Thanks Old Magnet. I think I will end up getting all the new bearings seals/gaskets as new parts from either Cat or Regal. It looks like Regal has most of what I am looking for or at least they carry it. Now when I speak with them will I ask for the specific Cat part number or the bearing numbers that you are supplying me with? I assume the Cat part #'s and only use the bearing numbers if I find a bearing supply house. I have to find the part number for the gasket for the big final drive housing gasket too. I do have the serviceman's reference book. I want to strike a deal with either CCjersey or antqcatparts from this website on the used hub/sprocket, but I haven't heard back from them. This weekend I am going to go to work cleaning the shop, cleaning the inside of the final cases, and pulling bearings.

Yes, Regal will go by the Cat #.
Correct on the bearing supply house numbers.
Cat has been fairly competitive with bearing prices as they don't control that market......might compare.
Problem is a lot of these bearings are coming from China and some of the fringe brands are pretty bad.

The big case flange gasket is shown in the parts breakdown I posted....6B9590

The 6B9590 upgrades to a 8H2247

Old Magnet- (or anyone else)

I'm having a really tough time removing the inner final drive bearing race. I know you mentioned welding a tab on the race and prying it out. I am really not confident in my welding skills (all I have is a Lincoln arc welder) so I rigged up some extensions on a 5 ton 3-jaw puller. My question is, is it ok to heat that area with torches to get the race moving, or do you think I will mess up the seat? Another possibility would be grinding a slot in the race with my dremel tool. Would this be ok? I may knick the race's seating area doing this? What do you think?

Hi Joel,
Instructions were to weld a heavy bead all around the center of the bearing race after protecting the shaft and case. Not just welding on a tab.
Once the weld is left to cool the race will shrink and should easily pop out of the seat.
Your Lincoln welder should be fine for this........6011 at about 150-175amp with a 5/32 rod is what I use.

There are other techniques.....torch, grinder, air-arc etc. but the weld method works really well and has the minimum risk of buggering up the seat.

This is the tool that Cat listed for the job but I don't think anybody used it.

Old Magnet,

I am finally getting ready to put this thing back together. I bought a used sprocket & hub with an up to spec. fit. I have the bearings coming today.

On the bull gear inner bearing cup and cone, what is the best way to put them in/on? For the cup, do I stick it in the freezer over night, and heat the case to "sweat" it in? How about for the bearing? Does the same thing go for the pinion bearings? Thanks. Joel

Using temperature difference wouldn't hurt, but mostly they just tap in/on with a soft drift. swap sides a lot and just tap it a little at a time so it doesn't bind on you. If they were especially tight, you could try the chilling and heating.

If they're loose with both parts at the same temperature, then you know you have problems ahead of time.

My .02

Thanks, CCJersey.

That's what I'll try, seems like they came off kind of hard, but maybe I'm making it out to be harder than it will be. By the way, I wanted to get those parts from you, but it seemed like it would be too difficult on both of our ends. Maybe in the future. thanks again. Joel

Yes, Mine are out in the mud still. We're working through projects to be ready for spring, but haven't gotten to the 9U trackframe yet.

I'm amazed you had trouble finding something locally. I guess the scrap iron market is having that effect.

At the shop we had a cooker like a french fry cooker and it had oil in it and we,d heat the bearings in it and then install them after they got good and hot and they,d slip right on.

SJ,

That sounds like a good setup for installing bearings. I'll carefully try to drive them on.

CC- I found the sprocket and hub at a dealer about 100 miles from here. I'm embarassed to say what I paid, as the sprocket needs to be rerimmed, and the dealer's customer relation skills were below nonexistant. He must know he has the 9u market cornered in our area!