I'm posting here & couple other sites....
If you'all laugh at me, be gentle....OK??haha

From what I've been able to figure out these injection pumps & injectors/nozzles on these D6 9U 318 engines are somewhat forgiving as to fuel....mostly as long as it's clean.
Anyone tell me what pressure they pop at? Somewhere I got the idea that it's somewhere down around 1100-1200-1300PSI????

Reason I ask is I been trying to figure out how to maybe run this thing on WVO (waste veg. oil). I currently am running couple my 7.3 trucks on straight WVO for over 4yr with no problems. No problems after I got heated fuel tank, fuel lines & filters. And I run diesel in one tank, WVO in other.
I start & run on diesel till hot & kill them on diesel after 2-3 miles.

Biggest problem I see is trying to get the WVO as hot as possible before the lift pump. I been looking and am trying to figure out where & how to tap into coolant for good flow to circulate hot coolant thru hoses & a heat exchanger etc to warm fuel tank, lines, filters, & fuel (WVO) before the lift pump.

I want to look closer, but am hoping that I can tap in somewhere around the thermostats & out, then back into the drainplug on side of block. Or other way round.
Wherever coolant source is got from it needs to be as hot as possible.
If my gauge has been correct in past, I've never seen it over 140deg F, but am gonna ck it.

I already got it figured out where & how to easily mount another 35 gal tank for WVO on this D6.

If I figure out how to heat the oil some other way (electrical maybe) on this other R945B Liebherr Ex with this aircooled Dietz engine, I'll run WVO in it too!

Anyway, any tips, ideas, or whatever will be greatly appreciated. Any tip on where to tap in for coolant source & circulation?
Or even any thoughts if you'all think I'm stupid & headed for trouble....I'm listening.
Thanks
James

Maximum breaking pressure on the D318 injection capsules is 800 psig.
There is a flanged connection at the thermostat housing and a pipe plug in the radiator return pipe that can be used for water heating. This was normally used for auxiliary engine cooling system heating and/or high temperature shut down.

Some of the older engines with the flat seat injectors could even burn crude oil but I don't think the later ones were quite that forgiving.

James, Just a thought for heating the Fuel. Use the main engine exhaust heat by putting several turns of copper tubing around the manifold and fill with water and use a small pump to circulate to the fuel area. You would have to play with amount of coupling needed to couple heat to your Alt fuel line/source. Could get to be a Rube Goldburg arrangement though. A similiar arrangement would work on the Air cooled Duetz engine Also. Some of you guys might remember the model A ford exhaust heater also. The radiator fan pushed air thru the tube on the manifold that was put thru the firewall for car heat. Boy would the safety people have a field day with that now days. Of course you had plenty of air comming in on the bodies in those days. Just a not on cats view of Biofuel use on newer engines. Last year a cat rep for motorhomes said that you could use it but they wouldnt reccommend it and if you had a engine failure or problem they would probably walk away from it. Their problem is that they see too many different people making the Biofuels with not a lot of standards or enforcement. They want specific standards that all will have to comply with and that they can run longivity tests on. Good luck on your project and let us know how it works out. John D

I been so busy last few days I nearly haven't had time to respond.
I been looking & think I found those coolant fittings OM mentioned....gonna keep thinking on all this "how to do it" stuff. Probably take me a couple weeks to rig up everything, but I'm sure it can be done.

Did some looking & scheming yesterday on all this stuff.
The aircooled Dietz has alternator, so have some glowplug heat fabrication oilheater possibility there. Also the Exhaust heat before the turbo is running about450-550 degF....heat exchanger building is possibility.

Didn't get chance to ck the coolant, coolant guage, or Exhaust temps on the 9U yesterday with my raygun.

If I can warm the oil up in my extra fuel tank enough to flow, then I just need to heat it the rest way on up to as hot as possible before it goes into the lift pump, and/or injector pump.
That's the main thing I had to get worked out & designed to make things happen right on my 7.3's.
If it can get to 150-180deg F before the lift or injection pump on my 7.3's, then they run just super great & powerful.
James

Well Sat. & yesterday I finally got round to working & heating up my 9U so I could check the coolant temp gauge & compare it with my handy-dandy Buck Rodgers raygun.
Apparently the gauge is pretty close to right. Sat was about 70deg ambient outside, the gauge never showed over 120-125deg. Raygun showed about the same at the sending unit...120-130deg. Thermostat housing showed about 130-140 max, upper Rad tank about 110, rest of places here & there from 90-110, even oil gallery tube.
I haven't cked yet if thermostat is working, or even there.
What temp thermostats usually is run in these old 9U, & what temp. thermostats might be available?

Till couple months ago the radiator fanbelt was really loose.....turned everything & cooled enough to get the gauge up to but not over 140deg. I tightened & adj. the belt & now it really pulls air thru. Probably cools better too now.
BTW, for future info, can these fan blades be turned round for push fan, or does the blade have to be specifically designed for reversing? And how would I tell what I have?
Actually, it doesn't look to be the easiest thing to do....reversing, or just plain changing out.

Oil press gauge shows about 60psi hot idling & drops to about 50-55 psi working....IIRC this is a bit higher than the manual calls for.

If I get time today I was thinking about sticking some cardboard over the radiator to see if things would heat up a bit more...just to check.
I should have checked coolant flow in radiator tank to see if thermostat was opening, or was open....but I didn't.

I assume these 318 engines are pretty well like other diesels? To a point it's, "Got to get that iron hot" for best performance???

I think I got things figured out on the aircooled Dietz engine. Like I said, the exhaust temp before turbo is about 450-550 deg, & really close after the turbo outlet it's 250-300. I think I can build a heat exchanger to heat my WVO
Actually, the WVO needs to be as hot as possible for any diesel engine. Not only to get a thinner viscosity for lift pump, injection pump, & injectors to perform, but a hotter engine helps to not coke things up so bad....rings, valves, etc.

Anybody got any input, I'm listening!

When I get closer to doing these WVO projects on these 2 machines, I''l try to post some photos along....if I can figure out how to run a camera, puter, keyboard, & mouses all at the same time.....

Hi ttman4,
The temperature regulators (two of them) should begin opening at 166-170 deg. F. and be fully open at 183 deg. F. and yes the diesel needs the heat to run right.

Reversing the standard fan blade does not work. You would have to get the blower fan unit if you want to reverse normal air direction flow or I believe you can still get the Huber (reversible) fan that allows individual fan blade direction change without dismantling anything.

Normal operating oil pressure is about 30 psi so yours is exceptionally high or gage is faulty.

Be interesting to see how your WVO project evolves.

Well I'm tearing'er up & putting'er back together.
Finally got round to checking my coolant temp/gauge etc. Put a tarp over the radiator & ran for a while till temps came on up. Per my Buck Rodgers Ray gun, the hottest I could find was about 180 degF midway on head & 1 spot on radiator tank & thermostat housing, couple spots about 175 & less other places.
Gauge read about 5-10 deg less all way up than ray gun.

However, as the temps came up, the oil pressure dropped. At hottest temp oil was down to about 40-45 at high idle, & down to about 35-40 when I "goosed it"
After I got it at higher temp the coolant started moving in radiator faster & faster....like thermostats might be opening.

Anyway, pulled thermostats housing & looked 'em over. One just turns freely & kinda moves round, other has spring resistance when I try to turn with screwdriver.
Boy I had heck getting to that bottom drain plug & getting it out, one on the lower rad, up-pipe. Big hammers, little hammers, big & little everything! & lots of bad words! Lots of blood too!
The other drain a little lower worked great....everything up there is out'a sight & tight with the hardniose & hyd lines.
I still haven't found that "2nd" grease fitting to the u-joints that run hyd pump...belly pan in way. & it looks like it weighs at least 40-50,000#

Came home to get my slide hammer puller....I think I can pull thermostat thingie with that....very carefully. Going to pull them & check them etc.
Are they adjustable? The screwdriver screw in middle is why I ask.
Need to look in my book too....that'd probably tell me.

Anyway, on down hill side of setting up my WVO setup now. Get all this coolant heated up more, lines run, more filters, etc.
Am taking pics, but will have to still learn how to post them.

Another thing, if I wanted the fuel press gauge back on "dash" where I could watch it as I go, I assume I'd have to plumb tube back to where gauge would be mounted....in a good safe spot. & plumb good enough to not leak & no air?
I would think that under load the gauge would read different than just low or hi idle?
Kinda hard to see it mounted on filter housing when I'm "driving".
Oh well, maybe another project for rainy day down the road.
James