My d4 7u seems to not have a main clutch lock, I don't know if I'm not doing it right or maybe it was removed but I can't let go of the clutch lever without it disengaging. The transmission group no. is 5h134 (low speed group I believe) if that helps.
Thank You
Josh

Your clutch needs adjusting. It’s not snapping over center.

Could be loose if lever is pulling nearly all the way back in the slot in the floor plates

Could be too tight if it has a lot of room to come on back toward the seat if it would.

Most likely it just needs tightening about a 1/5 to 1/4 a turn.

Hi,
we need to know if you have either a dry or an oil clutch so we can give you the correct data.
The Serial Number, not given, may give us this info but as an oil clutch could be retrofitted to some S/No's this may not help either.
Scans below may help--if you have the oil clutch be very careful tightening the 3/8" UNF locking plate nuts up as the stud is soft steel and they strip very easily--about 20 lbs/ft should do--if it strips simply use a die nut to run a 5/16" thread onto the stud and go from there making sure to grease the stud and die nut to catch the shavings, also some rag under the work area with a magnet close by helps catch crud too.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

"55HT4" wrote:

My d4 7u seems to not have a main clutch lock, I don't know if I'm not doing it right or maybe it was removed but I can't let go of the clutch lever without it disengaging. The transmission group no. is 5h134 (low speed group I believe) if that helps.
Thank You
Josh

If you have a dry clutch, you have to rotate the collar one direction or another until you get the "snap" in place.

If it is too tight, it won't snap in place, if it is too loose, it won't snap in place.

I don't have a D4 so I cannot say for sure what your exact experience will be in adjusting the clutch. I believe some people here have some pictures of the manual that show you how to do the adjustment.

My experience with the adjusting bolt is you may not be able to loosen the nut because one side of the nut is locked in place by the side of the mechanism. You may have to loosen by the bolt head instead of the nut. Basically, if you can't loosen the nut, turn the clutch and loosen the bolt.

Once you get that adjustment done, the snap will be very satisfying.

You're right the snap was quite satisfying, I was able to find the procedure in my manual just as you described, loosen the nut the adjust accordingly. Was not fun to access inside the cover as I am not small person and the machine has a logging cage on it, was able to do though after unpinning the main clutch lever and bungee cording the steering clutch levers back.
Thanks for all the help
Josh

there is a special tool with a wobble socket on the end that makes adjusting the clutch much easier.

"55HT4" wrote:

You're right the snap was quite satisfying, I was able to find the procedure in my manual just as you described, loosen the nut the adjust accordingly. Was not fun to access inside the cover as I am not small person and the machine has a logging cage on it, was able to do though after unpinning the main clutch lever and bungee cording the steering clutch levers back.
Thanks for all the help
Josh

My D5 has the similar issue. I adjusted on it for days and never got a snap. I'd love to know the satisfaction of that handle staying engaged.

Hi Team,
if you check the clutch throw out bearing cage where it should make contact the rear of the split adjuster collar face when the clutch is snapping over centre when correctly adjusted :-

if you have a gap here with the clutch lever moved to the engaged position but with no snap over then the adjustment is Over adjusted--back it off until you get snap over,

if you have no gap and no Snap over then you need to adjust the adjuster until snap over occurs.

If you cannot hold the adjustment after tightening the clamping bolt/nut then remove said bolt and nut and check them for stretched threads, rust build up on the threads, galling threads, etc. at the clamped position as these reduce the clamping force needed to hold the adjustment due to the binding threads.

Scan below may help explain where to look for the gap that I talk about above, if over adjusted, or no gap if under adjusted with no Snap Over in both cases.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

"kharville" wrote:

My D5 has the similar issue. I adjusted on it for days and never got a snap. I'd love to know the satisfaction of that handle staying engaged.

You might try going to one of the extremes and backing it off. Byy extreme, I mean where the lever may resist being pulled back to where the snap should be.

Also, don't be afraid to go to where the lever seems pretty loose. Like, you may be able to achieve the snap when the lever can be pulled and snapped into place with just your finger. Just because you "tighten" the clutch doesn't mean you are going to achieve the snap. I think the snap is generally just on the verge of the clutch lever having some resistance when you pull it into place.

When I started to run a CAT D7 6T dozer in 1958, my boss told and showed me how to adjust the clutch so it would SNAP over center. In my next 2 years before I went into the service, I don't know how many times I had to pull that clutch out. It got to the point that when I started working on it, 1 hour later, I had it setting on the fender. I finally realized and wondered what would happen if I didn't tighten it up that much. I don't know if I ever pulled it again, but it sure was a lot easier to engage it and it never slipped for me either. You can get it to tight and is hard to snap in. catskinner.