One last try here. I have read Old Magnet's attachment and my Serviceman's Reference book closely now. Correct me if I'm wrong.

1. Cement sprocket side face of inner and outer bellows cork gasket to the bellows assembly on the 3 degree 33' contour.
2. Do not cement the back side cork (on inner bellows) to the bellows assy.
3. Cement the back side cork (on inner bellows) to the spacer.
4. Do not cement the back side cork-outwardly facing the machine (on outer bellows) to the bellows assy.
5. Cement the back side cork-outwardly facing machine to the retainer assy.
6. Lube face of metal washer and contact cork of bellows. (what to use here?-- regular grease?)
Wow this is confusing, but I think I got it.

I think you were closer the first time:)

Cement both sides of the 6B6026 gaskets (now 7F5015)

Outer seal is doweled and cemented to the adjusting nut 3F1959

Inner seal is doweled and cemented to the extension (spacer) 7B7275

Cement cork seal 6B330 to the 3B3383 (bellows seal)

Grease between 6B330 and the 1A4088 washer
I believe moly grease was recommended in the former posts

I got it all back together, except for getting the track reconnected. Does anyone have part numbers for whatever I need for a master pin/bushing. It still has regular D6 9U chains/pins/bushings. Thanks.

Is the master pin the taper plug retainer type?

Honestly, Old Magnet, I don't know what type it is. It was welded in, so I just ground off the weld on both sides, heated it up and drove it out. It does seem to have a small dimple or hole in each side if that helps.

If its sealed type track:
Bushing 2A3241
Pin 8M7456
Spacer 8M7455 (2)
Seal washers 8M7454 (4)

If its non-sealed
Bushing 2A3241
Pin 8M7456
Collar 4B5954 (2)

Old Magnet,

As you know I am working on side #2. I pulled the whole final on that side, and am taking to my cousin who has sprocket pulling equipment, heavy presses, etc.

On the bull gear inner bearing and race. If you remember, I replaced those on the first side of the machine. I notice the inner race is again in bad shape on this #2 side. I can't see any visible damage/wear to the bearing itself, but the race again has damage marks in it. They look almost like metal is flaked off in streaks that go perpendicular to the race itself. I don't have pictures right now. I am just wondering what caused this same type of wear on both sides. Do you think its just the dirt and grime that got in there, or do you think the outer bearing wasn't tight enough? Maybe it was just old bearings (they are Bower however). I just don't want it to happen again.
Is it absolutely essential to change these out at this point? I'm, of course, looking to keep costs down. Thanks for your knowledge.

Could be several things but I would suspect:
1. The race was not changed during a previous overhaul (Bower not original) and some one else may have tried to save a buck.
2. Same problem with adjustment that allows misalignment/binding of the bearing and race.

Would suggest changing both the bearing and race so that they are matched otherwise you run the risk of a recurring problem. Not likely dirt in there, usually that leaves a pitted or sand blasted looking surface.

Kind of the wrong hobby if your looking to save money;)
Trips to the Cat store usually run $300 - $400 per lunch bag full.

Done right, it should last a very long time.

My experience is that it is a very small lunch bag also.

And quite often working on these old critters, take the bag of money AND a lunch when you go visit the dealer. Sometimes it takes a while to track some of the bits down but it generally goes better it you offer the parts guy some of your wife's home made cookies/ cake or pie