Ok. First i want to say thank you to everyone that's given suggestions for my track tightening project.

Here is the plan. The shields are off. No spacers have been used on the yoke, its original. I will first remove the 4 cap screws that hold the yoke. Then loosen the two track adjusting nut clamp nuts. then back the large track adjusting nut off about 2'' or more depending on how hard it turns.. This nut is slotted on three flats clear into the threads on the adjusting bolt. That should make it turn easier once it is broke loose. I will then get the spacer made, put in with new longer bolts and tighter the track. Does that sound right?

I have company for the Labor Day weekend so I will be entertaining them and wont get back to the D4 until Tuesday something. Thanks again for your valued info that you share... bplunk.

"Dont fuget da neva seeze!!!!!"

i had good luck using ATF mixed with acetone and gave the adjuster nuts a good soak several times a day. then i would warm them just hot to the touch with a propane torch and re apply.

Computer went down and now just got it back from The Geek. Working good.
I got the bolts( removed from the idler yoke. This dozer is 66 years old and bolts/cap screws are hard to get out. I have loosened the adj clamps and been putting loose juice and some heat on the 2 3/4" adj nut. Tried to turn with 24" pipe wrench with 36" cheater and it won't move. WOW!!! I have a cat track wrench bought but won't get until middle of next week if the deal goes thru. In the meantime I am soaking and heating the nuts and hitting with the big hammer once in a while. Wire brushing the threads also. If the nut wont break loose I can pull the idler fwd to tighten tracks and put in a spacer. I won't have any future adj. if I do it that way. That's my last choice. Got a new bottle of Anti Seize. everything gets treated.

Ok will follow up next week.....hopefully with good news. bplunk

remember to loosen the clamp bolt that clamps the yoke to the adjustment nut.

the operators and maint manual I have for this 7U shows two adjusting nut clamp nuts (page 83). They are 1 1/8 inch nuts. I have backed them off and they are on the bolt with about two threads holding them. There is a slot clear across the top of the yoke and I cleaned that out and am soaking it also. The yoke clamp is loose. I can move it back and forth, a small amount when I hit it with a hammer. Maybe try to drive a small chisel in the slot on the yoke to spread it ?? The track adj. nut (2 3/4") is slotted on three of the flats clear down to the threads on the adj rod. It should not be that hard to turn.

Don't use a pipe wrench, that just squeezes the nut together against the bolt, the nut has three slots in it. Drive a chisel in the slots and spray penetrating oil in there. Then take the chisels out and turn nut with an open end wrench.

I see your point on the pipe wrench. I won't have an open end wrench to use until sometime next week. So will keep soaking and spread the nut some for easier penetration of the juice. Will check back in then. Thanks.

Its been a cluster trying to find a wrench. Had one bought and the guy sold it out from under me. I waited a week for the tool and no show. Today I will hit the local machine shop and have one made. The Cat spacers (4) ea...4B 8649 have been ordered and also ordered 8 ea. 5/8'' x 5 1/2" x 18 NF thread bolts for the spacers on the yoke. Its just getting the adj nut backed up and then some assembly and I should be good to go. Need 3.66 inches for spacers to fit. Got a bottle of anti-sieze for all the bolts and nuts when it goes back together. So far about $150 out of pocket plus the cost of making the wrench. I'm good with that.
Ok that's it for now. I do know if you find a track wrench and the price is right BUY IT !!!!!!

on mine the bolt that clamps the yoke to the nut was seized in the yoke. when i backed off the nut is remained clamped until i got the bolt to turn in the yoke. when i got them all freed up everything went fine.