optimum speed is achieved--basically you can add another 500 horsepower and only go 2knots faster than optimum speed.

Too much pitch and the engine will be running in lug condition and so cannot achieve its maximum standard factory set Full Load RPM Setting--ideally the engine should run a maximum Full Load RPM just above the specified settings for the engine application.
All too often I found that dinged props were often reset with more pitch than original supply.
Wooden and fiberglass vessel hulls take in water, usually have more equipment fitted, long range tanks, fouled hull etc. than when the vessel was Accredited at the time of its initial Sea Trials--Records should exist for these trials for comparison.

A problem I have encountered on a few occasions was with re-powered vessels still using the previous slower revving engine propeller and trying to get the faster revving Cat to run at its own rated speeds--cannot be achieved and so has to run at the old engine speed.

Experience shows that if the engine is lugging in an under speed condition you may have black smoke if the rack has not been cut back to suit--there are given Rack Settings for given RPM's or the engine is overloaded.
Soot from black smoke is an abrasive and so engine life is shortened--oil gets black and thick quickly and so on.

As a general rule there should be a plate on the engine with its Performance Settings--it can be in the form of a Consist List Number maybe with Rack and RPM Settings shown or an 0T Specification Number plate usually on the Valve Cover on later engines, that should also have the Settings that the engine was set to from the Factory or has been reset to since for hopefully your application.

Cannot think of much else as yet--more may drop into the think box later as it has been many years since I did any marine engine in-situ work and did the Cat School in 1982 for it--had to leave my school books at The Dealer when I retired--the marine school book had pictures of bow waves/wakes to help identify hull types and optimum speed point recognition that I would have liked to show here. Google is sure to find some examples.

Found in a few single and multiple engine applications the throttle controls were not pulling the Gov. to and holding its Full Travel Full Rack position so as to keep a continuous full travel position achieved--may need to adjust the inner/outer cable to achieve this as cables from the bridge control lever can stretch in time.

Hope some of this makes sense as Marine applications are a headache of another level with many hidden reasons for low performance.

EDIT--now I could go back and reacquaint myself with your picture of your Injection Pump I feel that the angle of the Gov. control lever/bolt is at an angle that inhibits sufficient angular movement to go from the Low Idle--bolt basically vertical--spring pulling back-- to the Full Rack position with any surety. The lever needs to point further towards the rear at Low Idle and be vertical or just past for optimum working angles and so achieve the best resultant applied forces to the Gov. spring.
You are most likely not achieving full Gov. Shaft rotation to get full RPM's

Cheers,
Eddie B.

The 66Dxxxx series is not a marine engine. It's application is either industrial or generator set operation. The following covers your 66D1652 s/n.
In its Industrial application full load rpm runs 1800 to 2200 and produces 175-250 hp depending on governor group, governor spring, rack setting and manifold pressure.
Same goes for the gen set application but the ratings are lower, 1500-1800 FLrpm and 135-190 hp. depending on arrangement.
All according to my rack setting manual.
To add to the variety the 66d became a 3306 at s/n 8891.

Hi OM,
thanks for taking this further, I did not have time before to research further to clarify the engine's original application--as you have pointed out it can be set to any number of applications, RPM's and H/Power.

This is where we hope for the Bill of Materials Number or an 0T Number to define it further. They may not apply anyway if the plates were not changed to reflect any alteration from the engine's initial Factory settings.
It could be a Pandora's Box otherwise to detect what our man has in his vessel--Gov. would likely need dismantling to see what colour codes are on the Gov. spring for a start along with measuring the actual Rack and Torque Spring Group settings.
Could get interesting.

However I would still suggest assuring that the Gov. control is going full travel from the bridge and/or engine room for a start--back to basic operational checks/adjustments before going technical.
Disconnect the Morse cable and operate the Gov lever by hand to see if a higher RPM is achieved and go from there.

Cheers,
Eddie B.