No seals. Same oil level in both. Drain diesel and refill with gear oil.

The winch shaft sticks out about 18”. It’s a pain getting it back on the tranny shaft.

"Neil" wrote:

Speaking of those dowels, where would a fellow find them for the Hyster D2 winch? If I understand the installation correctly, the two steering arm shafts that are visible at the top of the case are replaced by slightly longer ones that locate in holes in the bracket and this is what's referred to as dowels?
If someone would like to make me that bracket, I would be glad to pay : )

Neil,
I did a complete disassembly, rebuild and install of a D2N on my D2. There are some detailed pictures and descriptions along with the seal and bearing numbers to replace the originals on a thread here.
The pins I had made from an old one but were 3/8" longer.

Have a good day.....Bill

Mangoman, The manual makes it appear like the lower bolts are in the same pattern as the drawbar brackets and probably are easy to reach with the side plates off. One of them may be changed to a dowel pin. The upper bolts are large (1 inch) and bolt to the mounting brackets that have been added to the tractor. From the diagram and a hazy memory, I think there are only the 2 large bolts at the top. This originally came with a D4 7J (1942) so things may be a little different for your control linkage. If you are removing it to sell, you will need to remove your fenders to take the mounting brackets off of the side of the tractor. I dont know how to post on the web, but if you would like a hard copy of the manual, I can copy and send it by snail ail. If you would like that, PM me a mailing address. This is a parts manual but also gives maintenance and adjusting advice. Grant.

There is some bad/ incorrect information above concerning a Hyster D4 N winch:

It is not necessary to remove any side plates to remove the winch from the tractor;

There are 6 studs - 2 on each side and 2 on the bottom with lock washers and nuts that hold the winch to the rear casting;

There are 4 bolts on the bottom securing the drawbar swing plate;

4 cap screws go thru the top of the rear tractor cover that hold a bracket with a large thru bolt that engages the top 2 holes in the winch casting.

There are no "mounting brackets" on the side that require removing the fenders.

The u series D4 may not have the mounting brackets that are needed on the 4G or 7J model, but having just removed said brackets from a 4G, it is necessary to remove the fenders to remove the brackets. I will have a look at my 6U tomorrow and see if the rear housing is different than the earlier ones. Grant.

"phildirt" wrote:

There is some bad/ incorrect information above concerning a Hyster D4 N winch:

It is not necessary to remove any side plates to remove the winch from the tractor;

There are 6 studs - 2 on each side and 2 on the bottom with lock washers and nuts that hold the winch to the rear casting;

There are 4 bolts on the bottom securing the drawbar swing plate;

4 cap screws go thru the top of the rear tractor cover that hold a bracket with a large thru bolt that engages the top 2 holes in the winch casting.

There are no "mounting brackets" on the side that require removing the fenders.

Thanks. Yes this is how it appears to be. I nearly had a hernia as I dont have heat or compressed air but I double wrenched the drawbar swing plate bolts and got them out. The other four were not bad. The top jamnuted nuts appear to be maybe 1 7/16" so I will borrow the appropriate socket from work later this week, rig up my hoist and give it a heave-ho.

"Neil" wrote:

Many thanks Bill - were the pins just mild steel? I ask because I understand they're called shear pins.

Neil,
Yes......they were nothing special...….make sure the top is tapped so if necessary you can remove if needed..
Have a good day...…..Bill

If you only got 4 out you missed 2. There are 2 more 1 1/8" nuts on studs on the bottom. Could be covered in grease oil and crap.

You just think you got a hernia so far if you try to get it off without removing those two.