I have a Hyster D4N on the back of my 7U. I took the cover off today. Everything looks about how I expected. There is a seal between the bevel gear housing and the winch- not a void? I filled the bevel hosuing/ trans with diesel fuel to flush it a little and now there is diesel in the winch it seems. I want to remove the winch. Is it a matter of the six nuts and lift away? Do I have to disconnect anything? I'm guessing 1500lb. Does that sound close?

Much thanks

if you google Hyster D4 winch you will find the manual from hyster in PDF to download. it gives full instructions and lift points etc.


www.alliedsystems.com/pdf/Winch/Manuals/599185W.pdf

Thank you very much! I will find out hopefully this weekend. Also curious if my engine sn matches the frame.

The original Hyster Towing winch on my dads RD4 is listed at 1225 lbs. I dont know if the D4N is any different, but probably not much. Grant.

Hi Team,
been many years since I fitted one of these new at the Dealer in the mid 1960's but I would suggest to remove the top centre cover plate on the winch and check for 1 or 2 hidden nuts--seem to recall one had a castellated nut and split pin in it. One of the two may be in an external pocket up there that fills with dirt--could also be only on larger winches.
I stand to be corrected.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Darn, I just looked at the manual for the D4 winch this afternoon, but left it at the ranch when I came home.It had a very good procedure list for installing and I would assume it would just be reversed to remove. If I go up tomorrow, I will bring the manual home and see if I can help. Grant.

"GrantJ" wrote:

Darn, I just looked at the manual for the D4 winch this afternoon, but left it at the ranch when I came home.It had a very good procedure list for installing and I would assume it would just be reversed to remove. If I go up tomorrow, I will bring the manual home and see if I can help. Grant.

That is over the top! Thanks for the pointers everyone I need all the help I can get! 😄😁

I pulled the cover and will have a close look for any hidden fasteners hopefully tomorrow. I think the weather is supposed to go in the tank so that may impede things. My "shop" is pretty ghetto you may say but it's what I got!

Good Morning--

Back the tractor onto a couple of 6" blocks to raise the rear and it will not slobber as much (or any) oil out the back when the winch comes off.

It is a lot easier job if you remove the seat tank before starting the removal - much better access to the shifter connections and the top brackets.

There are no hidden fasteners - 6 studs into the rear casting, 4 cap screws and 2 dowel pins on the top brackets and 4 cap screws holding the drawbar brackets.

There are no seals - just a big gasket between winch and rear casting.

The winch needs to come back straight about 2" to slide the splined coupler off the transmission output shaft.

It is heavy - I have done it with a forklift, but a good engine hoist will work. Get it balanced well before it comes off the studs.

If you are looking for a serial # for the proper section in the manual and the plate is gone the number (probably starts with "BTN") should be stamped on a raised boss just above the center nut on the right hand side of the winch.

The attached picture is of a D4D winch - it is about the same configuration - different controls and operation.

McMaster Carr has a huge assortment of "dowel pins".

A good machine shop should be able to fabricate the top bracket.