Here are a few photos of what I am using to bleed my fuel system. Try the link below. This is a modification of what Old Magnet and CCJERSEY have discussed in prior posts. It is just a fernco type rubber endcap. The hose clamp is not necessary due to the tight fit of the cap. Make sure you measure for fit. The ID on the caps vary.

I have only HAD to bleed it once and did it per the manual becuase I ran my D42T out of fuel while idling...I hate to start the starting engine just to bleed it if necessary again or for when I change the fuel filters coming up here in a few weeks. This works pretty easily and seemed effective the two times I have used it with a cigarette lighter powered compressor...except for below question...She starts and runs fine so I am waiting until the work I have left to do is done before I change out the fuel filters.

I will be using my pressure cap again soon because the needle vent with the dial on the front of the housing did not bleed any fuel when opened. Two of the four injectors did push some air, two did not. The vent needle on the side of the housing bled fuel too that went from a drip to a drizzle with no air noticable.

My question is, has anyone had that dial needle vent stay dry and not appearing to push air either while bleeding the system under air pressure or under the pump action while the main is turning. No bubbles or anything. I assume fuel should bleed outside of dial vent needle on the front of the housing where it is visible.

Thanks, as always-
bernie

http\\ www.picturetrail.com/uid6748227

My question is, has anyone had that dial needle vent stay dry and not appearing to push air either while bleeding the system under air pressure or under the pump action while the main is turning. No bubbles or anything.

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Bernie,

My D2 is guilty as charged above. But it's ciurrently bedded down for winter.

Alan

If you are not able to bleed air & fuel from the tower vent it is probably clogged.
Check to see that vent line is clear.
The valve assembly can be removed for cleaning and to check that passage is clear.
Be sure to use a tubing flare nut type wrench to grip the valve body so's to lessen the possibility of buggering it up. See pics.

on d7 or d8 filler caps it is possible to drill out the vent hole and tap for a 1/8 in. air filler valve for a air tank
take the fuel cap apart to keep filter mesh clean when drilling.tap , screw in filler valve, use a clip on air filler and use low pressure regulated air. after bleeding procedure is done take out schrader valve out of the fitting leave the filler cap off and you are good to go

bernie;467 wrote:

Here are a few photos of what I am using to bleed my fuel system. Try the link below. This is a modification of what Old Magnet and CCJERSEY have discussed in prior posts. It is just a fernco type rubber endcap. The hose clamp is not necessary due to the tight fit of the cap. Make sure you measure for fit. The ID on the caps vary.

I have only HAD to bleed it once and did it per the manual becuase I ran my D42T out of fuel while idling...I hate to start the starting engine just to bleed it if necessary again or for when I change the fuel filters coming up here in a few weeks. This works pretty easily and seemed effective the two times I have used it with a cigarette lighter powered compressor...except for below question...She starts and runs fine so I am waiting until the work I have left to do is done before I change out the fuel filters.

I will be using my pressure cap again soon because the needle vent with the dial on the front of the housing did not bleed any fuel when opened. Two of the four injectors did push some air, two did not. The vent needle on the side of the housing bled fuel too that went from a drip to a drizzle with no air noticable.

My question is, has anyone had that dial needle vent stay dry and not appearing to push air either while bleeding the system under air pressure or under the pump action while the main is turning. No bubbles or anything. I assume fuel should bleed outside of dial vent needle on the front of the housing where it is visible.

Thanks, as always-
bernie

Bernie to save time bleeding after a filter change after you wash the housing out then install new clean fuel up to near the top before setting the elements down in then the system won,t have to pump it full & take all that time. No worry about fuel not being filered as it has to go through the elements before going to the pumps themselves.We always did that at the shop to save time & wear & tear on the starting engine.Later D.I. tractors has the hand priming pump on them.