CCJersey Thanks for the suggestions. I haven't taken it back apart to check where the leak is coming from. I have this motor setting on a stand in the shop with a radiator for cooling so I can run it and make sure it is going to work. It is the normal I have got to let it set or a while to take a break from it. I will check with a dial indicator to see what kind of clearance I have on the main bearing. You mentioned in an earlier post you might have a governor for sale to convert this motor to a dozer style motor. Would you be interested in getting rid of a governor if you have one? Thanks Brian Boaz

Hi Team,
as well as the good advice and data given so far a really simple and often overlooked thing with these non-positive rear main seals is if the engine crankcase breather is restricted/clogged then any piston ring blow by/crankcase pressure, can cause oil to expel from the rear main to crank journal area.

Another thing is the rear main bearing cap is sealed to the cylinder block by two string packings, one either side of the cap--they sit down in a drilling that extends over both the bearing cap/block joint vertical gap.
They have to be tamped into the drilling in a zigzag fashion very tightly with a suitable sized round punch and trimmed off slightly proud to keep a slight compressing pressure on them, but, not so much as to interfere with the pan gasket sealing properly.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

I should have several governors for parts and at least one that’s been running within the last 10 years.

I have a 9U with a bad engine and my replacement out of the shed won’t run either. So I’ve decided to install one that we had overhauled about 40 years ago and made into a stationary power unit with a 1000 rpm pto shaft. Used to blow silage with it but the cows are gone and no silage being made anymore. It’s governor seemed to be pretty responsive. When a big wad of silage would drop into the blower it would open up and engine would make a BLAAAH for a second until it cleared out. Then it would go back to its normal muttering straight pipe noise. I sort of hate to disassemble it but I really have no use for it as a power unit. I was told it was an industrial engine out of a crane or dragline, but I recently looked at its serial number and it’s from a 9U so no oil pumps to swap etc.

We will need to check the drive gear tooth count, gasket etc between the DW10 engine governor drive and the 9U’s so I know what you’ll need. Sorry but I don’t have any parts books at all. I need to start rebuilding my library after a fire this summer.

ccjersey I do not have a parts manual for a DW10 but my engine manual for the D318 shows both the DW10 and the 9U governor. They are both the same except for how the internal linkage applies pressure to the large and small governor springs and how the internal linkage is transferred to either a foot pedal (DW10) or hand linkage (9U). The bolts, gaskets, and housings are the same. There are 6 bolts which hold the governor to the injector pump and a pin or bolts which attaches the linkage inside to the rack gear in the injector pump. There is a 24 tooth gear inside the governor which runs against a 40 tooth gear on the injection pump.

O.M. This 1V2490 definitely had a dry clutch. There are no means to transfer oil from the engine to what would have been an oil clutch. I have the oil pan ready to come off again to see if I can find the source of the leak. I think it is coming from the gasket between the oil pan and the block. There is too much oil for it to be coming out of the rear main.

In an unrelated subject, and not to take anything away from your site on starter conversions, I read there were some questions about the measurements for the placement of the hole in the clutch housing of the D6. I used the measurements in boring the clutch housing for this motor and they were correct. I used a DEH with the end cut off to transfer the hole placement along with the centering of the hole on a milling machine. I also made a jig out of the DEH so it would bolt the mounting bolts of the clutch housing after the angle support bracket was removed. It will bolt to the clutch housing on or off the machine. There is also a plug (not pictured) used to center punch the center of the hole for a hole saw. I thought someone might like to use this jig if they plan on converting a D-6 to an electric start.

What locating dimensions did you use? Turns out there is a difference between tractors/vehicles and Industrial Engines (which have four bolts per side clutch housing)

I used the 2.786 and 3 5/16 as an initial lay out but I think I moved my DEH with the nose cut off about a 1/8 on an inch to the outside of the housing for a little more clearance which would compensate for your 3 3/4 inch hole and wiggle room. The key to my placement was using the DEH with the nose cut off and only drilling one hole to be able to check fit before drilling the other two holes for the DEH.

Got my 1V1 - 1V3033 manual and as we suspected, no oil clutch.

yes you are right. The oil leak was coming from the rear main bearing. Rolled it out and the reverse spiral was full of crud which I think would not move any oil back to the cut out area in the bearing so it would drain back into the oil pan. I haven't tested it yet but I hope that cured the problem.

Before I even think about transplanting this motor into my 5R D6 I need to get this motor running and not leaking oil out the rear main bearing. I cleaned up the governor and put it back together so now I have the motor where it will idle and respond to throttle control. But it is still leaking out the rear main bearing. As ccjersey suggested, I put a dial indicator on the flywheel and with a bar I was able to move the flywheel .025" up and down. This tells me the bearings are worn way out of specifications. I ordered bearings from OFFROAD EQUIPMENT. This motor being a 1V2490, and not having a DW10 manual, I assumed this was an early D318, so I ordered bearing out of the 9U1 to 9U13262 Parts book, specifically the 9U1 to 9U2847 inclusive page of the parts book. Front bearing 4F 1724, intermediate bearings (4 each) 4F1725, thrust bearing 4F1726, and rear bearing 4F1727 giving me a complete set of main bearings. Motor book recommends replacing the complete set if the bearings are worn. The rear bearing measures 3.520”. What I received was a complete set of bearings (MIBA Bearings), all being .030 oversized. They measure 3.470” ID. Am I correct in thinking Standard bearings should measure 3.493” ID

The D318 Motor Reference Book says the bearing clearance for Aluminum bearings is .0055 to .0085 with a Maximum Permissible Journal Wear of .007. I have only taken the rear bearing out and have measured the Journal as 3.497 as near as I can tell meaning it is well within the maximum journal wear.

Why can’t I bore this bearing to 3.492”which would give me the .005 clearance on my 3.497 journal, measuring each journal and machine the bearings to the .005 clearance for each position. I really don’t want to go through sending these bearings back and reordering standard bearings. Thoughts????? Is this totally out to lunch or will it work. As with many projects, this thing started out as a low budget project but now I've got too much in it to quit.

For 1V2490
Front bearing assy 7F9030
(4) 7F9031
Thrust 7F9032
Rear 7F9033