Well, I'll build the puller and see if I can get the hub off the bad side so I can identify the cylinder. After doing the repairs how do I press the hub back on? As I stated earlier my biggest jack is only 20 ton. As I recall Cat stated it requires 40 tons to re-seat the hubs. I'm not familiar with a hollow ram system but will try to look said item up on the internet. I'm not sure I would want to invest a bunch of my money and I'm uncertain how much the group is willing to spend on tools to do a one-time job.

Thanks for all the reply's/advice. Will welcome any further information on the subject.

"D. wrote:

Well, I'll build the puller and see if I can get the hub off the bad side so I can identify the cylinder. After doing the repairs how do I press the hub back on? As I stated earlier my biggest jack is only 20 ton. As I recall Cat stated it requires 40 tons to re-seat the hubs. I'm not familiar with a hollow ram system but will try to look said item up on the internet. I'm not sure I would want to invest a bunch of my money and I'm uncertain how much the group is willing to spend on tools to do a one-time job.

Thanks for all the reply's/advice. Will welcome any further information on the subject.

See if the Cat dealer rents tools or have their mac-a-nic stop by and do it's going to c$$t but it has to be cheaper than the one off tool.

Hi Team,
from several of my SRB's and Spec Book the tonnages for grader hubs of the type you have range from 25 to 30 tons.

At The Dealer we used 25 tons for working machines with good condition and with dry surfaces on the tapers.

If the tapers we a bit fretted we would lap the hub to the axle with some fine valve grinding/lapping paste then install after ensuring that the hub bore and axle taper were bone dry of any oily residue or else the hub can loosen on the taper in service.

You could use your 20 ton press arrangement with a warmed up hub--if we had time sometimes in the field we would just lay the hub out in the warm sun for a while--this would expand the hub bore a little bit and have the effect of a few more tons when the hub cooled at your 20 tons press force.

Some times we found the axle hub nut threads a bit damaged and so we erred on the low side of spec. or down to 20-22 tons to save changing an axle in the field or save the client a dollar or two--done at his risk of course.

When removing the hub always ensure your adapter on the axle threads exerts its force on the axle end and or shoulder as the axle nut threads can be stripped off the axle end if due care is not exercised.
Often with a properly installed Cat hammering adapter a few good hits with a sledge with the opposite wheel in the air, the hubs would release. The counter weighted hubs on later No 12's at higher tonnage usually needed the pressing gear.

For a non working or lightly worked machine with good tapers and heated hub at 20 tons you should be good to go.
Torque for the axle nut is shown as 400-450 lb/ft.
Do the nut to torque quickly and give the hub a few quilts with a sledge hammer and re-torque, if the nut is still tight the hub is well seated on the taper.
.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

That’s good information!

I’ve heard of using that technique to loosen stuck adjustable rear wheels on agricultural tractors but never thought about it working on these tapered spindles.

What size sledge did you typically use to do this with?

I had one of the cat presses at my county shop. It was also needed to tear into he finals on early 8s. It was still there but never used in years when I got my 12. I told the current superintendent ,I wanted it and not salvage it. A-Hole sold it for scrap. He said it had a leaky pump and cylinder. Bad,, I hired that guy when he was a dumb kid. He is still dumb.

Hi CCJ,
typically we used 8 or 10lb sledges--choice being the task at hand and the ability of the user--some of us smaller/lighter people could get a harder hit than heavier people by technique using the same weight sledge.

oldbeek,
YEP, came across some of those brain dead types too who threw out older very adaptable and not replaceable tooling, gauges, books, etc. when they got into power, even after having used it themselves--beyond comprehensible belief--now Dealers tell you they no longer have such and such tooling so we cannot help--maybe a ploy to get out of working on older equipment--now they also say we have no one with that experience left--sorry, get off soap box Eddie.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

Just a suggestion .
Here in Australia a lot of places offer stainless steel sleeving for master cylinder , wheel cylinders etc .
Sleeving is usually cheaper than new ones . plus don't pit and give problems .

Here’s the fixture I used with two jacks.

I had a tractor drawbar through it on edge for two hydraulic jacks to bear on. It’ll take some blocks and or help to get it all set and get the jacks tight but then it was completely stable. Jack bases were against grader hub and once I got it tight I stood well away to the side to put the full pressure on.

From bottom of nut to bottom of the strap is 14-1/4”
Inside width of top is 1-1/2”
Nut fits 212 9Txxxx spindles can’t remember the serial number but it was a ‘53 model I think

It’s yours for cost to ship. Should go in a flat rate box just fine.

6B2715 = Wagner/Lockheed FD7791 but I couldn't find one of them either.

"ccjersey" wrote:

Here’s the fixture I used with two jacks.

I had a tractor drawbar through it on edge for two hydraulic jacks to bear on. It’ll take some blocks and or help to get it all set and get the jacks tight but then it was completely stable. Jack bases were against grader hub and once I got it tight I stood well away to the side to put the full pressure on.

From bottom of nut to bottom of the strap is 14-1/4”
Inside width of top is 1-1/2”
Nut fits 212 9Txxxx spindles can’t remember the serial number but it was a ‘53 model I think

It’s yours for cost to ship. Should go in a flat rate box just fine.

CCJersey;

It just so happens that the grader in question is a 1953 212 serial # 9T19xx so your offer of the fixture is propitious indeed. If you will send me a PM, if that is possible on this site I'm new and haven't checked everything out yet, I'll send along the $ that you require. If a PM isn't possible I will send my e-mail address so we can work out the details.

Not knowing the exact setup used to press the hubs on I was concerned about putting too much pressure on the threads so hadn't proceeded in that direction. I have a repair manual for a later 112 model and was going to look there for further inspiration.

I'm not a heavy equipment mechanic just a guy who's willing to help where I can. The knowledge and willingness to help from the group here is truly outstanding.


Many thanks to all who have replied.