can you try to pull it with another tractor? try pulling it in neutral. you should be able to get an idea of how stiff the tracks are just by prying up or jacking up on the top side?

If the brake band is rusted to drum another tractor pulling may not free it up, been there done that. I knew it needed work just had not got to it, and then it would not roll. So I pulled fuel tank. Then very easy to loosen the band.

As far as tracks I had new set with several links that did not flex. Got it so 2 links sat in diesel for 3 months. They then moved with big hammer. But never moved on there own. Pulled both tracks off and sent to the dealer who pushed all the bushings out polished and put them back. After that had old times say park it in water and rust will release.

The master link can be hammered apart. But you need a 10 or bigger hammer. You need to hit like you really mean it. Had the local hammer man take out a regular pin by mistake with only 3 or 4 swings, in the getting the new tracks right. But he grew up splitting limestone into flagstones with a 12 pound hammer.

Much nicer to start with new stuck undercarriage than completely warn but take lots of sweat to get it going.

Remove the covers off the back of the tractor to access the brake bands, take bar and a short, handled sledge and give the bands a good hit, they are probably froze the drum from sitting, seen it happen before.

That was one of the things I checked besides the fluids. The parking brake lever was off when I tried to move the tractor. I just got the "well-used" manual in the mail today so I'll take a gander at it to see how the brakes are adjusted.

Until I had the band rust to the drum in about 6 months time it seemed impossible it could keep everything from moving. As stated earlier dragging it 3 or 4 feet convinced me it had to be something worse. I had it sitting on level ground so don't believe I would of set the brake, but its been to years.

The tractor was sitting level on crushed rock so there really was no need for the seller to set the brake. I recently learned that these replacement tracks were supposedly stiff when the seller got them some years ago and that he didn't run the tractor all that much so it maybe an ongoing problem.

You could desajusted the track and loosed the lock nut and bolt adjusting brake band under brake housing, desangaged the master cluch lever
and pull back the 2 stering cluch lever,,desangaged the transmission lever and try to move the machine on on left side and try right side

Hi Rickoshay, I guess I have tried to help too many people who have no clue about bulldozers. I'm sorry I assumed your knowledge and ability was less than it is. Let start over. It would help to know what is attached to the rear of the tractor (If anything).
I'm not sure about new members but I think after a certain number of posts you can post pictures.
If you do buy that D6B I'll make you a deal on that Service Manual.
Craig
 

seiscat sometimes a reminder to check the simple things is helpful. as even experienced people make mistakes. on one occasion the old ute wouldn't start after giving it a service, no one thought to check the air filter so we got the auto club breakdown service out to look at it. took the mechanic 2 minutes to diagnose and fix the problem. mum had distracted the old man while he was refitting the air filter and he put it in upside down.

i nearly got badly burned from petrol and a wood heater. we had used fuel to get the heater to light, another bloke that was with us decided to shift the fuel drum unknown to him it wasn't capped properly (now everyone knows to cap them properly don't they) he didn't check. he assumed it was.

the fuel sloshed and the vapour ignited just as i walked past he got a burn on his wrist and I got burned on my shoulder and arm thankfully i was wearing drill cotton work shirt.

long story short dont assume it makes an ass of u & me.

rax200(darryl) has posted a sticky about posting pictures have a read of that. it on the main discussion page at the top.

a good penertrant can be made using diesel and a light engine or hydrualic oil fill a squirt bottle or oil can and apply liberally. there is also a product called penetrene available at most good part stores and industrial suppliers in litre, 5 litre or 20 litres.