Recently I found Old Magnets wonderful thread on the hitch he made for his D4 (on the archives, don't ask me how I stumbled onto it).

I would love to see what folk have done for the family of machines that include the D2 . I have one picture to get things started, I found this on the Australian ebay site I think.

So any pictures or experiences (or links to same) would be great to see.

Cheers - Foster

That is an interesting three point hitch. I have a D2 and it would be handy to have that arrangement for agricultural purposes. Would be interesting to see photos of what others have. GWH

There was one D2 3pt hitch on EBay e few years ago. Was pricey though as I was tempted, yeah like I really need one.

I'm in the process of selling my property and may sell the D2. Anybody maybe interested? I can send pictures.

Alan Letts
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location western Cincinnati. Close to Ohio River.

The D2, 22 and others are a real challenge to make work. Because of the overhanging seat true parallel 3-pt linkage is so far back that any heavy implement will just about cause them to do a wheelie:) The best compromise is to have a hydraulic cylinder top link so that you can adjust for parallel motion with offset pivot points. Heres a couple pics to add to the assortment of attempts.

OM, you make a good point about the seat overhang. Not a good feature for a 3-point hitch. GWH

Old Magnet

I've been looking at you very nice set-up and wondering what thickness of plate you used for the main elements, looks like 3/4" to me but I'd love to know for sure . . . and why you chose it ??.

If doing a similar exercise for a D2 what plate thickness would you think you would start with ??

Many thanks - Foster

Hi NZCat,
Your observation is correct, most the main elements are 3/4 plate. The tie bar underneath is 1" stock as well as the lower arms. It's not really about strength,.......it's about warpage control when fabricating welded sections. That and I tend to overbuild everything learned from true field applications. The extra thickness is also handy as every joint is bushed with either drill bushings or spring type split bushings. If I was doing the D2 I would probably make due with 1/2 in, maybe with gussets or a surface grind to get flat up against the case with the rest made up of 1/2 in and 3/4 where I used 1 in.
Seems like if you lighten up on the material you wind up adding more reinforcement to compensate. It's really a matter of choice.

OM is right on here.

It's very difficult to get a true parallelogram linkage design (implement lifts and lowers in same plane) dictated by the inherent details of the rear of the 22, D2 and D4 Cats with the seat so far back.

My hitch that I shopbuilt for my 22 twenty-five years ago works wonderful for tool bar usage, a furrower, or a coil shank chisel, but try to lift a heavy 3-point offset disk and the equilizer spring rears the tractor back on its ass. - Richard

PS Yes, it's a 22, not a D2. I fabricated the seatback tank as a hydraulic resorvoir.

Using a 3-point disk furrower. - Richard

Hello Richard

Thanks for posting these, I saw then over on OM's old thread too, and hoped you might comment. How critical is the geometry ?? I've been playing with models and some of the wheel tractors here, and it seems that as long as the top link can be set to suit the implement in the right "atitude" at its working depth, it doesn't matter too much.

As I'm thinking in terms of rear "toolbar" type applications I think a short top link will probably suffice.

I really like the simplicity of your unit, but haven't been able to see from any of the photos how it attached at the top of the inner frame, are there any "extentions" to catch the top of the rear castings ie right under the seat ??

Cheers - Foster