This COVID-19 thing has a silver lining, as I have had a little more time to work on the restoration of my CAT22 2F5209. It had a dozer blade added at some time. I had to make complete new track frames, new roller shafts, some roller bushings replaced, new idler shafts as the old ones were broken in half, new pivot shaft and bearings. Don't know how the old girl was still able to move. Photos show a before of one track frame, and the new one I just got installed. Ray

WOW. You are putting some work into that one. Looks lake it will be better than new when done.

My Cat shop projects have also benefited from the covid thing as the real job has slowed allowing more time in the shop.

Your project is looking good, I built new track frames for Dads wide 30 that was in similar condition. Lots of work.

That's some nice work there and a lot of it. Tractor looks good painted. I like the dozer mounts, my D2 had similar mounts to your old ones. The mounts on mine caused opposing pivot points that were really hard on the track frame causing a big stress crack in the section between the mounts. Good luck with your tractor, looks good

Ray, how are you going to power the hydraulics? My brother bought a complete blade/bucket setup for our 22 and it has a little tiny belt driven pump, but the cylinders are small diameter (high pressure???) so may match the pump. I have a few more issues to sort out before I can mount it, but I have doubts about the pump and wondered what you used. Thanks, Grant.

"GrantJ" wrote:

Ray, how are you going to power the hydraulics? My brother bought a complete blade/bucket setup for our 22 and it has a little tiny belt driven pump, but the cylinders are small diameter (high pressure???) so may match the pump. I have a few more issues to sort out before I can mount it, but I have doubts about the pump and wondered what you used. Thanks, Grant.

Grant,
As you can see from the attached photos, the lift cylinders are good sized. The hydraulic pump is driven from the PTO in the back. The only disadvantage of this setup is that the engine clutch has to be engaged, even if not in gear, to drive the pump. Ray

I had a similar setup on my R2---after a while you will get use to the clutch needing to be engaged---at the end of a push i would automatically shift into neutral and raise the blade---became like second nature

I have used both PTO driven and direct drive pumps and really prefer the direct drive. I am waiting on getting the electric start sorted out on my 22 and then I think I will put a front pump from a D2 onto the 22. The little belt driven pump mounting bracket will fit a small alternator (or at least I think it will). That is the plan, but I have more plans ahead of me than I have years, so I just work my way down the list. Grant.

"Neil" wrote:

Oil Slick got sick of making the "clutch motion" to me every time I looked at him questioning when I got on a machine with a non-live drive CCU and the dang blade or scraper wouldn't lift while I had the clutch disengaged : ) Can't guarantee that it won't happen again either with my bad memory! : )

Neil,
I must admit that it took some getting used to for me, but I seemed to get the hang of it.
Ray