I don't expect this to be a bolt for bolt swap. There are going to be issues with things like the throttle linkage, air cleaner, exhaust and the intake manifolds. The pride in which each issue is handled to keep it from being a cobbled up mess will be seen in the final product. The challenge is to make the swap and have the final product look like it is suppose to be that way. That's what makes something like this fun. Pictures will be worth a thousand words. bboaz

brian, what other 9u parts do you need? i might have a dash and an air cleaner, i have the flywheel housing, i'm missing the fibre links for the clutch because an employee of mine needed them for his 9u,

I need the flywheel housing more than the clutch. I have the clutch in the 5R and it is complete. I think these two parts, the flywheel and the flywheel housing, will get me started for now and I will eventually need an air cleaner but there is a dozer salvage yard about 40 miles from me and I can check with them for some of the little stuff. If I use the 5R hood and dash they will match. I'll just have to see how they fit once the motor is in place and new holes cut for the exhaust and air cleaner.

The flywheel housing with the flywheel inside the housing would strap to a pallet and become a compact stackable bundle. I have a housing and a flywheel that is being used on a motor I am currently rebuilding that I can put on a pallet and get a weight and size for a freight quote. I will get back to you with some pictures and the weight and size. This is going to be a heavy shipment so freight might become an issue. I called the salvage yard to price the housing and flywheel. I really doubt he is going to be less than what freight will be. I will get back to you.

Weighed my housing and flywheel on a pallet. Pallet can be 38 inches long, 24 inches wide and 16 inches tall including the height of the pallet. All together it weighed 400 pounds. Salvage wants $500 for the flywheel and housing. I have request out for Fastenal. Waiting for a reply from them.

The best freight quote I can find is $478 from UPS Ground. I think I better just go get the one in the salvage yard. For $22 difference it would just be too much work. Thanks for the offer but it is just not cost effective. Fastenal doesn't do international shipping. We are just too far apart. Thanks Brian Boaz

hey, no worries, offer is still good if the wreckers doesn't turn out.

I finished putting the 1V2490 Motor together. Got a dry clutch housing and flywheel from Zimmerman in Versailles and everything fit together including a pony motor, and bored the clutch housing for an electric start. The governor is going to have to be changed because it is not controlling the engine speed. Started it with the pony and bleed the injectors and the main started running wide open. Stuffed a rag in the intake and it kept running but at least not wide open. Finally pulled the cover off the injector pump and pushed the rack to the no fuel position to kill the motor. This thing is setting on a stand with a radiator on the front for cooling so it was a real crisis really fast. All this happened in a matter of a couple of minutes.

The problem is, I have oil running out of the rear main. Somewhere I have read the DW10 motor shared crankcase oil with an oil clutch. I don't know what this motor had for a clutch, but I got almost a gallon of oil in a very short time and as O.M. stated earlier his parts book may not have covered a high enough s/n to show an oil clutch.


[QUOTE from O.M. earlier in this post "Early 9U and DW10 have the same crankshaft, engine block, oil pan and three section oil pump. Flywheels and clutch housings should interchange. I don't believe the DW10 was oil clutch, used a foot operated dry clutch similar to graders. According to my 1V1-up Parts Book which may not cover a high enough s/n to show an oil clutch.
Always a challenge to play mix and match."

MY 1V1-up parts book shows dry foot clutch effective 1V2306 -up (production ended 1V3033)
If it had an oil clutch it would have these features.
Would also have provision for oil return from clutch housing to engine oil pan.

O.M. Thanks for the information. If production of the dry clutch ended at 1V3033 and the serial number of this motor is 1V2490 that says maybe it did have an oil clutch. I got this motor as a basket case and there was no flywheel and the clutch housing on it was one off an oil clutch dozer used only as a means to support the engine standing on end. I have no DW 10 parts other than an oil pan and an intake manifold. I will look at the oil pan again and see if it had a connection for a return line from a clutch housing as shown in your one attachment. From what I see in Figure 8 of the attachments the oil entered the clutch through holes drilled in the rear of crankshaft. If that is the case there should be holes in the center of this crankshaft basically in the area where a pilot bearing would be to support the front part of an input shaft for a transmission. That would cause the oil to be delivered to the inside of the flywheel, not behind the flywheel where the leak is.

My oil leak seems to be coming from the rear main bearing. The oil is running down between the flange on the rear of the oil pan and the clutch housing. The crankshaft was in this motor when I got it so I have no idea what the rear main bearing looks like. I didn't take it apart. The rear main bearing may be worn out causing it to leak. It is time to take things apart and see what is going on. Thanks again for the information. bboaz

The wording "effective with 1V2306-up" means the latest version (of the dry clutch) is continued. We just don't know if that's to the end of production. To me it seems the dry clutch was used throughout the series. Got a later parts book 1V1-3033 coming but it will be awhile.

Your description of where the oil is leaking makes it seem the leak is between oil pan rear flange and flywheel housing shouldn’t there be a gasket preventing that? I can’t remember how the oil pan seals at the rear main bearing cap but I think the cap should have an oil return hole in it to return oil from the reverse thread area of the crankshaft/bearing to the inside of the oil pan rear auxiliary sump. That hole would be a good thing to inspect even if you have to go back in through the side covers.

I’ve had other engines that the rear main cap had been reduced in height during the process of line boring and the pan could not compress the gasket properly over the cap area. I’ve never heard of a D318 being line bored, but I guess anything’s possible

You should be able to set up a dial indicator on the top of the flywheel or crankshaft flange and then pry up on the crankshaft to determine the clearance in the rear main bearing.